Rope and Draws, The essentials
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Looking to buy a rope and some draws to start sport climbing. |
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9.8mm 60M rope |
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Awesome, thanks for the input |
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Depending on where you climb, a 70m rope can be useful. I saw that you're from SoCal, and the Owens River Gorge has some routes that a 70m rope will make a LOT easier. I live in New England now and a 60m rope is fine here, but if I were back out west I'd definitely get a 70. |
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Buy the cheapest reputable gear you can find... to a point. You want to make sure that the gear has good action in your hands. I tend to prefer wire gate biners, but there are also plenty of solid gate options as well. I ended up looking for sales and buying multi-packs and got down to about $10 per draw for Trango Phase and Camp Express draws. |
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9.8mm x 70 meter x dry treated |
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I'd be careful ignoring brands on ropes. There have been some really lame ropes in the past few years... |
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Save money on your draws, but splurge a bit on a rope. 70 meter ropes are fantastic, but I'd be wiling to bet most people get a 60 m rope for their first rope. This also depends largely where you will be climbing. I highly reccomended getting a rope from a highly reputable brand and if possible a rope that was lap coiled prior to packaging and shipping. I've had some crummy ropes, but Mammut, Petzl, and Pinnacle ropes have all been great! |
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Read up on your climbing area to decide rope length, or if you plan to travel much just spring for the 70. Opens up a lot of options. I've always been a fan of a high quality 10.2mm rope for an everyday workhorse rope. |
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Buy a 70-80M rope, you won't regret it. |
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I'd recommend going for a nicer set of draws and a more inexpensive rope. It seems like most people tend to thrash their first rope pretty quickly, but it's probably going to take you a little while to wear through the rope end biner on those draws. My preference is for draws with key lock solid gates (bent gate if you have them on the rope end as well). These handle much nicer when cleaning steep sport routes. I used wire gate draws for many years and they usually clip nicely, are light, but the gates aren't always as durable. Biner size is an important factor as well. Small biners may be light, but might also be harder to clip. |
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If you use a Grigri, don't go too much thicker than 10mm. It gets to be a pain to feed when lead belaying. I prefer to not have to disengage the cam. As others mentioned, 9.6-9.8 is perfect, +/- .2 or so. |
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As a newer sport climber myself, I've also had to recently make this decision. |
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One benefit to getting a 70m rope is that if you have to cut a chunk off the end, your rope is still long enough for most (almost all) routes, saving you from potentially having to buy another rope before your first one is totally worn out. |
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Jordan Marvel wrote:Buy a 70-80M rope, you won't regret it.A 70 can make sense; an 80 is still overkill and mostly pointless, esp. for a new climber. |
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Jack Stephenson wrote:...the most common reasons for failure is loading the carbiner when the non-key lock carabiner is attached to the bolt improperly, causing off axis loading. ... The way to go is a solid, keylock style gate for the bolt side, or if you really prefer the wire, the new(ish) hoodwire carabiners are also a safe option. ...Nose hooking is 100% pilot error. If you like the way wiregates feel, get wiregates and pay attention. No matter what you get pay attention. Some keylock gates have the nose shaped in such a way nose hooking is still possible (although far less likely). Virtually all gear failure is pilot error. No matter what gear you have, know how to use it, and while gear use should become automatic it should never become complacent. |
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JK- wrote: Nose hooking is 100% pilot error.I totally agree, and obviously BD does as well as they still sell the things. I also doubt that anyone has ever nose hooked on purpose, and I prefer to stack the cards in my favor. |
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Thanks everyone for the input, super helpful. I love al the opinions. |