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Eric and Lucie
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Dec 11, 2015
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Boulder, CO
· Joined Oct 2004
· Points: 140
I just saw and tried on a pair of the new Butora Altura shoes. I like the fit (better arch than the uber-flat TC Pro...), but I am curious about their proprietary rubber... Has anyone tried these shoes on rock? Any feedback? Thanks!
http://butorausa.com/altura-trad-tiger-lilly-regular/
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michalm
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Jan 20, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2014
· Points: 824
The shoe is fairly stiff. If you are used to the clumsy, fat toe profile of the TC pro, this will feel familiar. I have used this shoe on a couple OWs, some technical face and stemming, and a handcrack. I have the wide (green) version of this shoe in 42.5, but the overall toe profile (height of the toebox) should be nearly the same as the narrow version. I am used to climbing in mocs and anasazis, so I found the shoe's ability to jam anything smaller than a handcrack to be lacking, which I'm sure is the case for TC Pros. Being a high-top, the shoe doesn't twist as much as my ankle would like it to, making jamming somewhat awkward. However, the ankle padding is good and I was able to use some ankle scums on Girls Just Wanna Have Guns that I would never have tried with mocs for fear of bloody ankles. The rubber on this shoe is pretty soft. It feels softer and mushier than C4 and seems to slowly creep off granite edges on warm days. Even though it is so soft, it doesn't feel as grippy as C4. I look forward to resoling the shoe with Onyxx rubber to truly get some edging performance out of this shoe.
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skye bacus
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Feb 6, 2016
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Lakewood, CO
· Joined Mar 2013
· Points: 140
I have a pair (green, wide) but haven't climbed in them yet. They are a little tight.. how much do these typically stretch? I get a hotspot in the toe area on my foot that is slightly larger.
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Jon Rhoderick
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Feb 6, 2016
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OR
· Joined Jul 2009
· Points: 966
I tried them on a few months ago. My friends roommate is a rep for them. Great fit, more aggressive than the Astroman, which I think has gotten more symmetrical. They use high quality german leather with uniform thickness, and their use of toe rubber seems ideal for crack climbing, a fair amount but not too thick. They also have a board lasted model with a memory foam tongue, very comfy appearently popular with YOSAR. The company is new but has many members of previous shoe companies that have done well and the experience definitely there. I think their challenge will be trying to convince people that their shoes made in Korea are as good quality and cool looking as US Italian and Spanish companies
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Joey Jarrell
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Mar 3, 2016
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SLC
· Joined Jun 2013
· Points: 145
So, how do they stretch after break in? If I size comfortably, will they get sloppy?
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Joey Jarrell
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Mar 4, 2016
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SLC
· Joined Jun 2013
· Points: 145
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Joey Jarrell
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Mar 4, 2016
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SLC
· Joined Jun 2013
· Points: 145
I wasn't sure how a hemp lining would react. I am familiar with traditionally lined shoes.
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Joey Jarrell
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Mar 4, 2016
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SLC
· Joined Jun 2013
· Points: 145
At least they will be comfortable and painless!
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Joey Jarrell
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Mar 6, 2016
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SLC
· Joined Jun 2013
· Points: 145
Ordered a pair of 42.5s, hoping that they will stretch
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Joey Jarrell
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Mar 6, 2016
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SLC
· Joined Jun 2013
· Points: 145
I tried them on and fit 43 loosely, so that I could wear socks. Decided on the 42.5 with stretch. Seller said they'd stretch a half size. Also I always get my shoes resoled prior to blowing the toe cap. No one likes spending extra money or a pair!
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Steve M
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Mar 27, 2016
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Poulsbo, WA
· Joined May 2015
· Points: 106
Locker wrote: No idea about the rubber, only know that it isn't C4 and should be. LOL! I actually got a deal on a pair of Butora's Acro shoes (just showed up yesterday) and I would say the rubber is my number one complaint. Fresh out of the box they couldn't hold toe scums like my other shoes, even though the rubber is a softer consistency. Other than that they're great, but I'll look forward to getting them resoled with something stickier. EDIT: After getting out a bit more I'd say the rubber is killer on granite, but wears quickly. Performed better than MadRock R3 and C4 while bouldering at Leavenworth, but was not appreciably better than either on basalt. The rubber really molds to the rock but if you slip it'll take chunks out.
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Forthright
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May 4, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2011
· Points: 110
I haven't put a whole ton of climbing into mine yet but the OW I've done with them I love them so far!
