Two followers on thin half ropes

I have a brand new set of the BD 7.8mm half/twin ropes. What are people's thoughts on bringing up two seconds with them? IE one tied to each strand? Thicker half ropes like 8.8, I've been told it is all good, and have had no problems with. Theoretically, these are rated as halves so they should be fine, and its top roping so its less likely one gets cut on an edge. The thinness of the rope though gives me the jitters. Does anyone have any prior experience with this?

I took a maybe 60ft swing on a 7.8 Tendon starting a descending traverse when a hold broke, the rope looked f#cking thin as I whizzed across!

How would you feel at the bottom of that rope? It's fine if they're rated as half ropes, but I'd be cautious. I've done it with 8.2 half ropes, sure wouldn't want to go much thinner if you're on rope snaring terrain.

ive seen a 8mm rope get a core shot after one struggle crux hang sesh.

ive also used 8mm ropes in this fashion on many routes, with great success.

choose wisely.

umm its standard?

why do you have thin ropes if it gives you the jitters?
p.s. thin ropes give me the jitters...

That's what they are for?

I use 7.7's regularly. Just be carful of common pitfalls/issues that exist when using a plaquette, as these exaggerate with thin cord.

Ok, so I'm getting the general response is it should be fine to bring up two people on? This would be on easier longer trad climbs so thrashing at the crux shouldn't be an issue.

It's the single strand use with two seconds that gives me jitters because of the thinness. I'm perfectly comfortable using them as halves or twins for a party of two where both are in play.

It's perfectly safe to follow on half ropes. That being said you'll have the exact same problems that exist with skinny singles. Less durability, less overall sheath =easier cutting, possibly more stretch.

That being said they're light and skinny. You make some compromises with that skinny of ropes. Inspect more often for core damage. But you'll be fine.

We did that years ago whilst ice climbing. Worked great until I cut through my stand like a hot knife on butter. Went from following to soloing the crux of a WI5. At that point my partner was below me and off to the side a bit. So I calmly undid my daisy chain and clipped into the other strand. At least then if I fell I would just slide down the rope and bounce into my partner. Of course he was none too thrilled with the idea.

As for doing that on rock and on alpine terrain. SOP at more moderate grades with three people.

Also depends on the belay device you use.
I've locked up an ATC Guide and a Reverso 4 while belaying (guide-mode) a struggling second on an 8mm Mammut Phoenix.
She was attached both lines but at that point all her bouncing weight was on a single strand.

you may want to consider using a GiGi/Ovo as otherwise both strands will lock up if one person falls.

For easier long trad climbs, where you don't expect anyone to be thrashing -- should be fine.

Actually, most situations where you'd want to be climbing in a party of three, using thin half ropes will be fine. If you weren't in such a climbing situation, you also probably wouldn't want to be doing it as a party of three.

I've had a pair of 7.8s (the Metolius ones) for a couple of years and they've held up quite well. Used them for two followers on multiple occasions. Be extra careful of sharp edges though. For me the biggest adjustment was how little friction through the device there is on rappell--7.8 mm dry-treated whips through very quickly.

I once took some 6.9mm flycatchers out with a party of three. 5 mile hike so we figured the weight savings would be worth the risk. My buddy led the crux pitch flawlessly which included a Bombay chimney/ overhanging crux. His girlfriend seconded and unclipped herself and I followed (thirded?) and pulled gear. I was taking it slow and gave her 10-15 feet of space but once she arrived at the roof I hung out at a rest to watch. Well she struggled and thrashed and finally pitched off. Everything went slow motion as she fell past me. My sphincter was at maximum tightness when she came to a halt 10 feet below me. Took a 30' TR whipper but when combined with the exposure of being under a giant roof 5-6 pitches off the ground it was one of the gnarliest falls I've ever seen. Not knowing if her rope had potentially burned through mine (twins NOT halves) I went in direct and threw her a lasso of slings to pull her out of the void. She took it like a champ and was probably calmer than me.

Moral of the story? You've got three people. Carrying two "real" ropes won't make or break the day. Yeah, everyone was fine as were the ropes but a sharp edge could have easily changed that. Had a ledge been 20' beneath her maybe a broken bone. If you do decide the skinny ropes are worth bringing keep in mind how stretchy they are.

Eli I have a Gigi and 8mm Phoenix. The slots on the Gigi are pretty wide, enough that you could potentially invert a skinny single. obviously that's not an issue with two ropes, but the amount of rope contact is. There is very little contact between the climber and brake strand on skinnier half ropes. I would not consider them a "hands free" guide device like we normally do.

I use an Atc guide with the Phoenix 8mm.

Allen Sanderson wrote:We did that years ago whilst ice climbing. Worked great until I cut through my stand like a hot knife on butter....

What! More details! I presume it was your pick that cut through the rope? How thick was the rope?

r m wrote: What! More details! I presume it was your pick that cut through the rope? How thick was the rope?

It was back in the late 80s when I was using some cheap but sharp Japanese tools with half moon picks. Kinda like the old Hummingbird tube picks. It was perfect timing, as I swung, the rope moved, and I chopped it in half. The rope was a 8-9mm cord. Exciting times on Stewart Falls: mountainproject.com/v/stewa…

BITD one rope mfg made a cord with cable strand just for ice climbers and this situation. They were not very popular. Today I prefer to climb ice using half or twin ropes.

Where is Wow Dilliams when you need him?

Don Ferris wrote:My sphincter was at maximum tightness

I feel that this is a perfect description of the experience of following on a single sub-8mm double/twin. I can't comment on how dangerous it actually is, but it certainly feels scary.