Ground Fall at Mac Wall Gunks March 13

There was a ground fall at the mac wall late afternoon of sunday march 13th(maybe around 5). I was at the top of Strickly second pitch, and was getting ready to rap when I heard someone shout "fall" and witnessed a climber fall from fairly high, off balance, back first. We walked over to mac wall after in maybe 15 mins, and ranger/medic was checking the climber. He was conscious, cohesive, responsive, and seemed unhurt in general. The climb was birdie party first pitch. There was no gear on the initial thin crack/seam crux, and there were two pieces after that section(after you travers a little to the right). The highest piece is probably like 15-20 feet up, but I am bad at estimating those.

I am hoping the climber was indeed okay as it seemed, and also interested in the circumstances leading to the accident if anyone knows.

Replying to follow

fatum wrote:There was a ground fall at the mac wall late afternoon of sunday march 13th(maybe around 5). I was at the top of Strickly second pitch, and was getting ready to rap when I heard someone shout "fall" and witnessed a climber fall from fairly high, off balance, back first. We walked over to mac wall after in maybe 15 mins, and ranger/medic was checking the climber. He was conscious, cohesive, responsive, and seemed unhurt in general. The climb was birdie party first pitch. There was no gear on the initial thin crack/seam crux, and there were two pieces after that section(after you travers a little to the right). The highest piece is probably like 15-20 feet up, but I am bad at estimating those. I am hoping the climber was indeed okay as it seemed, and also interested in the circumstances leading to the accident if anyone knows.

for reference. The first pitch is popular on its own as a 5.8. It heads up a thin seam for maybe 15' before traversing right and then heading back up again.

I hope the climber is OK.

Not that it was an issue here, but the initial climbing can be tricky to protect given the seam and then traverse early on. I remember thinner gear, and a nut there that may hold a downward pull may not stay put once gear is off to the side after the traverse. That piece pulling could then add some extra distance to a leader fall.

I was on the first pitch of Something Interesting approaching the 2nd crux when he fell (40ft right of me?). Heard a loud "Ping" and then the sack-of-potatoes sound that bodies make when they hit the ground. I honestly thought he was dead because I had just passed him and knew how high up he was. The climber is fine. Bruised up, possible broken thumb, pretty good cut in his ankle, but otherwise fine. He was just above the little bulge (~30ft?) and slipped. One piece blew and absorbed much of the fall, and I believe the first piece might have blown as well, but no gear actually caught him. He was checked out by paramedics. As an aside, he is a very competent climber, climbing well below his grade. A reminder that accidents can happen at any time to any one of us.

Someone decked early Sunday morning on Enduro man also. Guy worked through the crux but failed to get gear. He had a crash pad but mostly missed it unfortunately. He hurt his back with nothing too serious but probably broke/seriously sprained his ankle. It was a really really loud thud. Guy really lucked out man!

This thread makes me think how potentially inappropriate it is, all the internet meet-ups for climbing.... A lot of people climbing with strangers these days... Could make for a strange situation.

Tylerpratt wrote:Someone decked early Sunday morning on Enduro man also. Guy worked through the crux but failed to get gear. He had a crash pad but mostly missed it unfortunately. He hurt his back with nothing too serious but probably broke/seriously sprained his ankle. It was a really really loud thud. Guy really lucked out man!

After the pitch one crux there is no gear to get until the belay ledge.

Ok.

We did trailwork near Enduroman a while back and watched people on it. Some hairy moments, that! Glad that person isn't hurt worse, and also really glad the other climber was not injured badly.

Haven't done the first pitch of Enduro Man but I have looked it over-- it is a totally different animal from Birdie Party, which I have led several times.

After the initial starting crack, which does have gear (though it is tricky), Birdie Party has bomber placements in horizontals at regular intervals.

I'm sorry to hear about the accidents and wish the climbers in both incidents a swift and complete recovery.

But I would hesitate to say what happened on BP could happen to anyone-- there is good gear there. You shouldn't deck from 30 feet up.

Climbing with strangers is always a gamble. I got short roped and yanked off a climb by a stranger I met at the crag many years before the internet. There used to be notes on the kiosk for partners at the gunks and cathedral and probobly every other busy crag in the country. the communication is much easier now but the end result is still climbing with a stranger.

On Enduro-mans. ,I think, it used to be that a #3 HB brass off-set went in below the crux; in the seam,
if I remember the low crux was ( 2 moves up & right?)''''?
one could shimmey up the tree, sling it, ( is there still a tree? )
so that with doubles, -variable- (& a loose belay with the rope running Over your shoulder)
You had a fair chance of not slapping the ground,
to hard if you blew it, Don't blow it,
Your milage, on that one, may vary . . .

As in all things in climbing it depends on multiple factors, humidity, clean shoes,
weight, (strength of the tree in this case). is there still a tree?
Can you see a way to protect a thin section?
Do you see opportunity? Is marginal pro, or psychological pro worth it?

the bottom is the mental crux,
but I think it is the upper tier that is the hard .11 crux?

the gear down low on BP in the initial section is bomber, you just might need to work a little of gear in the crack. Once you finish the initial moves straight up, there is no doubter easy to get in great gear before traversing. After that its pretty much G rated. I am glad to hear that there are no serious injuries and that the climber will quickly recover. That said decking on that climb really should not happen.

With respect to meeting climber on the internet, I have had great experience with this. Its the climbers responsibility to be able to vet prospective partners in a responsible way. It shouldn't be that diffifuclt to look a someones posts and experience and get an idea for who they are. Start out nice and easy to confirm that what you think about the new partner is actually true. I've partnered up through Mountain Project at least 15 times and have never had a bad experience. Its just like leading, know what you are doing.