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Fixed Rope Taken Off Trick Are For Kids

Paul Irby · · moab, ut · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 157

C'mon Steven, don't you know the rules? You're only allowed to leave fixed lines if you're a pro-jock with your picture all over the mags. I told you before that you would advance your cause if you spent less time climbing and more time in the Attic drinking and spraying.

Kangaru Rat · · Under a Rock · Joined May 2008 · Points: 0

Ah - The gradual degradation of style and what is considered acceptable. Indian Creek used to be an adventure area where you picked a line guessed your rack and sucked it up, then a common trad area with well-known climbs, now it seems that sport tactics are being considered normal by some. If you want to work a route over time then at least re-lead it on aid rather than leaving your shit around.

Pnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 635
BillS wrote: The Google says they moved there in 1967 - before rock climbing, before pavement, before you were born, long before masses of self absorbed shitheads started flocking there.

Word. The Redd family, which Heidi married into, has been grazing Beef Basin since the 1890s. She has also been the best case scenario for sustainable grazing in this area. Unless you're a Paiute, you have absolutely no grounds to complain about them.

Larry Harpe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 43
Paul Irby wrote:C'mon Steven, don't you know the rules? You're only allowed to leave fixed lines if you're a pro-jock with your picture all over the mags. I told you before that you would advance your cause if you spent less time climbing and more time in the Attic drinking and spraying.

Lol

A lot of you guys are making a mountain out of a mole hill. Carry on.

salmo trutta · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 45

hey, I was out at this climb on Saturday with some friends and I didn't appreciate the note on our cars accusing/asking if we stole your gear. no, we didn't. good luck......

Scott Bennett · · Western North America · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 1,265

I think that this is an interesting debate. Climbing is inherently pretty anarchic and anti-authoritarian, so it's cool to see how ethics and standards emerge from the community.

A few thoughts:

-In my opinion, leaving up fixed lines is a gray area. One can understand the appeal and convenience of leaving the rope, and Tricks wall is somewhat obscure. Even if the rope is not interfering with the anchor or climb, however, it can detract from the aesthetic experience of others.

-It's not such an obvious violation of the community standards that it would justify the "punishment" of confiscating the rope. I can't see why those climbers wouldn't simply leave the rope coiled at the base of the route. Maybe there was some rationale, it sounds like they did try to return it by leaving it at the Beef Basin message board, I guess I don't know enough to fully judge... I hope that whoever has Steve's gear now will try to return it.

-As far as I know, Tricks is on public land, and the proximity to ranchers seems irrelevant. It really seems like a stretch to imagine them so offended by the sight of a distant rope, on adjacent public land, that they would make an effort to remove it.

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So, my take: Steve was in an ethical gray area by leaving up his fixed line, but not so much to justify maligning him here or stealing his rope. The only potential harm that he caused was perhaps infringing on other climbers' aesthetic experience on the route, akin to leaving ugly tickmarks on a project. So I think he's right to make inquiries and seek the return of his gear, but should be more sensitive about leaving fixed ropes in the future.

-Scott

Sir Camsalot · · thankgodchickenhead, Ut · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 201
salmo trutta wrote:hey, I was out at this climb on Saturday with some friends and I didn't appreciate the note on our cars accusing/asking if we stole your gear. no, we didn't. good luck......

Tell me this didn't actually happen....please? pretty please?

Pnelson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 635
salmo trutta wrote:hey, I was out at this climb on Saturday with some friends and I didn't appreciate the note on our cars accusing/asking if we stole your gear. no, we didn't. good luck......

Which was it, "accusing" or "asking?"

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
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