Yelling at Tahquitz/Suicide

Please consider learning to communicate while climbing without speaking and especially yelling. There are lots of spots where your climber or belayer won't be able to hear you. Even trying to communicate by yelling could cause more confusion and dangerous situations.
You can use the 2 tugs means on belay method but I recommend just telling the belayor that when the rope runs out just let go of the belay device, wait a minute or two and then start climbing, leaving the belay device on the rope. If you climb up and the slack is taken up you are either on belay or simuling, with a competent leader you are safe...probably ;)

Hey man, I'm annoyed by the yelling but I would be very annoyed if I had to pick up body parts cause some noob thought they was on belay when they weren't.

Or, if you don't get verbal confirmation or are otherwise in doubt, put the second on belay before pulling up the rope and pull it through your device.

^^^ That makes no sense.

I agree with the OP. Everyone should STFU for several reasons. One, it's annoying as hell hearing all those noobs yelling all kinds of shit. Even some experienced people have way too much dialogue. Two, and more importantly, in busy areas, it is easy to confuse someone's communication with your own. I know of more than one occasion where leaders have been taken off belay while still on lead because their belayer heard off belay. But it was from another party. I've even participated in a serious injury 100 foot ground fall for this same reason.

Erm...if you're unsure, keep the climber on belay. What's not to get?

This would never happen at Woodson

Ted Pinson wrote:Erm...if you're unsure, keep the climber on belay. What's not to get?

So now you're saying "keep the climber on belay".

Before you said "put the second on belay".

I don't need an explanation. Just poorly written. Consider rewriting more clearly.

Tradoholic wrote:Hey man, I'm annoyed by the yelling but I would be very annoyed if I had to pick up body parts cause some noob thought they was on belay when they weren't.

Yep! If people are on a longer route where communication is gonna be difficult, It's not rocket science to pick up a little handheld radio set at walmart so you can talk to your partner and trust me......this is much more beneficial than being the one to pick up body parts or see a buddies blood at the crag.

Ask me how I know. Radios are fairly inexpensive.

Greg D wrote:^^^ That makes no sense. I agree with the OP. Everyone should STFU for several reasons. One, it's annoying as hell hearing all those noobs yelling all kinds of shit. Even some experienced people have way too much dialogue. Two, and more importantly, in busy areas, it is easy to confuse someone's communication with your own. I know of more than one occasion where leaders have been taken off belay while still on lead because their belayer heard off belay. But it was from another party. I've even participated in a serious injury 100 foot ground fall for this same reason.

I was almost taken off belay a few weeks ago because noobs were yelling without names, my partner yelled back to me "OK! Off Belay!" and I'm like mid-crux, started yelling "NO! NO! NO! NO!", thankfully we were close enough that he heard me, that could have been bad.

I don't really like the tug system, tends to be too vague and get confusing as well, especially climbing with less experienced people.

Agreed the tug system is not fool proof. It takes a bit of practice. It is important is to know how hard to tug. I see people give a few gentle tugs thinking this signal will reach their partner. This will not work very well. I can assure you, to be effective, one needs to tug much harder than one thinks, especially on long pitches with rope drag. To get the signal to your partner consider tugging like you are trying to start on old lawnmower. Yank like your life depends on it. It does.

And, of course, if a belayer has even the slightest doubt, just keep the leader on belay till there is no more rope, assuming you are tied in.

Please consider what?

I wish there were more formations in Idyllwild than Tahquiqui and Sewy side. Then, we could walk a little further and then we could climb somewhere quiet that the noobs weren't willing to hike to.

For now, I guess youll find me in the quiet secluded crags of SD.
@Burch.... Braj.... you keep telling everyone that MT woody is rad, soon theres gonna be nonlocals on our turf. Mt. Woodson is locals only, braj, your letting the secret out!

Somewhere not in Idyllwild

I'm hoping that the four hundred people who climb there on the weekends see this thread. Really pullin for ya on that one.

if you were over by etude/guillotine/flower area Sunday, I agree, the parties there were being loud, not just with climbing communication, but in general. I nicely spoke with a few later that day about being more courteous to others around and that the ruckus can sometimes impair communication/safety for other climbers around. Maybe divert your efforts from ranting on MP to educating the offending peoples :)

Fitzy.... there are more formations, go and find them. Solitude guaranteed.

Tradoholic wrote: I was almost taken off belay a few weeks ago because noobs were yelling without names, my partner yelled back to me "OK! Off Belay!" and I'm like mid-crux, started yelling "NO! NO! NO! NO!", thankfully we were close enough that he heard me, that could have been bad. I don't really like the tug system, tends to be too vague and get confusing as well, especially climbing with less experienced people.

That's not got anything to do with verbal communication, it's up to you and your partner to use names and make it clear that without a name they shluldnt respond. This is the most ridiculous complaint I have ever heard about climbing, you seriously want people to stop talking to their partners entirely? Yet you dont like rope based communication? Get a grip and get over yourself, tool.

Guy,
I was being sarcastic. Can you tell me what the name is of the formation that i posted above? It's likely been climbed before. I'm about to post info regarding the FKA, but I'm currently waiting to hear back from a few people about whether or not it has a name before I name it.

Greg D wrote: And, of course, if a belayer has even the slightest doubt, just keep the leader on belay till there is no more rope, assuming you are tied in.

That's what I just...ah, f&$k it, never mind. :p

@fitzy braj don't worry man everyone knows those are my rocks breh so we are safe for sure, btw the choss lumps up beyond the north gully descent are all my FAs did them in '82 as a toddler, lickels ownlie bredge

s.price wrote:So the Op is bitching about people yelling but then bitching about the yelling that he went through with his partner. The problem is not the yelling. It's the bitchy ass climbers. Telling others to improve their level of communication then making the same mistake? Bitching. Maybe take up golf or tennis instead.

Learn to read dude. I will reiterate so you understand. I was almost taken off belay because another party was screaming off belay and not using names. I had to yell at my partner to stop him from taking me off. If the other party had been using silent techniques or at least using names there woudn't have been an issue.

JoeCrawford wrote: That's not got anything to do with verbal communication, it's up to you and your partner to use names and make it clear that without a name they shluldnt respond. This is the most ridiculous complaint I have ever heard about climbing, you seriously want people to stop talking to their partners entirely? Yet you dont like rope based communication? Get a grip and get over yourself, tool.

Yes, my partner should have waited to hear my name but that the fact that he didnt is exactly my point. Verbel communication is often misinterrepted and what if names were used but myself and the other climber had similar names? Ive heard that confusion actually happening.

Read the OP again, follow my advice and you will never have to yell ever again. When the rope goes tight, just climb :)