Mosher cliff for sale

Awesome Mike. I'm all ears, especially if there ends up being xc-skiing and mountain biking permitted along with climbing.

Would the ultimate goal be to hand it off in some form to the State? Create a local climber's coalition to pay taxes, etc? Just curious about the long term plans.

There's property on Crane Mt for sale right now that allows much easier access (and not seasonally flooded road access) to the southern cliffs, where most of the highest quality climbing is. That's a $50k purchase. Because there's existing access though I doubted the AF would have been interested. Like you're thinking with this property, that could be subdivided and the section needed for access to the state boundary handed over to the State or AF for safe keeping.

trulia.com/property/3173759…

Kevin, for now there isn't a plan yet - I am just going to look at it and see what the possibilities are. If I do get the listing, we can go from there and start to formulate some ideas on what the best option would be. Like I said, I'm open to suggestions and really interested in hearing other local climbers' thoughts on it.

Mike Hazard wrote:Kevin, for now there isn't a plan yet - I am just going to look at it and see what the possibilities are. If I do get the listing, we can go from there and start to formulate some ideas on what the best option would be. Like I said, I'm open to suggestions and really interested in hearing other local climbers' thoughts on it.

It's a good location for many people I know. Having multi-sport, multi-season purposes definitely would add to the pool of prospective funders.

Kevin Heckeler wrote: It's a good location for many people I know. Having multi-sport, multi-season purposes definitely would add to the pool of prospective funders.

I agree Kevin, I'd like to see access restored and the land being put to good use. Climbing, mountain biking, XC skiing, why not? It could be a great resource in the Southern ADKs.

Historically the Nature Conservacy and many land advocacy groups haven't been too welcoming of climbing as a land use. If that has changed, perhaps they can be of help. Last year the Access Fund simply didn't have the funding for this, and the local climbing community didn't have a plan to raise the funds to repay the access fund.

If this is going to happen, it will need to be a multi-party coalition. I'm skeptical that crowdfunding will be able to raise this type of money. Climbers aren't known for deep pockets. However, I was thinking if there was a chance of making this happen that crowd funding was the way to do it. Afterall, people have paid a guy tens of thousands for potato salad and other nonsense things.

Good luck with this Mike!

Kevin Heckeler wrote: There's property on Crane Mt for sale right now that allows much easier access (and not seasonally flooded road access) to the southern cliffs, where most of the highest quality climbing is. That's a $50k purchase. Because there's existing access though I doubted the AF would have been interested. trulia.com/property/3173759…

Kevin, is this land still available? I heard it was sold. I know there was a plan to "crowd fund" this as well. I was interested and willing to contribute to it, but it never materialized. I know the owner is in no rush to sell and the asking price is well above the $38k market value.

J. Serpico wrote: Kevin, is this land still available? I heard it was sold. I know there was a plan to "crowd fund" this as well. I was interested and willing to contribute to it, but it never materialized. I know the owner is in no rush to sell and the asking price is well above the $38k market value.

I think Justin is right about this. When I tried to find it on the MLS I found a sold property with an address of 0 Ski Bowl Rd, while confusing it gave the following directions (go 1.2 mi south to R on Ski Hi Road, go 1 mi past grey house (see RE sign)) which would match up with the property you are referring to. Unfortunately, it just sold on 10/15/15 for $52,000.

Mike Hazard wrote: I think Justin is right about this. When I tried to find it on the MLS I found a sold property with an address of 0 Ski Bowl Rd, while confusing it gave the following directions (go 1.2 mi south to R on Ski Hi Road, go 1 mi past grey house (see RE sign)) which would match up with the property you are referring to. Unfortunately, it just sold on 10/15/15 for $52,000.

Duly noted, I haven't been up to Crane since the climbing fest last month.

Do you guys think that shortcut to Measles Wall will be closed now?

Bill Kirby wrote:Do you guys think that shortcut to Measles Wall will be closed now?

Sooner or later it probably will be. I looked at the tax maps for Ski High Road though and the 3rd lot after it is NYS land. It seems like there could be a place for another shortcut on that parcel if it isn't wetlands. Looks like the NYS land starts a few hundred feet before the marshy pond on the right farther up the road. At that point, I'm not sure how much of a shortcut it would be but it might be worth looking into at least.

This may be of interest: F Minunni chiming in to J Lawyer when they were talking
About the excellent climb House Of Cards a 5.13 that Frank Minunni also pioneered
I can't link it but as for sheer gold turned off topic a bit
The conversations can be found by clicking
On House Of Cards,

Sorry if this thread drift is upsetting I think it is important to secure climbing at the Mosher Road cliff.

From: Las Vegas, NV
May 18, 2013

Hey Jim, How are you? (Frank Minunni here)
In ref to the first trad 13 in the Daks. Primal Scream at Mosher Rd. is 13a, all trad. Was done around 95 I would say. Took a bunch of 40 footers onto a number 5 stopper before unlocking it. Predates HOC by at least 7 years. Not sure if Mosher is considered Daks but we figured anything north of Albany.

Edit: thanx Frank! You would be stoked to see the chalk on your lines!

Wow, multiple 40 footers onto a #5 stopper? Pretty wild. Anyone who has more information like this on Mosher please send it my way. I'd like to have an idea of what's there before I go on Saturday and so far I haven't found many details.

I can probably tell you all you need to know about Mosher.
Thanks Mike. It would be nice but I'd really like to see Loser Magnet done more. One of the best 12c G cracks you'll ever find.

