Edelrid OHM

got mine headed my way!!!!

for a 190lb climber with a 110lb wife.....i think I'm gonna like it.

I asked one gar head and he said no, then i went back on and asked again. $130 to my door....

doligo wrote: Depends on what your definition of "traditional" climbing is. For some people, it's strictly ground up onsight, for some - climbing on gear. If you adhere to the latter group, i.e. use the term "traditional" for any climb that requires placing gear, but employ sport climbing tactics like working a route, taking multiple whippers, lowering, I don't see any reason for not using OHM for those. Provided you have a great multi-directional first piece.

I'm not following you. Last part yes, but the first part? Are you saying ground up onsight equals no falls? Light belayer doesn't matter? I'm just sorta missing something here.

Thanks!

I'll be interested in hearing how this goes for you who expect to use it regularly. At under 135, I could see packing one of these around, if I ever get more partners to climb with, and get to climb more often! :-(

Can't see buying it just to haul to the gym, but building an anchor at our local rock would be a PITB much of the time, and I really prefer to be able to move around.

Helen

I tried to purchase and no luck...

From BC chat:

It looks like we have sold a handful of those belay devices but were asked to wait for approval to put them up, hopefully we should have them available in the next week or two

drjman wrote:I tried to purchase and no luck... From BC chat: It looks like we have sold a handful of those belay devices but were asked to wait for approval to put them up, hopefully we should have them available in the next week or two

I did the online chat with BC.com with a representative named Matt last night. I told him word on the street was if I gave him the item number he could sell me an Ohm. He said yes and mine shipped last night. $130 w/ free two-day shipping. Perhaps try giving them a ring or chatting with someone else?

Or check with Trey who posted on page two of this thread:

Trey Schanzenbach wrote:Hey guys and gals! Backcountry.com should have the new Edelrid Ohm available sometime in December! If you have any questions feel free to hit me up directly via my contact info below. TREY SCHANZENBACH Customer Account Manager Office: 801-204-4535 tschanzenbach@backcountry.com

Jason Halladay wrote: I did the online chat with BC.com with a representative named Matt last night. I told him word on the street was if I gave him the item number he could sell me an Ohm. He said yes and mine shipped last night. $130 w/ free two-day shipping. Perhaps try giving them a ring or chatting with someone else? Or check with Trey who posted on page two of this thread:

Tried again just now and it worked! Thanks!

Took me three tries yesterday and two more this morning.

Had the opportunity to use one a week ago at the gym when belaying a pretty big guy. Was really pretty easy to use, not totally invisible but not a problem.

It didn't take the whole fall to be sure- I still would take a ride for a foot or two- but I think I would have been in for a very big ride without it.

Do sandbgs still work? Yes. But I do like it better than being anchored.

WRT trad, it's kind of worst-case multidirectional pull. Normally, when the belayer stands back from the wall, the lowest piece will form a triangle, so the force will be up-and-out from the wall. If the belayer stands very, very far back the piece will still only be pulled at a 45 degree angle upwards. With the OHM, because it kind of grabs the rope, it will want to pull straight up, so the piece has to do a full 180.

Patrick Shyvers wrote:Had the opportunity to use one a week ago at the gym when belaying a pretty big guy. Was really pretty easy to use, not totally invisible but not a problem. It didn't take the whole fall to be sure- I still would take a ride for a foot or two- but I think I would have been in for a very big ride without it. Do sandbgs still work? Yes. But I do like it better than being anchored. WRT trad, it's kind of worst-case multidirectional pull. Normally, when the belayer stands back from the wall, the lowest piece will form a triangle, so the force will be up-and-out from the wall. If the belayer stands very, very far back the piece will still only be pulled at a 45 degree angle upwards. With the OHM, because it kind of grabs the rope, it will want to pull straight up, so the piece has to do a full 180.

On behalf of us noobs, shouldn't a trad belayer be close to the wall? And, then, that would mean you need two pieces, opposed, as said above, for up and downward pull?

