New Sport routes on Duncan's Ridge ?

From the entire NCCC Board:

As climbing’s popularity continues to rise, NCCC, in partnership with Larimer County, are focused on protecting Duncan’s from climbers’ impacts. Resource protection and public safety are legal mandates that the County works with the NCCC to address.

The County and NCCC ultimately determined that using top anchors to reduce erosion and promote public safety was necessary to protect the resource and public access. Additionally, the County approved lead bolts and fully authorized their use at the discretion of NCCC. Ultimately, top anchors were placed to reduce erosion around the cliff tops and promote public safety. Lead bolts were also installed with the intention that the main user group were beginner rock climbers who wanted a beginner level lead climb.

NCCC failed to anticipate the anger that the lead bolts caused. Several local climbers expressed their outrage with the lead bolts and a heated discussion ensued. Despite ongoing dialogue, virtual threats became reality and the hangers on most of the lead bolts were stolen.

NCCC handed out a survey at the Duncan’s Ridge Trail Day asking a variety of questions but the main one being “Do you approve of the installed Lead Climbing Bolts at Duncan’s Ridge?”. A total of 28 people participated in the survey. 25 of those individuals approved of having the lead bolts, where as only 3 people were against.

While no individual has taken credit for the theft of the hangers, the same local climbers have made it clear that under any circumstances, if the lead bolts are replaced, they too will be “chopped.”

NCCC apologies for not proactively seeking specific community input prior to installing bolts at Duncan’s. NCCC refuses to turn Duncan’s Ridge into a new battleground for the archaic “bolt wars.” NCCC has removed the lead bolts and patched the holes appropriately. NCCC supports all climbers and will continue to work with the entire climbing community to protect and promote climbing in Northern Colorado. This was an eye-opening experience for the NCCC Board and it has learned a lot of valuable lessons. NCCC Board is working on being more transparent and hopefully that will be seen in our actions in the coming months ahead.

Ryan Nelson’s status as a Board member has been questioned by many people in the community. The Board took Ryan’s actions very seriously and came to the conclusion that we needed to have an internal vote about whether he stays on or not. The results of the vote were that Ryan will continue to sit on the Board of the NCCC. Ryan’s dedication to Northern Colorado Rock Climbing is unsurpassed and we all felt the community as a whole would benefit more from Ryan continuing to do work for the NCCC. People make mistakes, but what really counts is what you learn from them and how you move forward in the future.

Please send us an email if you have any further questions.

NCCC
nococlimbers@gmail.com

Anyone can back this response. Thanks for the NCCC for responding with such leadership.

Thanks NCCC and especially Ben for your response and leadership on this issue. This action will definitely help keep the community together.

Ken Duncan wrote:Thanks NCCC and especially Ben for your response and leadership on this issue. This action will definitely help keep the community together.

Well said Ken. Thanks for helping move big rocks last weekend.

Ben/Ryan, it takes a lot of strength to come on this site with a well written mea culpa and I applaud you for doing it. The NCCC will survive and will be stronger for it.

+1 !!

What a cluster. I havent climbed there but it sounds like a less fun crag than it was with the bolts. I did climb at the geezer wall here in bcc after the similar bolt war shitstorm died down and enjoyed a fun day of clipping the bolts and not having to deal with a rack of gear. It kind of sucks when a 5.12 climber climbs a classic 5.7 route without bolts and then it becomes forbidden from becoming a classic leadable route for people who want routes like that just because the fa didn't need them. Generally 5.7 climbers are not putting up routes for themselves.

Thank you NCCC, Ben and Ryan for working with local resource stake holders tirelessly. I am ever thankful you are there for us!

Thank you Ben, Ryan and NCCC

I agree more with bus driver, but I also applaud Ryan. If bolts are to be chopped, it is nice to see things turn "full circle" I guess...