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Anyone need a belay bitch?

Original Post
kirstenboardman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2016 · Points: 0

Hello, all.
My name is Kirsten, like k-ear-sten. I'm 22, a female in college and have recently gotten into climbing to overcome summer depression from the ski season ending.
Flat out, I'm a noob.
I wish to not be a noob and learn things. I highly prefer climbing outside as opposed to in since the weather has been so magnificent, but finding experienced people willing to take noobs has become somewhat of a challenge. I never complain, am always willing try whatever, have basically all my own gear except a rope and pro, and will be more than eager to belay in exchange for an opportunity to tag along and learn things. My next goal would be leading easy sport routes because one day I aspire to lead trad.
PLEASEE help a girl out.
kirstenboardman94@gmail.com
8013913973
Cheers,
Kirsten

Brendan N · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 406

The benefit of learning indoors is the ability to try a lot of things quickly in a controlled setting. I would recommend taking some lead classes indoors before you venture out. To plug my own organization, Momentum has female-only classes/events to learn new skills.
Learning a great soft-catch belay indoors will make you a much more desirable candidate for outdoor mentorship.

kirstenboardman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2016 · Points: 0

Thank you for the input!
I have been going to the front and practicing inside since I've started, but it seems a shame to limit myself to inside based on inexperience. I don't have expectations to lead outdoor immediately, but those are my goals for the summer upon further experience. I plan on taking classes soon once my schedule allows, but I still like going outside and learning from all those willing to teach.

Brendan N · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 406

Excellent, you sound proactive for the skills you want to acquire. If you have the money I would highly recommend a guide to teach you traditional skills. They have honed the teaching method to be efficient and thorough. A vague benchmark for leading outdoors in the Wasatch would be 5.10a indoors in my opinion.
What's the origin of your name? I have a friend in Norway with the same spelling.

kirstenboardman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2016 · Points: 0

From some recent emails, I should also classify as what I mean by "noob". 5.5-5.6 trad and 5.8 sport.. that's probably all I've previously been able to get to the top from tr outside without falling.

kirstenboardman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2016 · Points: 0

Brendan, again, thank you for your input and all advice will definitely be put into consideration! I see what you mean from acquiring the ability to climb 5.10a before leading outside since I have heard that 5.10 is where true climbing beings, however, though I plan on pursuing indoor training of which is easily accomplished independently, I do still want outside climbing opportunities of which I cannot easily pursue independently.
I understand that climbing inside will expand my skills more rapidly and I do want that, but that's not my main intention. I want to find an outdoor sport that I love as much as skiing for the summertime. I feel that climbing is probably it. I primarily wish to spend my time outside this summer, so if I can do that and expand my climbing skills in addition to learning inside that would be ideal.

I wish I had a cool story about my name. My parents found it last minute in a baby book and thought it was cool. I actually have a French heritage.

Also, hobo Greg, thank you for responding. I've never reached out specifically to a climbing community such as this for help, but I'm hoping some will accept me haha. I'm glad that you think that learning inside is not my only hope.

Again, thanks, and I appreciate all comments and input. Keep it coming!

JK- Branin · · NYC-ish · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 56

My two cents: True climbing begins whenever you're having fun.

As to the original topic: If you're in the Salt Lake area you'd always be welcome to join in with myself and the friends I climb with. Couple of knowledgeable long time climbers who don't climb particularly hard, and a couple of people more towards the just starting out end of the spectrum. We climb sport or trad depending on the mood, and the two of us that are the most experienced actually enjoy teaching/mentoring as much as we enjoy climbing. Plus, a large-ish, often rotating, mixed gender, mixed schedule, mixed interest, sort of group gives lots of options for future climbing partners. We usually head out in a group of 2-3, but sometimes more. Occasionally we climb in the Weber or Utah Valleys as well.

Shoot me a PM if interested and I'll make sure to invite you next time we're out (probably an evening Monday-Wednesday sometime)

Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 1,375

Hi Kirsten! Glad you've caught the bug!

You might want to mention what town you're in, unless you really are willing to commute 800 miles for an evening climb! :-)

I started outside, and much prefer it. However, inside is great for when it is too hot, cold, snowy, whatever, to keep and build strength and skills. For women, especially, time in an indoor bouldering cave will really help hand, arm and upper body strength, as well as learning how to not need that strength! Go very, very slowly though, backing off if your hands get tweaky. There's also a lot of camaraderie in the boulder crowd (they tend to run in packs), and you will certainly meet people.

Last, grades are just ball park. If you climb outside with a rope gun to get the rope up something, and back down later, just go for it. Top rope is when you can, and should, work a route as hard as you can. You need experience falling too, or your climbing will be hindered. Probably everyone on here has surprised themselves and ticked a "hard" climb, just by trying!

Best, H.

If you're in/near Boise, you have an invite. We love to take out noobs, and if you are doing trad, by the way, you are not exactly a noob, maybe just someone who needs to climb with more challenging stuff/partners.

goingUp · · over here · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 45

what all this learning in the gym crap? I never touched a plastic wall for the first 3 years I climbed.
If by indoor practice you mean sitting inside (or outside even) with freedom of the hills or another reference and practicing knots and reading about safety than fine. You should do this by the way, there are lots of resources and ways to get better at climbing without actually being on rock (or plastic)
Otherwise why does it matter? controlled environment? what a load of hooey.
Kirsten, Good job reaching out to the community. You'll meet friends, and friends of friends and before you know it you wont hang out with you non climbing friends anymore because you'll be too busy sending 5.12
I have a female friend who got into b/c skiing and climbing by being persistent and continually asking other people to take her out and if she can come. This girl is now a badass, who didnt have a lot of friends into b/c skiing and climbing to begin with.
Classes are a good way to meet other interested people of similar skill level, but are not necessary. If you practice, suck up knowledge, and put yourself out there to climb with and meet new people you be just fine. If your up in pocatello, or make the trip this way, id be happy to climb with you.
Good Luck Kirsten.