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skye bacus
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May 17, 2016
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Lakewood, CO
· Joined Mar 2013
· Points: 140
I ended up returning my pair for a different size and have done a couple of multipitches in them now.. they are SO COMFY. I sized them with the expectation that the length would not change, but opted for the orange (regular) version instead of the green (wide) with the expectation that they would stretch in the width. So far, this seems to be a good fit. Can't wait to put some reaaaally long days on them this summer! As for the rubber, my initial impression is that they felt bomber on Lumpy Ridge granite and a little slippery on Eldo sandstone. I need more days in them to get a better feel.
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Arin F
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Jun 5, 2016
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Las Vegas
· Joined Oct 2011
· Points: 64
I have the low top (Mantra) wide fit (went half size up) and love them so much I ordered the mids (altura). The wide fit mid-top Altura seemed to run bigger than the Mantra so I went with the regular fit Altura at my street shoe size. I probably should have gone down a half size in case they stretch. Time will tell. I think the mid-top runs bigger because it lacks the insole that the mantra has. Rubber seems comparable to c4. The Altura has replaced TC-Pro's for me.
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Tradgic Yogurt
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Jun 20, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined May 2016
· Points: 55
Haven't tried them, went with Mantras since the Mantras were noticeably wider in the toe box (as in, I could get them on and lace them up). Reasonably comfy, but I put my old Mythos on yesterday, and even with a blown out toe and worn down rubber, all I can say is ... just go with a pair of Mythos, more sticky and way more comfortable.
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Forthright
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Jun 20, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2011
· Points: 110
After climbing in them more. Great for hands and wider cracks, especially OW due to their stiffness. Not really digging them for other climbing though, there is just something about the toebox with how they flex, and feel underfoot that makes me not dig them. And it's not just because they're stiff as I love my pinkies for edgy face climbing.
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skye bacus
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Jun 20, 2016
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Lakewood, CO
· Joined Mar 2013
· Points: 140
I've logged quite a bit of time in them on granite. Absolutely love them for long trad days on everything from flaring finger/hand cracks to wide stuff. SO COMFY. They are bomber. I've tried them for sport climbing on granite on techy 11s and wouldn't recommend them for face climbing just because they are really stiff and I like more sensitivity underfoot. But that's personal preference. Still don't like them on sandstone. They feel slippery. EDIT: After some seriously long days and getting them nice and broken in, I changed my mind and I do love wearing them in Eldo. I love wearing them here, I love wearing them there, I love wearing them everywhere!
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Arin F
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Jun 21, 2016
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Las Vegas
· Joined Oct 2011
· Points: 64
Great on granite for sure. I've been loving them for sandstone as well. Been wearing these shoes out on Red Rock (Vegas) sandstone. Cruised Epinephrine chimneys a few weeks back.
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Joey Jarrell
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Jun 21, 2016
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SLC
· Joined Jun 2013
· Points: 145
I have not used mine enough to develop an opinion on the rubber. They fit great though. They feel really good. I have not had any issues with them yet, just haven't used them enough!
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Chris D
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Jul 20, 2016
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the couch
· Joined Apr 2009
· Points: 2,231
Tradgic Yogurt wrote:Haven't tried them, went with Mantras since the Mantras were noticeably wider in the toe box (as in, I could get them on and lace them up). Reasonably comfy, but I put my old Mythos on yesterday, and even with a blown out toe and worn down rubber, all I can say is ... just go with a pair of Mythos, more sticky and way more comfortable. Are you saying that the width of their wide shoe is comparable to standard Mythos? I'm considering these, as 5.10 no longer makes the Spire (my go-to all-day multi shoe) and I'm looking for a replacement to fit my wide feet. I've tried on mythos multiple times and found them too narrow. Do they stretch a lot?
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Chris D
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Jul 20, 2016
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the couch
· Joined Apr 2009
· Points: 2,231
Locker wrote: Have you tried Five Ten Coyotes? Like Spires, they're a decent "All around", unlined (they'll stretch!) shoe, already fitted with C4. The last time I went to the 5.10 "underground" store down the street, I was so bummed to see their new line of shoes that i must have missed that they still make the coyotes. Adidas has not done well by them. Mostly because i'm a cheap bastard and there are no longer any "deals" on shoes, even though it's a much more "legit" store than they used to have at the warehouse, back when 5.10 was still a cool local shoe outfit (even if their shoes fell apart).
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