Starter trad rack

Any recommendation of what gear to have for a beginner

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It would be helpful to know what trad experience you have, if you have a regular partner or mentor, and where you intend to climb. It easy to say, "Just get a set of BD C4s and a set of stoppers" etc. But there's a lot of brands to choose from, and an obvious safety concern about lack of knowledge and experience (no offense intended, we all started at the beginning).

I've always been of the opinion that the following makes for a good generic basic trad rack. You can tailor it to the specifics of your climbing style and climbing areas:

1 set of BD C4s #0.5-#3
1 set of BD stoppers #4-13 (or equivalent)
6-8 alpine draws (dyneema slings, lightweight biners)
6 quickdraws (they're usually sold in packs of 6)
2 double shoulder length dyneema slings
2 cordelletes (I like one to be cord and one a super long dyneema sling)

Add on small cams and start doubling up on cams as you start climbing more and start to realize the need for them. Same thing goes for smaller stoppers, specialty pro like tri-cams etc.

You will definitely want a set of stoppers, 12+ carrabiners and 6-8 shoulder length slings. Regarding slings, I would go to somewhere like REI and have them cut 3/4 inch webbing into 4.5 foot sections,then hand tie them. This will give you some material you can leave behind in case you want to beef up an existing anchor, tie off a tree, etc. and at the fraction of the price of commercial slings. For the rest of your rack, it depends on your skill level. If you are doing climbs in the 5.4-5.8 and in the back country, consider getting a few hexes and a few cams in the mid size range. If you are doing pretty hard cracks, then you will want to go for more cams sooner than later.

My general advice is go simple and cheap at the outset; develop good protection skills and let your gear evolve with your skill. Find partners that can show you a thing or two about gear placement and ask for feedback on your own leads and gear placement. The Royal Robbins book from the 70s, Basic Rockcraft, has tons of wisdom on sling use, lead strategy, and anchor and gear placement that will save your life some day! Also, join REI and buy the real expensive large cams with our REI 20% off coupon you get a couple times a year.

A starter trad rack? That's nuts!

My recommendation is don't just default to BD cam's, because that's what everyone else uses. There are lots of options out there for larger cams now.

DMM, and Wild Country both make C4-like cam's, but with some added/different features.

Metolious Ultralight Master Cams are really nice, especially for the smaller sizes, and slightly cheaper. Don't let the single axle design turn you off of these. They will have better a cam angle than the above options - so sacrifice slight range per cam for increased holding power.

Go to a store and handle them yourself if possible.

Beyond that, a set of nut's and enough slings to extend for the climbs you do (probably 6-10 starting). Quick draws are debatable, but if you do, try to get some with larger loops, and more flexible slings. Sport draws are generally looked down on because of their tenancy to be stiff and contribute to cam's walking, and nut's pulling.

Hexes and Tricam's are option, niche pieces, but can be useful for expanding your rack cheaply. My #3 sized DMM Torque Nut has gotten a lot more use than I thought it would (blue size).

2 sets of ballnuts
quintuplets in hand sized cams
quadruplets in large hands and fingers
triples in microcams and offwidth sizes
1 set of hexes. Actually make that 2. More cowbell.
at least 23 alpine draws
1 set of tricams to include the sizes up to boat anchor
1 grappling
1 talon
1 skyhook
2 cam hooks
3 ascenders
3 sets of stoppers, 1 should be offset
1 set of big bros with triples in the blue size
at least 15 locking carabiners
137 ft of 6mm perlon cord
20 quickdraws

If you can't "begin" with that, something's wrong. Horribly wrong.

don'tchuffonme wrote:2 sets of ballnuts quintuplets in hand sized cams quadruplets in large hands and fingers triples in microcams and offwidth sizes 1 set of hexes. Actually make that 2. More cowbell. at least 23 alpine draws 1 set of tricams to include the sizes up to boat anchor 1 grappling 1 talon 1 skyhook 2 cam hooks 3 ascenders 3 sets of stoppers, 1 should be offset 1 set of big bros with triples in the blue size at least 15 locking carabiners 137 ft of 6mm perlon cord 20 quickdraws If you can't "begin" with that, something's wrong. Horribly wrong.

Did you just list everything that's in your closet?

Brian L. wrote:My recommendation is don't just default to BD cam's, because that's what everyone else uses.

The reason everyone uses them is because they are the best.

grog m wrote: The reason everyone uses them is because they are the best.

Are they? ;-)

Don't get me wrong, I like them, and own and use them, but I do also find myself thinking I should have gone a bit heavier on the MC's, and a bit lighter on the C4's. But I also haven't had a chance to play with the new, bigger MC's yet (with the stiffer wire - reviews seem positive though).

Having a mixed rack is for poor people. Nothing says i scraped together money and information from MP like a harness full of random shit that isnt color cooridanted and only the owner of the gear knows what is what.

For example, having green camalots and orange master cams. Super annoying when you are cruxing and looking down at your harness.

Ewan wrote:https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/teach-train-trad-climbing-indoors-for-outdoors Please don't forget this essential piece of gear -Hilton

LMAO

Brian L. wrote: Did you just list everything that's in your closet?

I wish.

grog m wrote: For example, having green camalots and orange master cams. Super annoying when you are cruxing and looking down at your harness.

I don't see the problem since those cover different sizes ;-)

Get out and climb/follow a trad leader more, then you will know what you need.

Ewan wrote:https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/teach-train-trad-climbing-indoors-for-outdoors Please don't forget this essential piece of gear -Hilton

Why has no one fully funded this idea?!

Totally serious ... that seems like a good idea!

Feel bad that he only raised something like $250...

Because it is dumb. If you can't get out to real rock to practice placements you can run class in the gym by using a bunch of holds bolted to allow for all kinds of gear (flared in and out, parallel, constructions, pockets, etc). Plus I am doubtful gyms would want this liability. When you do a lead test at ET they make you back up with a Top Rope and don't want you to fall.

keithconn wrote:Totally serious ... that seems like a good idea! Feel bad that he only raised something like $250...

Nope.
Here's 6 pages showing why:
mountainproject.com/v/leani…

Marc801 wrote: Nope. Here's 6 pages showing why: mountainproject.com/v/leani…

There should be a sarcasm button when pressing submit...this is why i love climbing plastic cracks in the gym!