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Would you lie?

Original Post
Fehim Hasecic · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 215

So, I was at the base of Yellow Spur with couple of friends to climb it. Two guys show up, and we struck up a conversation, it turns out one of them climbed it 6 times and he brought his friend to do it too. Well, to be nice and not to slow them down, we let them go ahead of us. Of course, guy that didn't climb it started leading first pitch, it took him half an hour or so. Just standing there and watching him, I was already regretting our kindness. Lo and behold the guy that climbed it 6 times, did the variation of second pitch, i don't think because he wanted to. I followed him, but the whole time I felt, nay I knew, that I wasn't on the original 2nd pitch. Anyway, they slowed us enough, instead of vice versa, that two of us got caught in a rain storm on the bolt pitch. We had to yard up the rope to get to the belay. So, would you do that, would you lie to get on a line? Why? After that I'm sticking with the early bird gets the worm. If you are that good, you can pass me on the rock any time of the day, couldn't care less.

Jan Tarculas · · San Diego, Ca · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 947

Once on the rock/route I have never let anyone really past me. I've had my fair share of being stuck behind slow parties too. I always figure, like what you said, early bird gets the worm...I Have let one party past my partner and me up and climb through. But that was because the climber was Peter Croft himself on the Original Route on Rainbow wall in Red Rocks...No way I'd have that guy wait on me

Klimbien · · St.George Orem Denver Vegas · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 455

I think honesty is the best policy. Having said that I've been totally screwed just like the OP. I was with a slower partner on tunnel vision in red rocks, while at the huge ledge on top of pitch 3 a party had caught up to us pretty quick, and I thought there wouldn't be any issue....nope twiddle Dee and twiddle dumb thought, well this would be a great time for the guy who has NEVER lead trad, head on out for his first trad lead ever!!!! Seriously like 3 hours later we leave the belay. Got back to the car and had a $50.00 trespassing fine for being on the loop after hours.
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On the flip side, while climbing the regular route on half fair view dome in Toulomne, I was with my regular partner and we meet some very nice people who let us pass. Car to car in 3 hours, passed at least 5 or 6 parties who all let us climb through.
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First example, not honest, second example, honest.

Em Cos · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 5

Are you sure he lied? Maybe he's climbed it really slowly 6 times...

SRB25 · · Woodside, ca · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 5

Totally Em. There are some slow people who do laps on the same routes.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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