OLH

Old lady H wrote: On behalf of us noobs, shouldn't a trad belayer be close to the wall? And, then, that would mean you need two pieces, opposed, as said above, for up and downward pull? OLH

You're far less nooby than I, but yes, that's the general guidance on both counts, especially if your first piece is a nut. One cam is sometimes treated as a "poor-man's multidirectional", because they have the ability to rotate in place.

Of course, your belayer can't always be right next to the wall, and you can't always find two good opposing nut placements.

Not saying the OHM couldn't be used, I just think it would clearly increase the risk of zippering pieces even beyond the worst case without it, because the force will be straight up, instead of angled up. A good multidirectional piece or pair of pieces would be mandatory.

alpinejason wrote:Took me three tries yesterday and two more this morning.

But you finally sent it! Projecting the gear purchase...solid dedication. :-)

Hey All,

Long time poster but I've created a new account for privacy purposes.

I work for BC and am more than happy to get Ohm's shipped/sold out to you all.

Send me a PM if you want one and we can work from there.

I ordered the Ohm from BC on Monday, got it Tuesday and tried it yesterday in the gym. For reference I'm 4'10", 88lbs on a heavy day and my boyfriend is 5'10" and 165lbs.

On the first test fall we were both super impressed. I only went up about 6 inches and gave him kind of a hard catch - something that's never ever happened. There are zero issues with pulling up slack or short roping on account of the device. It's much easier to lower in that I no longer have to crouch down. He projected a different route and took another bigger fall and the catch was great. I can now give him more slack than before, still give soft catches and the best part is neither of us are terrified about the potential falls.

There is a bit of learning related to setting up the Ohm, hanging it on the first draw etc. Also be sure to talk to your gym before using it inside - turns out some insurances aren't letting gyms use the Ohm.

So far we love it!

Alex Grossman wrote:I ordered the Ohm from BC on Monday, got it Tuesday and tried it yesterday in the gym. For reference I'm 4'10", 88lbs on a heavy day and my boyfriend is 5'10" and 165lbs. On the first test fall we were both super impressed. I only went up about 6 inches and gave him kind of a hard catch - something that's never ever happened. There are zero issues with pulling up slack or short roping on account of the device. It's much easier to lower in that I no longer have to crouch down. He projected a different route and took another bigger fall and the catch was great. I can now give him more slack than before, still give soft catches and the best part is neither of us are terrified about the potential falls. There is a bit of learning related to setting up the Ohm, hanging it on the first draw etc. Also be sure to talk to your gym before using it inside - turns out some insurances aren't letting gyms use the Ohm. So far we love it!

Great to hear!

IMO, gyms should jump on this, but what do I know.

OLH

Just like the Gri-Gri is more of an advanced user device, I'm sure this one has its learning curve that not all gym managers are comfortable with.

Patrick Shyvers wrote: You're far less nooby than I, but yes, that's the general guidance on both counts, especially if your first piece is a nut. One cam is sometimes treated as a "poor-man's multidirectional", because they have the ability to rotate in place. Of course, your belayer can't always be right next to the wall, and you can't always find two good opposing nut placements. Not saying the OHM couldn't be used, I just think it would clearly increase the risk of zippering pieces even beyond the worst case without it, because the force will be straight up, instead of angled up. A good multidirectional piece or pair of pieces would be mandatory.

Patrick, you're the first ever to say I'm the experienced one!

Okay, charts, graphs and physics guys! Shouldn't a downward pull on a piece actually be easier to accomplish, than the angle an out from the wall belayer would impart? And less likely to rip? My understanding is that's what we are aiming to avoid by being close to the wall on a lead belay, especially when gear is involved.

All, on the OHM, can a top rope be made to work? I know they say no, but that's never stopped anyone from anything.

Didn't get much sleep again last night. Sorry if I'm being dense/and/or plain old stupid today!

