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Trad leading/anchor building courses

Original Post
Dani R · · Golden, CO · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 0

Hi all, I'm hoping someone can give me some suggestions for good trad leading and anchor building courses. I've been climbing for around 10 years (TR to 12a, sport lead to maybe 10.bish outdoors, 11.bish gym), have experience with outdoor sport leading, and used to do some big wall trad and aid following (like 6 years ago though). I've been holding out to find an experienced trad buddy to teach me for years now and it just hasn't happened (my old trad partner moved away and we lost touch), so at this point I've decided to just do one of the multi-day courses. I've been looking at the American Alpine Institute's learning to lead class ( alpineinstitute.com/catalog…), and was wondering if anyone has any feedback on it, or suggestions for others they've liked. I'm also kind of hoping to use this as an excuse to travel somewhere I haven't climbed before for a few days, like the AAI's Squamish location. Any suggestions would be super appreciated! Thanks!

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

talk to colin at squamish rock guides if youre coming up here

you best bet if youre going to spend the money is a private course with a guide with 10+ years experience (not one of those new SPI certified folks)

if you pay for a private course you want someone who can tell you all the stories as well

all the other basics you can learn yourself ... its the stuff the DONT teach you in the books that you pay a guide for

;)

Nicholas Gillman · · Las Vegas · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 327

The AAI is top notch as far as instruction goes , I actually eyed the Learn to lead class originally but the dates/times didn't work for me so I ended up just going fully private on my own time frame(vs the multi-person sort of class setup). Very streamlined professional outfit.

They (The AAI) also provide a lot of instructors/guides for the Red Rock Rendezvous here in Vegas and Ive only ever heard good things about the clinics.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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