Info on climbing in Australia & New Zealand?

My wife and I will be headed out to Australia and New Zealand this winter to climb and relax on the beach. Looking for any info on must do climbs, places, best free camping, ect... Also wondering if we could get away with bringing just quick draws because of weight restrictions with airlines? Would we miss out on a lot, or is there enough great sport climbing to keep us busy ? Were looking to climb from 5.8 to 11+

Best

About two years ago i did some climbing in victoria and in tasmania. In these places it is over 90% trad, so i suggest at least bring a light rack, though i think that blue mountains near sydney has more sport climbing.

If Victoria i could recommend Arapiles (3h drive from Melbourne). More than 1000 routes to choose from within 30 minutes around the central camping place, but unless you climb 5.13 i think it has only trad routes. The other place in Victoria is to climb Grampians, though i don't have any personal experience there.

For Tasmania, there is tons of climbing out there. Again mostly trad and a great variety of climbing areas. From climbing directly at sea to adventure multi-climbing far away from any city.

The epicenter of Australian sport climbing is in the Blue Mountains, which are a 1.5 hr drive west of Sydney. There's a lifetime of routes at your desired grades. If you bring your trad rack (you should) then you will be able to climb at Arapiles, which is about 4 hours outside of Melbourne. Arapiles is one of the top 5 traditional crags in the world, in my humble opinion. Maybe top 3.

One word of caution. Australia is HOT in their summer. Expect days over 100F (38C), especially at Araps. The Bluies stay slightly cooler thanks to aspect and elevation. But still hot.

I never climbed in Tassie or NZ, so I can't offer any advice there.

chockstone.org for information about victoria

thesarvo.com for information about tasmania

PM me if you want to borrow a rack. I'm out for a while with a shoulder injury.

To follow up on others comments. First Australia is a very big place with not the greatest road system (except between the main east coast cities) so getting around takes a while. If you will be in Sydney there is climbing and bouldering right in town, most notably the notorious Sydney seacliffs--mostly trad but some sport--if you trust the bolts in the soft rock. The Blue Mountains is a very extensive area with many crags both sport and trad. The most accessible areas are a bit under 2 hours from downtown Sydney and many crags are accessible by train and a short walk.For easily accessible sport climbing with a very good spread of grades I recommend the Upper Shipley crag--great views as well. A bit further from Sydney (maybe 2 1/2 hours drive--sort of west) is the other major sport climbing area in New South Wales---Nowra--again several crags in the area. Many of the crags tend to have climbs in the upper grade range (hard 11 and up), but Thompson's Point across the river/estuary from the campground (they rent canoes) has a good spead of grades.Nearby is the spectacular sea cliff of Point Perpendicular---mostly (all?) trad but worth a visit---you could always rig a top-rope for a good number of the climbs. For Upper Shipley and Nowra 15 quick draws should be more than adequate.

Over in Victoria, as others have stated Arapiles is outstanding but not really worth a visit unless you are equipped for trad or can hook up with someone who is (the few sport climbs are all quite top-end in terms of difficulty). The Grampian Mountains are only a short drive away from Arapiles (under an hour depending on locale), very extensive, and at least equal in quality. Most of the climbing is trad and the bulk of the sport climbs seem to be in the upper end, but a few of the crags do feature some easier sport routes. Both areas also have extensive bouldering options. I don't have any personal experience of the rest of Australia or New Zealand, but from what I've read both have good opportunities for both sport and trad--though quite spread out. Have a great trip.

I spent 6 months in NZ in 2014 and flew down with shoes/ harness/ gri gri and a smile. I had the best time on the South Island at Payne's Ford climb.co.nz/places/nelsonwe…

The Wanaka area also has a good concentration of sport climbings and iconic mountain scenery. Paynes is more beach/ rainforest

On the North Island the top cragging is at Froggatt on awesome volcanic pockets: climb.co.nz/places/wharepap…

12 draws and a 50m rope would get you through everything.

Enjoy!

Jeez Alan, you beat me to it. Araps is really good and you don't need much of a rack ! 20 wires and few cams...it will be hot though.

The Blues are fun especially if you want some granite.

Of course Syndey sea cliffs are a must..like climbing in a salty junkyard..but the beaches make up for that

John, Your memory is going!!!!!---the Blues are sandstone through and through, not granite. I think there is a small granite atea beyond the mountains (You-yangs?) but not really part of the Blues. You surely do have a good memory of the Sydney sea cliffs--"a salty junkyard". You travelling back east any time soon? Alan

Sorry..I meant Mt Buffalo....gritty JT like rock

I have climbed all over New Zealand on several occasions, a long time ago. The most memorable to me was a trip with my daughter at Docs Point, not far from Dunedin. Will let you investigate it from there. Enjoy your trip.

South Island NZ recommendations:

-Long Beach (near Dunedin). Small area but cool.
-Paynes Ford (Golden Bay). Piles of limestone sport.
-Pohara (Golden Bay). Right on the beach in a cool little town.
-Mt. Cook Village. Limited climbs, but epic scenery, worth it.
-Mt. Somers. 3 hour approach, great alpine feel, hut to stay in. Bolted knobby pinnacles plus some huge basalt trad climbing.
-Castle Hill. Iconic bouldering and mountain scenery. Some bolted climbs too.

Wanaka looks cool but I never made it down there to climb, sadly.

Christchurch has a decent amount of sport and trad climbing in the port hills too. Nothing epic, but some good scenic climbing and generally decent weather, good base camp for a longer stay.

And don't forget the mountaineering, it's off the charts.