Heading to Ogden in August

Hey folks,

A friend of mine lives in Ogden and I'm coming out that way for the whole month of August. I'd love some suggestions as to where to climb (and bike, camp, fly fish, camp, etc!) in that neck of the woods, as well as any other general info a fellow from Maine should have before coming to Utah in August. I imagine the heat is a factor out there this time of year, no? Well, I suppose I oughta tell you a bit about me so you don't send me somewhere that will result in my boredom or death.

I live in Maine (Acadia NP) and comfortably lead most 5.7-5.9 trad out here. 5.11 sport gets me pretty pumped out, but I have a lot of fun doing so. My favorite kind of climbing falls in the category of moderate multipitch, preferably trad but I enjoy sport, too. I don't have any experience with aid or big walls -- there aren't really venues for that kind of climbing over here. All of that being said, craggin' is always fun, and I'm sure my partner will be keen on quick pre-work outings within shooting distance of Ogden. She's more of a biker than a climber and isn't particularly familiar with the spots.

My rack runs up to a BD 4 and I have doubles in most of the small to finger sized pieces, as a well as a couple of the larger ones. I'm willing to buy a few more and/or different pieces if they would open up a lot more terrain.

And if you're in the area and wouldn't mind showing me around for a climb or two, let me know! I'd love to return the favor on some northeastern granite if you ever find yourself up this way.

Cheers,
Sam

I moved to Ogden a few months ago so I'm by no means an expert, but the best areas we've tried so far are 9th street, 29th street, the school room/ramp routes/Sunday wall, and Ogden Canyon. They're all on MP with decent descriptions although there's a guidebook that's also not bad Guidebook

There's a good mix of trad and sport with a few trad multi-pitch routes thrown in there. There's also a boulder field from 27th street through 24th-ish. Basically pick whatever crag name is (say 9th street or 29th street) and head toward the mountains on that road. You'll find a parking lot and just go from there.

If you've got a whole day to venture out or a weekend, I'd recommend hitting up City of Rocks in Idaho or the Cotton Wood Canyons in SLC. If you were coming in a cooler season I'd recommend checking out Moab, but right now it's pretty hot mid-day.

Yes it will be hot, seek shade or elevation and youre good. I cant speak for the local Ogden crags but i think theyre pretty sunny so maybe early mornings. Big Cottonwood has many shady crags. You will want to head up to the Uintas for sport climbing on great quartzite at 10000 feet. Probably some great fishing up there too. For trad I'd highly recommend making the slog up to Lone Peak Cirque. Bring provisions and spend 3 or 4 days up there. Should be snow melting up there still so you wont need to carry water. Open Book is okay. Lowe Route, Center Thumb and Vertical Overhangs are excellent. Very possible to do multiple routes in a day once you're up there.

If we have a cool August, you may be ok. Many of the Ogden crags tend to be in the sun.

If you're here for the whole month, don't be afraid to drive!
Check out:
Echo Canyon
Big Cottonwood
Little Cottonwood
Hellgate
Lone Peak
Uintas
American Fork

And if you don't mind driving...
City of Rocks, ID
Maple Canyon
Wind Rivers

Thanks for the really helpful replies. Stoked to hear that the Ogden area itself has enough climbing to stay busy during down days.

Lone Peak Cirque is particularly appealing, but 5.10 trad in a remote setting is a bit out of my wheelhouse. It appears there is some slightly easier stuff up there too, though. It looks like one hell of spot.

Cheers,
Sam

Ogden has a pretty decent amount... But Salt Lake is less than an hour and both Big Cottonwood and Little Cottonwood canyons have loads of that moderate multipitch stuff. A quick gander at the "classics" section for either canyon is a pretty good starting point on finding it.

Also recommend the West Slabs of Mt. Olympus if you've got much of a day to kill. More of the multipitch-easy, but lots of pitches and a great view of the valley.

One more question: Any reason to add a 70m rope to the quiver before coming out?

Thanks, JK!

Sam Day wrote:One more question: Any reason to add a 70m rope to the quiver before coming out? Thanks, JK!

I'd vote yes.

There is lots of stuff you can do without it, but a lot that needs it. Opens up options and avoids an oh shit moment. Plus linking pitches.

Let me know if you want to climb at City of Rocks or Castle Rocks. I will be there Aug. 21-23.