Northeastern Roof Cracks and Inverted Offwidths!

thebmags wrote:Haven't gotten on it yet but Thee Off-Width in North-Eastern Mass. mountainproject.com/v/thee-…

great looking line - thanks for sharing will definitely be checking it out

john strand wrote:Times change eh Ward ?! Raptor Roof at back Sundown is 11+ just a bit wider than fist..The companion to Roofer is I think gang bang similar grade and the nextcrack is 1 1/4 stacks, not free yet There are several cracks at Mineral sight that are still aid,,big roofs 20+ feet

Gangbang still hasn't seen a free ascent?

Ya, it's free, Gang bang is 11+ or so the next crack along..tough

There's another one at Popple Mtn that's supposed pretty hard as well

Eli Buzzell wrote:I heard about Red Tape in the Gunks, but don't know much about it. Lost city perhaps?

Red tape is close to Mohonk Lake. Probably on Mtn. House land and thus very off-limits.

Lost City has an outrageous roof crack boulder problem. 30+ feet of (mostly) fist-to-stacks crack, dead horizontal, 8 feet off the ground. It's in a cave just below the Texas Flake block.

In PA there is astroboy and

astroboy video- poor quality

and right around the corner:
spring chicken

Although, to be fair, there is absolutely no need to invert on spring chicken. I think a spring chicken wing will do.

Great story, Ward.

Tennessee excursion at Chapel Pond is great fun, as someone pointed out above. I think there are two distinct roof section, one right off the ground.

Eli Buzzell wrote: This is torture! I'll see myself out.

Lol nice one, took me a minute to get it.

There was a thread on this problem not too long ago (which is also where I got the picture). Using the info from that thread it's either of these two places. Either it's right before the pull off in front the lake (check streetview) right here or it's somewhere in the woods by the second drain on the highway north past the Boise Rock pull off, about here.
I think it's probably the first of those too.

Gunkiemike wrote: Lost City has an outrageous roof crack boulder problem. 30+ feet of (mostly) fist-to-stacks crack, dead horizontal, 8 feet off the ground. It's in a cave just below the Texas Flake block.

WHAT!? I must know more :P

Snake Skin Suit..RI Snake Den Mgmt unit

15+ feet....10+ (cough)

thebmags wrote:Haven't gotten on it yet but Thee Off-Width in North-Eastern Mass. mountainproject.com/v/thee-…

This area has some great Boulder problems, "dougs roof" another good invert is right near by. My hometown Gloucester.

Fisting Jon deserves another plug:

mountainproject.com/v/fisti…

Reviving this thread with a new route: The Next Wave, 5.11a, at Cloudspin Cliff in the ADKS. It's one of the largest horizontal roofs in the park, and I think the second largest that goes entirely on gear after The Fountainhead. I do not believe that it has seen a second ascent yet!

On the left side of the Upper Tier at Farley, there's a massive roof hand crack that's only 5.10, Umbrella Crack. Although, I'm not sure if it climbs like a roof crack, since the crack is at the corner of the roof and a vertical wall, so I think you can put your feet on the vertical wall. It looks super good, but I haven't seen it dry so I haven't climbed it.

While I'm on this topic. Also on the Upper Tier, a little to the right of Yosemite Crack, there's a cool looking finger crack that goes out a short roof. Near the top of the cliff above an easy corner. Anyone know anything about that crack? Looks pretty hard.

Alex Fischerwrote:

On the left side of the Upper Tier at Farley, there's a massive roof hand crack that's only 5.10, Umbrella Crack. Although, I'm not sure if it climbs like a roof crack, since the crack is at the corner of the roof and a vertical wall, so I think you can put your feet on the vertical wall. It looks super good, but I haven't seen it dry so I haven't climbed it.

While I'm on this topic. Also on the Upper Tier, a little to the right of Yosemite Crack, there's a cool looking finger crack that goes out a short roof. Near the top of the cliff above an easy corner. Anyone know anything about that crack? Looks pretty hard.

Might be J-Crack (12c)? 

Eli Bwrote:

Might be J-Crack (12c)? 

Not J crack, that's way to the left. This is between Yosemite Crack and Amphitheatre Crack.

Alex Fischerwrote:

On the left side of the Upper Tier at Farley, there's a massive roof hand crack that's only 5.10, Umbrella Crack. Although, I'm not sure if it climbs like a roof crack, since the crack is at the corner of the roof and a vertical wall, so I think you can put your feet on the vertical wall. It looks super good, but I haven't seen it dry so I haven't climbed it.

While I'm on this topic. Also on the Upper Tier, a little to the right of Yosemite Crack, there's a cool looking finger crack that goes out a short roof. Near the top of the cliff above an easy corner. Anyone know anything about that crack? Looks pretty hard.

Umbrella roof climbs like a roof traverse. Halfway decent feet, bomber jams. I suppose you could even lay it back if that's your thing.

Have you looked closely at that "finger crack"? I'm not sure it's big enough for fingers. More of a seam. If it is indeed possible, it'd be more of a short, hard to protect boulder problem 40 feet off the ground. Not sure you wouldn't hit the easy corner if you fell. I've heard no record of anyone trying that. It could be fun to rap in and try it, but I'm not sure it's worth killing the lichen. 

And if you like roof traverses, there are a couple more at Farley’s. Facing umbrella roof is Boys From Boston (11d). Short stout little bugger that protects well, but gear is strenuous to place. 

Under the Big Top (12b?) is a rarely dry link-up in the bat cave, fully bolted. Starts on blind as a bat, ends on oosic. It always looks dirty but at most a few feet need to be brushed off to make it go. If it's a dry summer, it's a fun thing to play on.

john strandwrote: Times change eh Ward ?! Raptor Roof at back Sundown is 11+ just a bit wider than fist..The companion to Roofer is I think gang bang similar grade and the nextcrack is 1 1/4 stacks, not free yet There are several cracks at Mineral sight that are still aid,,big roofs 20+ feet

Where is Mineral Sight?

This beautiful v5 roof crack at Hewes Hill. Have yet to go and try it on a dry day.

Dan Knisellwrote:

This beautiful v5 roof crack at Hewes Hill. Have yet to go and try it on a dry day.

I was going to say the same thing. This one looks soo dope! We gotta go back for it Dan!

Dan Knisellwrote:

This beautiful v5 roof crack at Hewes Hill. Have yet to go and try it on a dry day.

Wow I'd like to get on that.

Mineral Site is in the North Conway Guidebook.