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Lower Left Wall / Ventilator Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Age Before Beauty 
Bombardment 
Effects of Kind Bud on an Abnormal Brain, The 
Ego Trip 
Fisting Jon (AKA Leafspring) 
Fun House 
Fun House Left 
Happy Trails 
Once Upon A Climb 
One Hit To The Body 
Pleasant St. 
Pooh 
Son Of A Birch 
Starfire (Yo-Yo) 
Three Birches 
Ventilated Western Girl 
Ventilator 
Western Lady/ California Girls 
Unsorted Routes:

Fisting Jon (AKA Leafspring) 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: FRA Chris Magness & Jon Howard '11
Page Views: 1,523
Submitted By: nhclimber on Oct 13, 2009
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fj

Description 

If you like grainy 45 degree overhanging offwidth/squeeze chimney's, then this is your route. Chimney up left side in until you can turn and set yourself up to pull the lip. Once acomplished you get 60 feet of fun .3ish climbing up a nice if dirty handcrack.


Location 

There is a small cliff under bombardment, on the left side of this mini cliff is this painfully obvious route.


Protection 

wc 6, (2) bd 4, bd 3 and a few hand sized for the top. Tape is not aid here, bring some!



Photos of Fisting Jon (AKA Leafspring) Slideshow Add Photo
Jonathan Garlough getting after it
Jonathan Garlough getting after it
John Garlough committing to a great onsight effort.
John Garlough committing to a great onsight effort...
FJ.  The cams on my harness can help visualize the steepness of this line.
FJ. The cams on my harness can help visualize the...
fj
fj
The business section of Leafspring. No, Matt was not soloing it in approach shoes.
BETA PHOTO: The business section of Leafspring. No, Matt was n...
fj
fj
super steep fisting on Fisting Jon
super steep fisting on Fisting Jon
fj
fj
That's Dave Weston's foot in the upper right corner.  Thanks for the great photos Dave.
That's Dave Weston's foot in the upper right corne...
fj
fj
Jonathan Garlough
Jonathan Garlough
Comments on Fisting Jon (AKA Leafspring) Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 14, 2013
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Oct 13, 2009

For me this type of climbing is almost ungradable. It could be and .11 or it could be a .9++. All I know is that it was a ton of fun and cut me up good. Guess I have to work on my technique! I would love someone else to get on this and tell me what they think.

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Oct 13, 2009

Also, if anyone has any FA info that would be great! John???

By Chris Graham
From: Bartlett, NH
Nov 23, 2009

Jon...you are insane!!!! LOL
Did you finally send it?

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Nov 23, 2009

I was lame this weekend and went to the s. but and humphreys and climbed in the sun, the scabs on the backs of my hands had just healed (after a month)so I should have gotten on it. My last lead go I fell at the lip and was absolutly shattered and had a hard time on moderates the rest of the day. Hopefully before winter it'll go.

By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Dec 3, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

What!!!?!?! Sounds great...any pictures?

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 3, 2009

Dave when i originally saw this route posted I thought of you, i know you like these style of climbs

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Dec 3, 2009

Nope, no pics. My camera has been dead while we've worked this badboy. 4-5 of us have given several go's on lead with no success yet. The initial grade we gave it was .10d and as our attempts are thawrted we are bumping the grade up to were it is now. Please give it a go to help confirm the grade. I think i listed the pieces above, but if you have an old green bd 5 it doesn't set as well as the WC 6 does but it does fit. The bottom protects well with the 3 pieces. Right side in down low is not worth trying. Left side in is the way to go, and when you switch sides you have to cut your feet hanging off a rattley left hand jam and just hang there for a moment. It's a wild 16'!

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Dec 3, 2009

Isn't there a hard project somewhere on this wall? Not that the crack you're talking about isn't hard. I'm talking fun-hard, not heinous-hard.

