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Single pitch hard trad line near Colorado Springs

Original Post
Ben Sebald · · Rochester, MN · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 1,838

I'm looking for a single pitch Trad project! I live in Colorado Springs, and I've been feeling plateaued on my trad climbing in the 5.10s. I'm looking for a trad project to pick up that is maybe 5.11 up to 12-. That way I am in over my head a bit, take a few good whippers, and really push myself on gear! So I would like something that protects well, but is a good physical/technical challenge preferably closer to Colorado Springs (keep the bolts out of it). I also drive out to BV a lot, and I suspect anything will be a bit of a drive from the Springs. Suggestions?
PS: Great settings and views never hurt!

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

Whimsical Dreams (11b) at Turkey would be a great route to start with. Then do everything else at Turkey also; it is a perfect place for pushing your limits on well-protected granite cracks. Not far from CS either. It does get a lot of sun, and might be a bit too hot this time of year.

mountainproject.com/v/whims…

Ben Sebald · · Rochester, MN · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 1,838

Yeah! Maybe on a cooler day. I haven't climbed at Turkey too much, but what I have done has been great! The left side of the turkey tail looks stacked with tough lines. Thanks!

Mike C · · Co · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 1,046

Whimsical is an excellent choice.also consider in search of unicorns and many others at the turkey tail....only trouble is the heat this time of year.....I believe it does get shade later in the day.the routes up there are amazing!!!!

erik wellborn · · manitou springs · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 355

Sheer Shark Attack on the dark side of Turkey Rock. 5.12 roof. Theres also a couple of hard trad lines on Mt. Manitou and Pikes, but they involve some hiking

Evan C · · Chatty Fatty · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 326
Justin Popplewell · · Manitou Springs, CO · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 300
Adam bloc · · San Golderino, Calirado · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 3,171

I’m looking at Shock the monkey (12a), breakfast In America (11c) and a few others whom names escape me out at 11mi this spring/summer

Craftwork (11c), missippi half step (11d) and bishop crack (12b) at Cathedral spires always intrigue me too

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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