Helen

Theriault wrote: and every time i take a big fall with my girlfriend using the "melon" its always sketchy for her !

Sounds like she needs to work on her technique. One of the best students I ever taught lead belaying to took the class with her husband who had a +100lb difference. She was FANTASTIC, with or without the melon (for lighter people) and always with an ATC. I'd feel more comfortable having her belay me than most people.

Also in the OHM video you can see her jump when she's belaying without it. That much of a weight difference doesn't need a soft catch, the weight difference gives you that naturally. Yeah I understand they are trying to make it look even more dramatic of a difference...

With all that being said I recently showed her video of the OHM and they were super stoked to get one and try it out (especially for sport climbing). For the huge weight difference problem, especially outdoors when you might not be able to anchor or weight down a bag, this is a great product if it works as described.

Old lady H wrote:Shouldn't a downward pull on a piece actually be easier to accomplish, than the angle an out from the wall belayer would impart? And less likely to rip?

Yes, 100%

Old lady H wrote:My understanding is that's what we are aiming to avoid by being close to the wall on a lead belay, especially when gear is involved.

Yes. However, the OHM grabs onto the rope as the climber falls, and as a result gets sucked upwards into an upside-down/vertical position. It's an unavoidable part of how the OHM works, no matter where you stand.

Patrick Shyvers wrote: Yes, 100% Yes. However, the OHM grabs onto the rope as the climber falls, and as a result gets sucked upwards into an upside-down/vertical position. It's an unavoidable part of how the OHM works, no matter where you stand.

If I understand how the ohm works correctly, I'd imagine that it may not work optimally when used on opposed nuts (multi-directional 1st piece). The Ohm is designed to be used on a rigid quickdraw clipped to a bolt, a system with very little flexibility.

Now imagine your typical opposed nut placement. It's got a lot of flexibility because you're using a runner. I'd imagine this flexibility would mess with the directional force vectors that engage the ohm.

eli poss wrote: If I understand how the ohm works correctly, I'd imagine that it may not work optimally when used on opposed nuts (multi-directional 1st piece). The Ohm is designed to be used on a rigid quickdraw clipped to a bolt, a system with very little flexibility. Now imagine your typical opposed nut placement. It's got a lot of flexibility because you're using a runner. I'd imagine this flexibility would mess with the directional force vectors that engage the ohm.

Good point. Easy to try, anyway! That trad bit could just be done on an appropriate sport route, just to be safe. Then, you could fly at will and see what works.

OLH

Got my OHM in today from backcountry. took it to the gym for the crew to take some divebombs and everyone had positive reviews. heres my experience:

I am 195lbs
Partner is 165
Wife is 110

Typically my partner's natural weight and stance gives me a soft catch. he feels he needs to wear gloves and puts on his street shoes (and of course i support his preferences). My wife, however, we need to tether to an immovable object even on TR, let alone any leads.

First jump with the OHM was me with my Partner belaying. he stood about 10ft away from the wall and I leapt from the bolt around knee high (6 bolts off the ground so about 35'). It was quite a hard catch, I jumped too far out away from the wall and he reported barely feeling my weight at all. luckily my feet protected me but even at that height I had a good amount of speed.

Second jump he moved in to about 5-6feet from the wall. I jumped from the 6th bolt at my feet. this was a much softer catch. and i actually didn't even come down as far. not sure why, perhaps he didn't move toward the wall as far.

Third jump was mocking a missed clip (7th bolt), so my feet were at the 6th bolt plus an arm load of rope as well. catch was soft and partner came up about 10", basically just enough for him to gently swing into the wall.

4th-6th jumps were basically repeating the same process with my 110lb (85lb difference) wife. she however had success being a little further away from the wall, however she did some off the ground still, she was amazed how well the device worked.

First impressions were really great. The only issue was remembering to grab it on the lower and having to climb back to the first bolt to grab it.

as another note, the instruction manual says trad gear is no bueno and hangers only.