Approach shoe suggestions

I've never done the approach shoe thing, but I am looking to get a pair for some climbing plans this summer.

Looking for a shoe that will hike well and climb good too. Will be for climbing alpine rock routes, 5.8 or so, in the Sierras and Cascades this summer...Hoping to do the approach and climbing in one pair of shoes.

I have a La Sportiva foot shape.

Any good recommendations?

How much support do you want?

I've been using Boulder-Xs for a few years. I have low volume feet and I like the full length laces. They are stout, and I use them for 4th class.

Like many things, there is a tradeoff between comfort/support and sensitivity/climbing performance.

The shoes that hike better are clunkier and give you more support, especially with a pack on.

That said, I don't climb in my approach shoes, but they are helpful for slabby approaches and descents. Since most of my time is spent hiking in my approach shoes, I like the Camp Fours (which aren't La Sportiva)

I have used Boulder X, Xplorer and Mix. They are all good. My experience leads me to think the Mix climbs better than Xplorer, which climbs better than Boulder X.

Bought a pair of Evolv Cruzer Psyche's from a dude on here, actually.

I like them a lot, and I can climb V0/V1 in them which is what I wanted them for. They're pretty thin though, and dont have any real ankle support so I'm not sure they'd do well for Alpine stuff. I love them though.

christoph benells wrote:I've never done the approach shoe thing, but I am looking to get a pair for some climbing plans this summer. Looking for a shoe that will hike well and climb good too. Will be for climbing alpine rock routes, 5.8 or so, in the Sierras and Cascades this summer...Hoping to do the approach and climbing in one pair of shoes. I have a La Sportiva foot shape. Any good recommendations?

For hiking I like the camp 4's, they are pretty supportive and climb okay (I've climbed up to about 10a in them). For a more climbing centered approach shoe or for shorter approaches I use the guide tennis, I've climbed up to about 11a in these and they climb fairly well for not being a dedicated climbing shoe. Obviously, neither of these are sportiva, but IMO, foot shape isn't nearly as important in an approach shoe as in a climbing shoe. Go try on a bunch of different pairs and see what ones fit best, then decide how much support vs sensitivity you want and go from there.

I'm a huge fan of Inov-8 shoes - they have awesome rubber, sticky as hell, and are super sensitive. That means that they're rubbish on edges as they bend too much (Tennies rock on that front) but they're awesome on trails and boulder hopping, and totally kick ass on slabs. British brand so not sure how easy they might be to pick up in your neck of the woods...

I have the Arcteryx Acrux FL GTX (gore-tex version) and they are wonderful. Easily the most comfortable hiking shoe I've ever worn. They are extremely grippy, even on sandy or wet terrain, plus the waterproofing is pretty awesome. They'll do great in the alpine, but they can get a bit too hot in warmer climates. I highly recommend them.

5.10 Guide Tennies imo are the best of all worlds.

The new TX series of approach shoes from Sportiva has a pretty rad new last. I have a pair of the TX2 and they are definitely light and comfy, but can not match the edging power of the Guide Tennie. Smearing and crack though is good. Maybe the all leather version or half and half (tx4 and tx3) would be stiffer since it's on a different midsole.

I used the xplorer last year, it's stiffer plastic heel cup did not accommodate my haglunds deformity (bone spur on heel well) so I've gone back to the scarpa crux.

The xplorer has a stiffer sole than the boulder x or crux and edges much better. This also made it better at kicking steps in snow on early season approaches. It is mesh and will breath well, but obviously wet out in sustained snow. However it dries quickly, my partners boulder X were wet after an evening by the campfire, my xplorers were dry. They will hold up as well jamming cracks vs. the boulder x or crux. If you go through much scree the xplorer has full gussets and won't let rocks in, the boulder x and crux do not.

If you want an approach shoe that truly climbs well you may be able to find gandas on closeout. My friend used them on most all of Stuarts complete north ridge and found they climbed the 5.9 pitches excellent. I was envious of his comfort during the climb. He was envious of everyone else's comfy toes on the long hike out, the thinner toes aren't so night if you're in for the long haul.

What size shoe are you? I'll let you check out my Scarpa Vitamins next time we climb together.

The Sportiva TX3 looks like it could be a good option if you prefer the LS fit. I also just recently saw a picture of a pair of LS Mutants with an approach shoe sole on Rock & Resole's Facebook page. I'm almost tempted to go that route myself.

Salewa wildfire

La Sportiva Ganda.
I know...WAY EXPENSIVE.
I got a pair on some great deal somewhere. They are hands down the best "climbing" approach shoe. Seriously, you can climb hard stuff in these, 5.10 is definitely within grade. They hike decently too. But they climb like you would expect from La Sportiva.

Love my new Scarpa Vitamins, on sale all over the place now but still pricey. I expect them to hold up pretty well. I fear Scarpa is going to discontinue them.

Edit to add: I also have the Boulder X, they climb about the same as the Vitamins, but the Vs hike much better. The Mythos-style heel on the X is the best heel out there, but wears out on the inside.

I bought the Scarpa Crux but popped an eyelet in the first climb. Neptune took them back. I didn't really like them for either hiking or climbing.

Five tens are not a good fit for my skinny, long feet.

5.10 guide is my shoe of choice work great sticks great have never felt unsecure with them on scrambling around Joshua Tree. Have even done a few 5.8 slab climbs in them

thanks for all the suggestions,

leaning toward a la sportiva,

but it seems like the guide tennie is the de facto approach shoe.

i like my Asics Gel Blurr 33. super comfy.

For whatever reason, I found the Boulder-X to be unstable and I rolled my ankle a lot in those shoes while hiking. I think it was something to do with the foam support under the arch and heel. I do not recommend.

The Scarpa gecko guide climbs very well and is great for jamming. It has a narrower toe box though so it gave me blisters on long approaches.

5.10 guide tennie is my preferred shoe for hiking and scrambling, mainly due to light weight and a wider toe box so I never get rub spots. It does not climb as well IMO.

Like most things in life, its going to be a trade-off between climbing and hiking performance.

Any thing but the new guide tennies, the sole and the leather is super fine and wont take any abuse, I tore a huge hole in the leather upper and the sole has cracked because the rubber was too fine. I currently use la sportiva hyper mid GTX and they are significantly burlier and better quality than five ten (solo 5.7 in them easy), I would say the ganda guide is the best approach shoe on the market though, good climbing ability, good quality, good tread on the heel, couldn't ask for more.
edit: How do you intend on moving on the 5.8? solo, simul or just standard pitches.

that guy named seb wrote:... I would say the ganda guide is the best approach shoe on the market though, good climbing ability, good quality, good tread on the heel, couldn't ask for more.

Couldn't agree more. Their only shortcoming is that they're huge and bulky hanging from your harness, but they're awesome when they're actually on your feet