Peru in May?

Hey all!

I'm looking to climb in Peru in May and wondering if anyone is going to be near Huaraz? I've been living and working and climbing down in Patagonia for the past few months, but climbing season is officially over down here and am looking for a new adventure (and some sunshine). If you are going to be in Peru, let me know! I climb sport, not opposed to trad by any means, just haven't tried yet. I have all my own equipment except a rope and I only a few quickdraws. Looking to get outside as much as possible in the next month, let me know if you will be around.

Cheers,
Elyse

Stop in and hang out at the California Cafe.. you'll find partners in no time, have fun!

Hi Elyse,

I will be in Huaraz by myself from April 22 - June 15. My intentions are to get into the mountains but rock climbing could be a nice way to stay active. I have my rock shoes, harness, and a single rack but no rope.

me@shanerathbun.com
facebook.com/srathbun

I can't help with partners, but I can help with beta. It's still a bit early for rock season in Peru, but you've got a couple options.

Los Olivos is a small crag only 5-10 minutes away from central Huaraz by taxi. It can be a bit hard to find so do some research first. Essentially, you hop out of the taxi in a residential neighborhood and walk down a steep flight of stairs through an alleyway to a river bank, at the bottom turn right and walk upstream until you can boulder hop across the river, then walk back uphill trending left towards the crag - it will be visible. The rock is absolute choss and the anchors are mediocre. Definitely bring some extra quicklinks to leave on anchor bolts so you don't have to rappel off bare hangers.

I also just did a lengthy write up on Hatun Machay which is the best sport climbing in the entire country. Full info dump here: mountainproject.com/v/condi…

Ropes can be rented from any of the guide services in Huaraz or from the Refugio if you make the trip down to Hatun Machay. Check them well before leaving the shop. They are not always in good shape.

Oh and also, don't drink the water unless you boil it first. Peru does not have functional municipal sanitation. It's a problem for locals as well. Seriously. You will be sick as a dog. This means no fruit unless it can be peeled. No fresh juice. Even dishes/silverware at restaurants are suspect because they were washed in the water and air dried. Brush your teeth with bottled water. I spent a month in Peru earlier this year and I am literally the ONLY person I met who did not spend a solid 5-7 days shitting their brains out. Multiple friends of mine have had entire trips ruined by stomach bugs. I can't stress it enough.

Thanks dudes for alll the awesome beta!!

Shane, sent you an email! And thanks Jon, your beta saved me countless hours searching the web for info about hatun machay! I can't wait to get up there and climb. One last questions, idk if you'll k now, but can I camp near the crag at Hatun Machay and not at the refugio? I'm not opposed to camping at the refugio, but I'm a cheap dirtbag climber. IDK if it's kosher to just pitch a tent where ever... I don't want to be disrespectful of the land or the local people!

Thanks again for the info guys :)

You can't. The refugio exists as agreement with the local community as the only place people can sleep, and it is a fragile relationship. But you know, you may find a way, things in South America can be very flexible ;)

I would caution the ladies down in Huaraz intending to climb with Shane. He's an extremely good looking dude and you might not be able to concentrate on your climbing while you are within his aura of masculinity. Don't let that smile lure you in ladies. Focus on the rocks and the mountains. You have fairly been warned!