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Dec 4, 2009

There are 2 'bolted' lines that look cool to the right of the ow. The bolts are suspect from the ground and they would need hangers. Like the rest of this short wall they are very overhanging. I may do some maintence on one of them and see if it'll get some traffic. There is also a kinda crappy/loose looking trad line up and obvious eroded dike.

By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Dec 15, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

Went to take a look at it...the bottom section looks plenty fun, but the upper crack looks horrendously dirty and mossy. Looked particularly unpleasant right after a rain. Surprisingly, the OW section was dry-ish. We didn't climb it, though, the top of the route turned us off.

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Dec 15, 2009

Awesome photo David! The top is cruiser fun even if mungey, It would be a 3 star .3 if it started on the ground and was clean and make for a great first lead. Right as you transition out of the wide you have to hit a flat block that is a little mossy, but at that point anything feels easier. Glad you went and looked.

By burlap submariner
Dec 29, 2009

got a clue why its called leafspring?

By john strand
From: southern colo
Mar 27, 2010

I'm gonna downgrade this to 9+ 'cause NO WAY Ozzie climbs hardwide !

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
May 4, 2010

pinkpoint 2 weekends ago, sunday I thought i had it even with the sopping rock and fell from the exit moves. So close... New grade .11b/c

By David Aguasca!
From: New York
May 12, 2010
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

Got so close to onsighting this yesterday that it hurts...I was too pumped to hang on to the leafy, dirty jug at the lip.

Setting up and turning around to pull the lip is some of the hardest climbing I have ever had to do.

I used a C4 6, 5, and 4.

I think the grade of .11+ is accurate, just for simplicity's sake. Jon, I agree that personally speaking, this kind of climbing is pretty much ungradable.

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
May 12, 2010

NICE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I had a funny episode the last time I was on it. I brought a buddy who is a fairly solid .13 climber who blew his onsight and luckly for me was too tired for a second go. Dave, did you get on it again. Still waiting for the FRA! Woo WHO!

By David Aguasca!
From: New York
May 12, 2010
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

No, I don't think I'll be able to get on it for another 2-3 days...partially because I can't make it to NC, but mostly because after the onsight attempt I feel like I ran into a brick wall. Repeatedly.

And I am definitely not a 5.13 climber...

By kemple sr.
Jun 8, 2011

Bill Lowther and Ozzie put this route up. There was a wedged car leafspring at the bottom, where someone had tried to quarry the flake. They bolted it,I believe using a car jack to hang on while drilling.
Billy invited Jr. and I to flail on it. With the bolts we got up it with some laybacking(not likely now, since a local removed the bolts!)I know I hung,but Jr. may have sent, too long ago to recall for sure.

By chris magness
Aug 28, 2011
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

I did this yesterday placing all gear from the ground, and believe this to be the first ground up gear ascent.

I didn't clean the upper slab as the dirty jug and munge are part of the character of the route. I left a piece of static line and a rap ring on the tree above the slab.

Chris

By chris magness
Oct 29, 2011
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

After much discussion and some confusion, it has been determined that the climb known as Leafspring is the detatched flake at the right side of this crag. The climb discussed here has no history. Its now called "Fisting Jon," for Jon Howard, of course.

By chinos
Aug 22, 2012

chris got me to try this climb a couple days ago, thanks chris! going back friday to send this pig. super fun .11 climbing. you will feel like you got hit by a mac truck when you get off this thing!

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Aug 24, 2012

nice job guys! Stick with it Jon, you'll kill it. Chris, happy now...

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Jan 3, 2013

great photos. did i hear that you flashed it, jason? great job.

By Jason Denver
Jan 4, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c

Yes, I'm proud to say that I got it first go. I had been wanting to try it for a while, so i was stoked to finally have my chance. Good, unique climb for the area. And yes it does challenge the body in a very physical manner!

By frank dahlmeyer
From: north conway nh
Aug 14, 2013

tried to onsite last week -started right side in as of to avoid having to turn at the top -beta here says left side in to start-maybe try that next attempt