Trapps top rope (nosedive and retribution)

Nice job man, way to go for it. If you need a rope gun for those 5.10s that you can't drop a rope on, shoot me a message. I'm out there a lot this time of year

JRZane wrote:for anyone still interested: got there early enough saturday to lead bunny and traverse over to drop ropes on Retribution and Nosedive. Also dropped a couple ropes on Gerdie as we had a group of 10. after a couple warm up runs on Gerdie I gave Nosedive a run on top rope. I actually came off once down low where that down-compression move to the top of the small left facing corner is. But after that I ran up to the crux, took a rest (on the rope) and proceeded up to the directional. Feeling kind of brave I loaded up on my small gear and gave it a go. I got cleanly (although not gracefully) up to the crux, stuck as many pieces in as I could without blocking my hand holds and beasted up to the anchor. This WAS NOT a clean climb and I rested on gear 2-3 times before working the nerve and muscle to get through it. This is how I know Im still not ready to lead harder stuff yet. Every once in a while my mind will lose focus and Ill get scared as hell. never even got to touch Retribution as the group moved down to do some easier multi.

way to go!

ChapelPondGirl wrote:Not to be a Debbie Downer about the gear on Nosedive, but the first piece is a very small wire, and you have to make a committing move up to a ledge. If the wire blew you will deck....heck you may deck if it doesn't blow. The next piece is also a very small wire before you clip the pin. Both wires are excellent, if placed correctly, but still necky for a budding leader. Nosedive will be there next year, and the year after that. Lead it when you feel comfortable leading it, or not at all! It's your climbing, no one elses. Cheers.

Not sure what your point is, exactly. Nosedive has good gear, as you acknowledge. JRZane previewed it before he led it. Unless there is reason to think he can't evaluate the placements properly I don't see why he shouldn't do exactly what he did.

Sounds like a nice effort, JRZane.

ChapelPondGirl wrote: the first piece is a very small wire, and you have to make a committing move up to a ledge. If the wire blew you will deck....heck you may deck if it doesn't blow. The next piece is also a very small wire before you clip the pin.

YMMV