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4 days in Tuolumne, what are we missing?

Original Post
Toad · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 0

Me again. So, in the interest of making the most out of 4 days in Tuolumne (leaving soon), here's what we have in mind for fun, easy, tall stuff:

- Day 1, Tenaya Peak ... to get in the groove of things
- Day 2, Cathedral Peak + Eichorn Pinnacle
- Day 3, Mt. Conness West Ridge
- Day 4, ????

What are we missing? Looking for classic, fun multipitch adventures. Matthes Crest looks awesome but I'm not sure my partner would want to be ropeless for that much, so it may be a pain in the ass to pitch big sections of it.... right? Never seen it so we have no idea what to expect.

Is it possible to do Tenaya peak, then move cross country over to Cathedral Peak in the same day?

Any fun day adventures to be had with zero gear for a my partner (sub 5.7 climber)?

And a single 70m rope should be sufficient, right?

Thanks for your help, guys!!!

acrophobe · · Orange, CT · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 0

My partner and I did the southern half of Matthes Crest (the more popular portion) by roping up and simulclimbing most of it. Only set belays on a few spots (or when the leader was short on gear).

One of the most remarkable places I have ever climbed. I highly recommend you put it on the first day of your trip.

Max R · · Bend · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 292

Anything on Stately Pleasure Dome. Hermaphrodite flake to the Boltway is fun low angle romp. West Crack on
DAFF Dome is sweet too. Or, if you really want the street cred, OZ is legendary.

Jacob Krenn · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 120

You could do Cathedral, then hike over to Matthes Crest very quickly, and rope up/simulclimb any sections you feel uncomfortable with. Many people bail after the southern half, so that's also an option. Linking Tenaya/Cathedral is very possible, but without prior knowledge of the hiking, and with days getting shorter, it's probably not a great first day option.

OZ/Gram linkup on Drug Dome is incredible, and a solid option. The Regular Route on Fairview Dome is another classic. The rest of your list looks solid! You'll be fully satisfied and worn out if you tick everything in a four day stretch! Have fun, and safe travels!

Chris Massey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 5

Regular Route on Fairview or West Crack on Daff across the road. Maybe just a little harder than what you were looking for but well worth it.

Jan Tarculas · · San Diego, Ca · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 947

I second west crack of Daff dome. One of my favorite 5.9s anywhere

Chasing Choss · · California · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 416

+1 for matthes

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65

A number of these suggested climbs, while great, are going to be a miserable time for a "sub 5.7" partner.
OZ? Seriously?
West Crack? With the funky 5.9 crux on P1 and the strange, grunty 5.8 overhanging crack thing on P2?
Even Fairview Regular route has a crap ton of 5.8 after the two move 5.9 crux which would also be a bit much for a sub-5.7 climber, esp. if they're new to crack climbing.

The OP also asked:
And a single 70m rope should be sufficient, right?

Depends on the route. Some have full, multiple 55m raps, but the majority of routes have a walk off. Bailing on the other hand......

One other thing for the OP: what elevation do you live at? If you're coming from sea level, the first day (or two, or three, or four) can really slam you, hard. The Meadows campground is at 8600'. If you're planning big days on top of that.....

Toad · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 0
Marc801 wrote:A number of these suggested climbs, while great, are going to be a miserable time for a "sub 5.7" partner. OZ? Seriously? West Crack? With the funky 5.9 crux on P1 and the strange, grunty 5.8 overhanging crack thing on P2? Even Fairview Regular route has a crap ton of 5.8 after the two move 5.9 crux which would also be a bit much for a sub-5.7 climber, esp. if they're new to crack climbing. The OP also asked: And a single 70m rope should be sufficient, right? Depends on the route. Some have full, multiple 55m raps, but the majority of routes have a walk off. Bailing on the other hand...... One other thing for the OP: what elevation do you live at? If you're coming from sea level, the first day (or two, or three, or four) can really slam you, hard. The Meadows campground is at 8600'. If you're planning big days on top of that.....

Yeah, I think we're just gonna throw Mathes into the mix and go from there. We live at ~4000', so we'll be better off than some folks. Also we hiked the PCT recently and are eager to get into some thin air again.

THanks!

AndrewB · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 55

For a 5.7 climber, Dozier Dome has some good climbs. Especially for a warm up day, can do any number of 2-4 pitch routes. All close together and a simple descent.

Linking up Tenaya and Cathedral and Eichorn was pretty simple. Do Tenaya Free Solo, or simul, it's suuper cruise. Makes a relaxed loop from Tenaya Lake with some nice scrambling, hiking, and pitched out climbing. Just fun.

Doug Kinsman · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 0

I will second Dozier Dome as being a real good spot for 5.6-5.7 multipitch climbing. Also the climbs top out at the easily one of the most scenic lakes/ponds in the meadows with a real cool view of the West Face of Eichorns/back side of Cathedral Peak.

Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,419
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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