Solo Belay/Progress Capture Device Recommendations
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Okay guys- I'm going to start solo toproping if and when I'm not able to find a climbing partner. So please let the discussion begin about the best and safest device on the market for this right now. Thanks for the input! |
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2 x microscender, Kong duck, mini traction. Top one is held up with elastic cord. Search the forums here. |
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Rick Blair wrote: Search the forums here.This. There is a myriad of threads on this subject. |
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Thank you for the input! |
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Petzl micro traxions. They don't sell mini traxions anymore. |
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Thanks Jay! Have you used them/like them? |
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I'm in the two ascenders camp; with one (microtraxion) held upright with a sling or something around the chest. I use an ascension as a backup device. |
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Yes, I use two micro traxions. |
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Great! Thanks for the feedback, I'll be using two as well. With an additional backup line of loops on a second rope. |
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Rick Blair wrote:2 x microscender, Kong duck, mini traction. Top one is held up with elastic cord. Search the forums here.not the duck. While i love it as lightweight ascender, it doesn't feed nearly as well as my mini trax. |
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Great to know, thanks Eli! |
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I use a grigri and a kong duck on two lines. I have found that the grigri feeds fine when the line is weighted just right. |
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eli poss wrote: not the duck. While i love it as lightweight ascender, it doesn't feed nearly as well as my mini trax.Also the duck doesn't have a moving pulley. It has a generous rope bearing edge but as far as smooth feed the minitrax is definitely better. Be aware the minitraxion can be locked in the open position and people have had close calls solo climbing thinking they were "on belay" only to find their device disengaged. |
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COMtnWoman wrote:Great! Thanks for the feedback, I'll be using two as well. With an additional backup line of loops on a second rope.Sounds safe on paper but definitely overkill. One device is enough to hold you. Then another device for backup. Throw in two lines in case one gets cut and you're good to go. The most you need is two solutions. It can be knots and a device. It can be two devices. It can be two lines of knots. But two devices AND knots? You will quickly realize how much better two devices is, knots should be in case you forgot your device at home. |
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Check out the rescuscender, same as microscender just different size. These devices have no teeth and allow for slippage under load. I don't think anything will feed better. |
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Firestone wrote: Throw in two lines in case one gets cut and you're good to go.I've never used a second line. How neccesary is this, really? 99% of the time when climbing I only use one rope, why should TR soloing be any different? I understand concern with using a toothed device, like a microtraxion, but has there ever actually been a TR solo accident due to a rope being cut by the toothed device? |
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Because it involves fixed lines, meaning wear concentrated on one spot when over sharp edges. Leading and regular TR move the rope along. Properly padded or extended, a single fixed line is fine. |
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JCM wrote: I've never used a second line. How neccesary is this, really? 99% of the time when climbing I only use one rope, why should TR soloing be any different? I understand concern with using a toothed device, like a microtraxion, but has there ever actually been a TR solo accident due to a rope being cut by the toothed device?There have been incidents of fixed lines getting cut. I nearly had it happen to me twice, I know a local climber who fell 60' after his line got chopped, climbers have died in Yosemite from chopped ropes. Climbing fixed lines is dangerous, even more so than leading in many cases. If the line is moving in a loop, the risk is much lower. |
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I like using a Cinch for the ability to lower instantly at the top of a pitch...nice for running laps |
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Jay Eggleston wrote:Petzl micro traxions. They don't sell mini traxions anymore.Petzl also re-designed their Basic ascender a couple years ago. While the former Basic was recommended as a solo TR belay device by Petzl, the current one isn't. I've used the Basic as my sole device (safety is clipping into Fig. 8 loops on a second line every 10-15 feet) for 10+ years, and appreciate its advantages over the mini-Trax and related devices. OP - PM me if might want to buy one of the older Basics; I don't think I'll ever need to get my "spare" out of storage, and it's in new condition. |
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20 kN wrote: There have been incidents of fixed lines getting cut. I nearly had it happen to me twice, I know a local climber who fell 60' after his line got chopped, climbers have died in Yosemite from chopped ropes. Climbing fixed lines is dangerous, even more so than leading in many cases. If the line is moving in a loop, the risk is much lower.Were the incidents you mentioned from jugging or TR soloing? Very different laoding scenarios. |