Chamonix climbing partners/info needed.

Hey y'all I'm heading to Cham may 22- June 9th, looking for sport climbing partners and someone to go up Mont Blanc with, I'll have a rope and draws and mountaineering equipment, I'd love to jump on trad if some one else has a rack and I'm open to traveling to arco or other spots nearby , on sport I lead high 11s low 12s , trad I can lead 9/10, I boulder v5/6...I have a good amount of mountaineering exp. I'm flying in and out of Lyon , any info, beta, tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated, thanks y'all!

I'll be around the northern French Alps then, so it would be fun to meet and at least swap stories + ideas -- maybe even climb together (especially Sport).

Will you have a car?

I'll have a pretty complete set of guidebooks for the southeast quadrant of France (and much of adjoining Italy), 2 x 60m half ropes, 70m single rope, and alpine climbing gear (but not serious ice). Haven't decided whether to bring a full Trad rack, or a lighter "alpine" set.

Here's my previous climbs in France:
roberts-1.com/c/c/fr

Arco is nowhere "nearby", but not to worry: There's several lifetimes of great Sport climbing in the 5.11-12 range much closer to Chamonix.

There's a few good Trad multi-pitch granite routes in the 9/10 range at Chamonix, but to have a really good range of choices, you want to be solid at 5.10 on both cracks and slabs.

Ken

Hey Kevin,

I'm planning on attempting Mont Blanc around the same time frame and am looking for a partner. I've got some solid glacier travel experience and just finished a summit of Pico De Orizaba (18,400). Let me know if you're interested!

Email: geordialm@gmail.com

Hey ken I'd love to jump on some sport shoot me an email , I'm thinkin about getting a car not sure yet, idrivebetsy@yahoo.com

hi Kevin,

Just sent you an Email.

No car works if you confine yourself to near Chamonix (That's one of the key advantages for why so many climbing visitors base there).

If you want the freedom to sample climbing more widely (or just escape for a few days to dry-er weather), then don't get too overawed by the supposed efficiency of public transportation in Europe. Just because it works for general tourist destinations doesn't mean that it's so good for getting you to climbing spots in a timely or cost-effective way.

Ken

P.S. I had already sent you a private message to your MountainProject ID. You might want to check how that's working (or not) for your ID.

Geordi Alm wrote:I'm planning on attempting Mont Blanc around the same time frame and am looking for a partner.

You might want to say something about which ascent (and descent) routes you're hoping to try for Mont Blanc. The three most popular routes from the France side ... each is very different from the others in starting point, aspect/snow/ice + serac/avalanche/rockfall conditions, and character. Or maybe you intend a more interesing (difficult?) less popular route. Some say the routes from the Italy side are more spectacular and interesting (and difficult).

Another possible goal to consider ...
I climbed "le vrai Mont Blanc" (the real Mont Blanc).
As the first ascensionists, I started from the center plaza of Chamonix city (in the middle of the night), and climbed to the top of Mont Blanc (with skis much of the way) without using any mechanical lifts or railways. In a single push without stopping or sleeping or re-supplying at any hut or refuge.

Turned out that two other guys (from Austria and Switzerland) climbed M.B. in the same style on that same night and day, and I met them.

A variation (also without mechanical lifts or railway) is to start a bit higher, at the MB Tunnel entrance. Though not strenuous or difficult, navigating the trails from Chamonix to the trailhead by the Tunnel entrance is non-trivial -- not something you want to be figuring out for the first time in a hurry in the dark. Starting by the Tunnel entrance avoids that (but of course removes the simplicity of your bragging rights).

Ken

There's a good amount of "alpine sport" on the opposite side of the valley in the Aiguilles Rouges, for climbing longer routes without a rack. I'd recommend Le Fin du Babylone and the route to its left (sorry forgot the name) on Le Brevant... both are about 11a/b, 8 pitches, and really high quality.

Hey , ill have a car! And the weather in Cham looks horrible this week was thinking about heading south or somewhere else to climb maybe Spain.

The weather does look pretty bad up there in the coming days.

We'll be attempting MB via the Gouter Route early next week (between the 31st and 3rd). We have 4 days in Chamonix, and hoping for a good 2 day weather window.

Does anyone have any experience in that area who can give some advice on the current snowfall creating avalanche concerns on the Gouter Route? Seems like nearly 30" are to fall on Sunday (the 30th).

Any help is appreciated!

I'm not there and don't have any first-hand info, but if the forecast materializes (and even if it doesn't), I'd strongly suggest you go to the OHM and ask them about the conditions and the avalanche danger. In my experience they aren't unnecessarily conservative, and will be able to give you a fair and honest assessment. Now, having talked to them you might well decide to proceed even if they advise/caution against it, but at least you'll know better what to expect.

I'm going to the mountain hut tmr to see what they think, would it be possible to jump in with your group whenever you guys decide to go? Are you skiing in?

Kevin,

It would be possible (just a friend and I). We are not skiing in...although it's early in the season we didn't expect so much snow. The plan was to get dropped off at the Bellevue Hotel (we'll have a rental car...or take a taxi), and start by foot from there following up the tramway's tracks, spend the night at Gouter, summit the following day, and hike back down to the Bellevue Hotel.

We are still trying to determine the logistics / if it's possible to be dropped off at the hotel, but we think it is. (maybe)

We've seen somewhere also that it might be possible to get to Nid D'Aigle via a 4 wheel drive taxi. This would be ideal as Bellevue to Nid D'Aigle adds 1,800' of elevation gain due to the tram being closed this early in the season.

Kevin, is this something you might be able to ask around about in town? To see if a 4WD taxi can/will take climbers that high?

And thank you for the tip Sergey.

Yea I'm heading around to the mountain house in a few , I'll ask.

I am camping in argentiere and will be in the area until sept
22. Looking for experienced partner. Can lead up to 6a but
don't have much equipment with me. I am the last tent in the
Campgroun. Small green one with bicycle. Mike