Sean C · · SLC · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 225

I agree with gUp. Gyms are good for meeting people but honing outdoor skills, not so much. I would find a copy of Freedom of the Hills and read it a couple times. Finding mentors (who know what they are talking about) can be hard but it seems with the tenacity you have it shouldn't be an issue. Realize these things do take time and everything won't come over night. Trad climbing is an art that can take many years to master. My advice is to take whatever opportunities come to you, ask many questions, and have fun.

See you on the rock!

grog m · · Saltlakecity · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

so your logic is that you cant learn in a gym but you can learn from a book? wtf?

JeffL · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 65

I sent you a text. If you are a fast learner, I'll mentor you for a while. I'm always psyched to watch people progress both on the physical and mental spectrum. I'd recommend that you not learn in a gym If you're interested in trad climbing. I'd teach you to trad climb right from the get go. I've got a weird work schedule, but I'm
sure we can meet up at some point.

goingUp · · over here · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 45
grog m wrote:so your logic is that you cant learn in a gym but you can learn from a book? wtf?

fair question. No. You can learn in a gym... I was trying to dispel the myth that you SHOULD, or that a GYM is somehow BETTER...
Regardless of where you are practicing and climbing (gym or outside), the books and knot tying, and anchor building, and technique reading can and should be supplemental.

Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,419
JeffL wrote:I sent you a text. If you are a fast learner, I'll mentor you for a while. I'm always psyched to watch people progress both on the physical and mental spectrum. I'd recommend that you not learn in a gym If you're interested in trad climbing. I'd teach you to trad climb right from the get go. I've got a weird work schedule, but I'm sure we can meet up at some point.

THIS
&
START CLIMBING outside on real ROCK .
Work up thru the grades following, removing Gear.
At 1st, stay away from sport climbing (It will still be there.)

Learn old school, The leader never falls ( lower grades= lower angle, falls result in hitting ledgers .. . )
three points of contact,
and
how to down climb.

Learn to never let go :(of among other things)
1) the break hand on the belay,
2)the layback as you barn door,
3)the lip before you throw a heel hook up there. . .
4) a good partner if you find one. . . ;`)

A question
What ever happened? did the Green Adjective Buttress get quarried?
Is there still a climb called 'Dangling Participle'?,
V V V V

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,100

Kirsten, come to the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance Fundraiser this next Thursday:

mountainproject.com/v/11185…

A good way to meet folks and see what the local scene is like. Pretty much all over the place.

As for 5.10 climbing comments. There are some great climbs in the Wasatch that are well below that grade are just fun. Should have seen the traffic on Penta-Pitch yesterday. Probably just as much traffic Steorts Ridge. Of course then there are the 5.8s like Satan's Corner or 5.9s like Gordon's that many 5.10 leaders whimper.

Creed Archibald · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,026

We are moving to SLC in a few weeks. My wife is a total badass and experienced trad climber. She's also a big fan of climbing with other women. Whenever she sees some 5 foot girl in the gym getting yelled at by her boyfriend about "reaching higher," she swoops and gives girl-beta. I know when we get to the valley, she will want to knock out all the moderate classics. She might be willing to take you around if you are motivated.

JK- Branin · · NYC-ish · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 56
goingUp wrote: fair question. No. You can learn in a gym... I was trying to dispel the myth that you SHOULD, or that a GYM is somehow BETTER... Regardless of where you are practicing and climbing (gym or outside), the books and knot tying, and anchor building, and technique reading can and should be supplemental.

Opinion: Learning is best done in as many theaters as possible. Gym. Outside. Books. Preferably with many different people, gyms, books, etc. Better base, less chance of picking up one other persons bad habits, more "right" ways learned to choose from. Etc.

Personal book recommendation: How to Climb-John Long. Lame title. Excellent book on climbing. Plus Largo is an entertaining writer, and a serious badass climber.

kirstenboardman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2016 · Points: 0

Holy hell! I'm already super impressed with this community, you guys are awesome! Thank you all for the responses, emails and texts. I was not expecting this much willingness to help at all.
Good point about location- I live in Salt Lake City, but am frequently in Ogden and willing to drive to other places in the area.
I really appreciate all the advice and input.
I will definitely get ahold of those that mentioned being willing to take me if y'all haven't contacted me first(:
Again, THANK YOU

Jaden Lojik · · Midvale, Utah · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 10

I know I'm late to this party and I'm not trying to hijack it, But I thought I would just hop in real fast. If any Experienced Traditional climbers are still looking for(or doesn't mind) a Trad Follower a.k.a.";a belay bitch";, I would be more than willing to fill that position for you! I'm just wanting to learn Trad climbing, and I need someone to follow for a bit and then critique my placements when the time come. Anyway, just PM me if you would be willing! Thanks!

Some slight insight to what I can climb
Sport climb up to 5.11a
Bouldering up to v4
Longest multipitch route was 22 pitches(squawstruck)
+ Fast Learner

Karl Kvashay · · Northeast PA · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 230

Good luck Jaden, but something tells me you might not get the same response as the young lady... Is that wrong?... just sayin....

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Jaden Lojik wrote:I know I'm late to this party and I'm not trying to hijack it,

Except that you are hijacking it. You should post your own request (even if the OP doesn't mind).

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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