mountaineering pack recommendation

I'm not an expert in multi day winter objectives but I like my BD Mission 50. I've always stayed in a cabin, snow shelter or lean to so maybe that's saving lots of room?

Not trying to pick sides but listen to Dave Schultz

neils wrote: So if I were going to change the conversation slightly away from cold weather considerations - what about using an Osprey Talon 33 or Kestrel 45 for a PNW summer route...as opposed to a 30-40 liter climbing pack (Cilo, Arteryx, etc, etc) Sounds like for cold weather winter whitney (a trip I already have planned) I'll want something a little larger - I tested some stuff out with my 65L and it fits - tent, gear, stove, etc...but it is a little tight. I packed it for full winter.

Those backpacking oriented packs will work fine for the standard glacier mountaineering routes on the volcanoes. From a technical standpoint you're just hiking while navigating crevasse terrain on the DC, emmons, easton, cd, etc..

If you want to get into routes that have steeper snow/moderate ice or lots of class 4/low 5th terrain. When you're getting your arms into it having a narrower pack with less of a frame that keeps weight in close and moves with you is a real advantage.

You guys carrying the smaller packs in the winter what do you do when tent condensation freezes creating a much bulkier tent? Obviously its not an issue for an overnight but 2 or 3 nights when you're pitching and breaking down the tent for multiple locations.

@Dave Schultz - thanks a lot for that detailed post - much appreciated. I suspect I will do my winter whitney (mountaineer's route) trip with what I have and then as I gain more and more experience see how I want to dial things over time. It sounds like it will be big enough from what I can see which was one of my main concerns. I didn't want to be cramming and floundering with a pack that really wasnt large enough - sounds like if I can't make this trip work with a 65 I am doing something wrong for sure.

Most people start by taking too much gear, then reduce as they get experience. Not the other way around. You won't know what you don't need until you carry it on a couple of trips, first.

Even though other people might not use a tent or a sleeping pad, that might not work for you.

Start with your 65, then adjust as needed.

Edit: I think I just said the same thing you did, Neils.

I'm with Dave on this one. I did a three day trip with my Deuter Guide Lite 32+ when I climbed Dragontail Peak via Triple Couloirs. Our rack included cams .3-2, 6 ice screws, three(!) pickets and two ropes, split between my partner and I. I can't imagine hauling around a 70L pack. On top of the rack, we carried a MHW EV2 tent, sleeping bags, etc.

I started with a 70L Osprey pack for my first two mountaineering objectives (3-4 days each.) I remember being in awe of people who said they used 35L pack on multiday trips.

I now use a BD Mission 45 for all my trips, including winter trips. I generally don't even fill it up anymore and often leave the brain at home. I find as long as your not going solo and you can split group gear with a partner, 45L is more than adequate. My 70L has only came out of the closet once in the last few years and that was for a 10 day ski trip.

Just in case you needed another opinion that is the same as everyone else's.

Slogger wrote:I started with a 70L Osprey pack for my first two mountaineering objectives (3-4 days each.) I remember being in awe of people who said they used 35L pack on multiday trips. I now use a BD Mission 45 for all my trips, including winter trips. I generally don't even fill it up anymore and often leave the brain at home. I find as long as your not going solo and you can split group gear with a partner, 45L is more than adequate. My 70L has only came out of the closet once in the last few years and that was for a 10 day ski trip. Just in case you needed another opinion that is the same as everyone else's.

you live in AK. Based on this post for winter trips I was wondering what you use for shelter and sleeping bag for a winter 3-4 day mountaineering trip with a 45L pack.

Just to throw a different perspective in here, I think the standard approach of buying all the things you are going to put in the pack, then buying a pack that fits all of it is the key.

I Thru-hiked the PCT last year and soloed Baker, Rainier and Whitney along the way with a 48L pack (ULA circuit) or a 32L pack (MLD Burn). Even being out for 10+ days at a time, everything fit.

If you want a smaller/lighter pack, buy smaller/lighter stuff to put in it. Best of luck and remember that once you go light, you never look back.

neils wrote: you live in AK. Based on this post for winter trips I was wondering what you use for shelter and sleeping bag for a winter 3-4 day mountaineering trip with a 45L pack.

BD First light tent and some Marmot 0 degree bag, don't know the model. Sometimes I use a tarp instead of a tent, depends on how comfortable I'm striving to be.

One tip for being as light as possible is try to get dual purpose out of as many items as possible. I normally only use a 3/4 length sleeping pad, lay your pack down for the other 1/4 of your body that's off the sleeping pad. Sleep in your down and lay your shell stuff between you and the sleeping pad. Any and every bit of insulation you can get from the ground while resting helps. Rope makes a good pillow.

BD Speed 30...packs out to 40+ liters. Buy some straps and get creative if you have to. I've done an 8 day Bugaboos trip out of that pack. It's also available in larger sizes. There are some "cooler" packs out there for several hundred dollars, but at $150 without a sale...I'll stick with the Speed 30.

Smaller pack size is one of the favorite humblebrags of alpine aficionados.

Points to consider not previously raised:

Bushwhacking? Having a small pack with lots of stuff strapped to the outside is fine for most outings, but if you're exploring remote areas and dealing with lots of off-trail travel below treeline the prospect of losing stuff could be obnxious.

Carry-over or not? It isn't the "cool kids" solution, but there's something to be said for packing into your "basecamp" with a big bag, then bringing a smaller "summit pack" for the technical climbing. I generally would only do this on an extended trip (e.g. going into the Bugaboos or the Wind Rivers for a week or something).

You're getting good advice in terms of shooting for something no bigger than the 50L-ish range.

For climbing (not hiking / backpacking), I feel a quiver of a 30L-ish pack and 45-50L-ish pack spans most of the set of single to day to 3-4 night trips that one might do in North America.

Final "Captain Obvious" thought: most actual climbing (not hiking) trips are undertaken with favorable weather conditions. Hence the recommendations to eschew a lot of comforts / protection. Lightweight sleeping bags, a lightweight flat tarp or nothing at all, and the like will go a long way to helping you fit everything.

Mountain Hardwear South Col Outdry!

VERY light, waterproof material, comfortable, durable.