Great Falls, VA

So I couldn't find which region MP puts VA in, so guessing this would be a good spot to ask: Anyone familiar with the rock at Great Falls, VA? I've climbed right across the Potomac River there in Maryland at Carderock, and the hard, slick quartzite is not recommended for taking pro. I'm wondering if it's the same deal at Great Falls. I'll be in VA in a few weeks and wouldn't mind trying a few easy leads in addition to all the top roping that's there.

Thanks!

Thanks Jake!

The rock at Great Falls is the same mica schist as Carderock so be careful which climbs you lead. I recall leading 1 or 2 climbs (about 20 years ago) that took some good sized cams but they were easier climbs I was very comfortable leading, I wouldn't trust small pieces to hold in that rock.

Thanks Ralph, yeah the local consensus seems to be very careful at GF with gear so I'll not come close to pushing it. I'm still very early on in my trad development so I'm trying to stay on climbs well within my ability. I know that's not the best way to grow as a climber but I reserve pushing my technical limits (which aren't very high!) for top rope. My goal when setting out is basically to just not fall on a trad climb, but obviously I plan for it in how I configure the belay, place gear, maintain redundancy, watch my angles, Jesus nut off the belay etc.) At Great Falls I'm thinking of starting on an very easy 5.4 40 foot crack in the Sand Box and going from there. Who knows, maybe I'll end up chickening out and top roping - we'll see. Appreciate the post!

If you are willing to drive a little further (for better rock/pro),
Sugarloaf Mnt. in Maryland has some easy and well protected trad routes.

Thanks Marty - yeah I climbed there once this summer (no leads though.) Good suggestion - and no entry fee either! That's actually closer for me coming from Pittsburgh anyway, but I completely forgot it was in that area...

Matthew,

If you are driving from Pittsburg, a closer and better trad area for you
would be Pond Bank, PA - good rock, moderate routes.

It is also known as White Rocks - an hour closer to you than Sugarloaf

Thanks Marty, I'll check it out! Just gotta talk my partner into driving a bit further now :)

Matthew,
If you're in the area then I would say check out Great Falls. Otherwise in my opinion, it isn't worth the road trip from Pittsburgh when you have better options closer. The big one that I can think of is Seneca. It is likely an hour closer to you and has a lot more to offer. The routes are longer and you have climbing at all levels. Most of the easier trad protects very well with either active or passive pro.

Mark Thesing wrote:Matthew, If you're in the area then I would say check out Great Falls. Otherwise in my opinion, it isn't worth the road trip from Pittsburgh when you have better options closer. The big one that I can think of is Seneca. It is likely an hour closer to you and has a lot more to offer. The routes are longer and you have climbing at all levels. Most of the easier trad protects very well with either active or passive pro.

I appreciate it Mark - yeah haven't gotten to Seneca yet. I feel like I want to continue to improve in my efficiency on smaller crags before rubbing elbows with folks at Seneca. Also heard a lot about the sandbagged routes there so not 100% sure I want to lead a 5.6 only to find out I'm in over my head. I'll probably make my first trip to Seneca one where I've scratched together some coin and go up with one of Tom Cecil's guides. Thanks for the input!

Seneca is a fantastic place to climb, with extremely moderate routes that take good gear -- you have to choose your lines carefully, though. They have routes at every grade and every grade of severity. While the sandbagging there is notorious, it isn't any worse than the Gunks, the Valley, or other historic areas.

Tommy is a really awesome guy, and his guides are great as well. If you want to save money and you know how to set up toprope anchors, there are plenty of single pitch areas with top access. Spend a day climbing without fear of getting in over your head, or get on routes with grades that you are confident with -- there are many to choose from.

Hey Matthew. From what I can infer, you're from the Pittsburgh area but your partner is from the DC/VA area? I agree with the above posters that White Rocks/Pond Bank and Seneca would be far better choices to cut your trad teeth. I'm from (roughly) the Pittsburgh area and if you want to keep in touch I'm sure we could coordinate some trips next year, if that would suit you. Seneca is my favorite close crag, and I'm familiar with Pond Bank as well. I've never heard any positive comments regarding gear at Great Falls. I've been there once, but not to climb. Not worth the trouble, IMO. In fact, if you favor the south-east area I'd check out Harper's Ferry over Great Falls. Especially for cold weather. There's some moderate trad lines there.

Thanks Brian - I'm looking forward to exploring Seneca for sure!

Doug - might take you up on that for the Spring. You're right - I'm in the South Hills of Pittsburgh but grew up in DC, so the guy I usually climb with is down there. Let's keep in touch - I'd be happy second for you this Spring at Seneca or elsewhere.

Matt

do not recommend any leading at great falls for several reasons.First the local regular climbers there will have a cow and verbally let you know they disagree.The rock is the same as carderock and the falls are in park territory and technically they can site you for not using toprope only,not that ive ever seen it enforced.and most importantly there is nothing there quite frankly worth wasting good gear on just set up a top rope and get a workout.Entropy is a fun route there to try and aid box is fun area there if not crowded.They have been closing areas lately in the park temporarily so I would advise anyone to call the park before going to great falls

I am local and have climbed and lead in Great Falls for years. Your best leads on easy grades that take good gear is in the Dihedral area. Long slits and cracks that take passive and active gear alike.

Enjoy

t.cooper wrote:do not recommend any leading at great falls for several reasons.First the local regular climbers there will have a cow and verbally let you know they disagree.The rock is the same as carderock and the falls are in park territory and technically they can site you for not using toprope only,not that ive ever seen it enforced.and most importantly there is nothing there quite frankly worth wasting good gear on just set up a top rope and get a workout.Entropy is a fun route there to try and aid box is fun area there if not crowded.They have been closing areas lately in the park temporarily so I would advise anyone to call the park before going to great falls

The above post is wrong in so many ways that I don't know where to start. Closing areas? WTF? I go there 1-3 times a week. I've never seen a climbing closure except when they close the access trails because of river levels. That, too, is exceedingly rare.

The person I've quoted is either trolling to safeguard his favorite spots or has no damn idea what he's talking about. The incoherent writing style should be sufficient warning.