Need some Beta on Hood
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Need alittle Beta for Mt. Hood. Hitting the mountain on November 12th with a team of 3 total. Will I need ice screws if so what sizes, will I need a half rope? |
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+1 on beta |
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By which route?!? |
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Southwest is my ideal route. But I'm open to suggestions. |
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I'll assume you're referring to the standard, south side route. There's not a southwest route. Do not go west around crater rock due to increased avalanche danger on that side of the crater. The west crater rim is best in mid spring. I mention this because it's the closest thing to a SW route. |
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Good info, George! |
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Most people solo that route regardless of the visibility of the bergshrund. |
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+1 for George. |
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Sounds great. And yes I meant the Southern route. So beyond pickets and rope any other pro suggestions? Should I bring anything from my regular rack? |
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Ben Ambrose wrote:Sounds great. And yes I meant the Southern route. So beyond pickets and rope any other pro suggestions? Should I bring anything from my regular rack?The route isn't really as hard as you seem to think it is. Many people would not even bother with a harness on the S. Side route. Zero chance you're going to get any rock gear in, don't bother. The standard variations are all way easier than you;'d need rock gear for anyway. I was up there last weekend (not on the route, but in the vicinity) and the std. route looked in. They are getting quite a bit of snow right now, so be careful and cognizant of conditions before you commit to a climb. Bergshrund looked like it was still open, but you don't even need to negotiate it if you go through the chutes. chrisccc wrote:+1 on beta Would love to know what routes tend to be in during late fall and early winter.Lots of stuff "can" be in, it's very dependent on the weather in the preceding week/weeks. It's very dependent on your capabilities and willingness to hike also. Starting in Nov/Dec, you might be able to get on the following: -N. Face Gullies -Leuthold Couloir -Reid Headwall -S. Side Std -Wy'east -Cathedral Ridge There are some more obscure routes that might be in too, but I am not as familiar with them. DKH might be in. I'd probably stay off the routes with more crevasse hazard in early season (Sunshine, Coe, Sandy), but that's just me. I got on Leuthold in mid-January last year and it was primo climbing. |
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Kyle Tarry wrote: The route isn't really as hard as you seem to think it is. Many people would not even bother with a harness on the S. Side route. Zero chance you're going to get any rock gear in, don't bother. The standard variations are all way easier than you;'d need rock gear for anyway. I was up there last weekend (not on the route, but in the vicinity) and the std. route looked in. They are getting quite a bit of snow right now, so be careful and cognizant of conditions before you commit to a climb. Bergshrund looked like it was still open, but you don't even need to negotiate it if you go through the chutes. Lots of stuff "can" be in, it's very dependent on the weather in the preceding week/weeks. It's very dependent on your capabilities and willingness to hike also. Starting in Nov/Dec, you might be able to get on the following: -N. Face Gullies -Leuthold Couloir -Reid Headwall -S. Side Std -Wy'east -Cathedral Ridge There are some more obscure routes that might be in too, but I am not as familiar with them. DKH might be in. I'd probably stay off the routes with more crevasse hazard in early season (Sunshine, Coe, Sandy), but that's just me. I got on Leuthold in mid-January last year and it was primo climbing.Amazing info. I feel like I need to buy you a beer. |
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chrisccc wrote: Amazing info. I feel like I need to buy you a beer.I feel like I wasn't even that helpful! FYI, some guys have been getting up there already this season. A couple trip reports (second one is mine, not from the main summit, but gives some flavor to the conditions): cascadeclimbers.com/forum/u… cascadeclimbers.com/forum/u… The biggest thing to keep in mind that that everything is dependent on weather and conditions the week or so leading up to climb day. All the big routes are "in" as far as sufficient coverage from id-winter on, but you have to be aware of avalanche danger and general risk of a miserable day of postholing. Stuff starts to firm up and weather gets more stable in late spring. Some of the north face routes are supposed to be best in early winter (Nov-Dec), I haven't been on them yet personally (but they are on my to-do list for the next month or so!). |
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Kyle Tarry wrote: I feel like I wasn't even that helpful! FYI, some guys have been getting up there already this season. A couple trip reports (second one is mine, not from the main summit, but gives some flavor to the conditions): cascadeclimbers.com/forum/u… cascadeclimbers.com/forum/u… The biggest thing to keep in mind that that everything is dependent on weather and conditions the week or so leading up to climb day. All the big routes are "in" as far as sufficient coverage from id-winter on, but you have to be aware of avalanche danger and general risk of a miserable day of postholing. Stuff starts to firm up and weather gets more stable in late spring. Some of the north face routes are supposed to be best in early winter (Nov-Dec), I haven't been on them yet personally (but they are on my to-do list for the next month or so!).Oh awesome, I saw that Iron Maiden post on CC - didn't realize it was you! |
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I did it solo today. Camped overnight at the lodge and was heading up at 620 am. |
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wankel7 wrote:I did it solo today. Camped overnight at the lodge and was heading up at 620 am. I didn't need crampons until Castle Rock. As I started into the hogback I wasn't able to identify the bergshrund so I went left and went up old chute to the summit arriving at 1020. The day was bluebird and warm. I was surprised that not much ice and snow was coming off the mountains. And I didn't see much evidence in the snow of large pieces coming off in the past. I had a blast what a beautiful mountain! Have fun! Also, you need an Oregon SnoPark pass for $25 to park in the lot.Jealous. I was planning to climb today but got stomped by work. Good job! |
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A little off topic, but here's the best tool for forecasting weather on the mountain: |
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Whatever Max. Maybe lay off on the bullshit advice on something you know zero about. |
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Tico wrote:Whatever Max. Maybe lay off on the bullshit advice on something you know zero about.What do you recommend? |
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Bring a fucking compass and know how to use the damn thing. Many of climbers have tried to descend in a white out only to get lost. November is a great month for it to piss sideways. |
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wankel7 wrote: What do you recommend?Tico's a friend and coworker with too much time on his hands and his phone permanently interfaced with his cerebral cortex. |
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I'm legitimately curious, speaking as an aspiring weather geek: can you explain how to read that timeheights graph? |