I was going to send this to Mike but decided to post for public consumption.
Here are the routes at Mosher. There may be some minor mistakes but I think the info is pretty solid.

After descending the gully, the routes are, from left to right on the main face:
Note: The first two routes were unintentionally pilfered before the people who bolted them finished.

Cat Burglar 11b. Mixed. G
First line of bolts to the ledge and med nuts or small TCUs to finish

Petty Theft. 11b/c. G Mixed.
Takes bolts right of Cat Burglar finish past small roof with crack in it. Small to med nuts to finish out.

Fridgidare. 11c PG
Trad Sketchy gear to start. 10 feet left of the obvious overhanging crack. Start at a thin crack that leads to a hanging block that looks like a refrigerator. Straight up the crack and pass the block on the right to the top.

Loser Magnet. 5.12c trad G.
The obvious hand and finger crack. A perfect line! Gorgeous climbing. Jam/layback the crack and then up face when crack ends. Big thanks to Martin Bursins on this one! Great gear, great lead great climb.

Primal Scream. 5.13a Trad R (at least).
Start at the top of a block at the obvious crack. Critical #5 stopper placement before a big runout. If that stopper blows, it could get really ugly. If you lose your nerve, reach right and clip a bolt on the route to the right. No bolts were clipped on the FA.
Climb the crack until it peters out. Continue up face to a ledge. Step right and finish on the crack in the upper section (12a).

The Hobie Ladder. 5.13 c/d sport G. Just right of Primal Scream.
Follow the bolt ladder straight up.

The End. 5.10
on the arête/corner. To the right where the cliff basically I don’t remember if there are bolts or not but I don’t remember it as being particularly good or bold.

To the left of the access gully, there is an obvious overhang. Name unknown but goes at 5.10 trad PG. Climb up to and over the roof.

Further left and down is an outside corner. Name Unknown but goes at 5.9 or 5.10. trad G

Mike Hazard wrote: Sooner or later it probably will be. I looked at the tax maps for Ski High Road though and the 3rd lot after it is NYS land. It seems like there could be a place for another shortcut on that parcel if it isn't wetlands. Looks like the NYS land starts a few hundred feet before the marshy pond on the right farther up the road. At that point, I'm not sure how much of a shortcut it would be but it might be worth looking into at least.

It's not just a short cut to Measles, it's a short cut to everything on the south east side. It's not life and death, but a few minutes extra drive and then 20 minutes extra walk, it's definitely not ideal for many craggers.

The existing trail made Measles wall a 5 minute approach.

The parcel Mike mentioned might actually make sense in the spring and winter when the main trail head is closed. In winter you usually park at the end of ski high and walk the remainder of the road to the trail head.

In summer, not sure it cuts much off.

Michael Schneider wrote: In ref to the first trad 13 in the Daks. Primal Scream at Mosher Rd. is 13a, all trad. Was done around 95 I would say. Took a bunch of 40 footers onto a number 5 stopper before unlocking it. Predates HOC by at least 7 years. Not sure if Mosher is considered Daks but we figured anything north of Albany. Edit: thanx Frank! You would be stoked to see the chalk on your lines!

I once took 2 consecutive 6 foot whippers onto a red tricam on Katahdin...thought i was pretty bad ass. but a bunch of 40 footers onto a #5 stopper definitely puts things into perspective. That's like 257% more bad ass than I even thought I was, and about 1037% more bad ass than I actually was. Then again, #5s are pretty beefy. Nah, that's still pretty bad ass.

There are a few of us who thought it would be fun to go and check it out .
The drive from the Gunks was long - like 4+hrs ? And when we got there
we were blown away at the way the place was perfect for climbing. A light rain won't matter the place is stiff , steep and old school - not a sport climbing area by today's idea or what other places were in the '90s I remember stretches of friable rock in between the good stuff? And a few moderates if you took up residence .
The crack that sucks you in Loser Magnet ( did you name that after we went there?)is 12C it spanked us and felt very .13ish on a rack of nuts and small tri-cams.

You must have gotten lost somewhere. I could make that drive in about 2 1/2 hours but glad you got up there. I got on Loser Magnet the first time on TR, got 10 feet up and said, "Put me down. This is too good to toprope until I lead it."

You didn't by chance, try Primal Scream, did you? Maybe on TR? It was the first route I graded 13, so was a little apprehensive. But it's way harder than Loser Magnet, so I went with the grade. Only has a few TR ascents since and I think the grade is holding up.

We took the scenic route for sure , we got off in Clifton park told to do so by
someone who could not climb out of a paper bag, he was willing to drive
along. Was Stickman 'scaray Larry, and 'aid it' kieth, Slim (J Strickler ) not Dawes,Jimmy? Musta been there and Stan
You know the blind leading the blind
Edit yikes I have no cursor showing . . 4:43am
We were the crew that could not lead straight and when we were given no choice it was not a pretty thing.
The cracks there suck you in and I fixed a #2 wired hex at twenty feet of the easier one?
I was not aware that both of them were called loser . . . Something?
Even Losers Can Do It ?5.11d /12?or just .11 ~ yeah right!:\
Loser Magnet that rig goes(you say) at 12b/c
Any way not that I did not try but I think Slim, from Cornell, got on Primal Scream may have hung it
In a try or two? The Boss and flunky played on that 12 c lead but I'm sure I only Tried on Tr

I lol try
Can't edit typo like the lol I have to get off this shablet I'll try to get on the Pc...
later but this no cursor thing is a hint that failure is ... yikes
6:40am
Still no dice...

I can vouch for Frank's badassness.He enjoys running it out well above RPs.