Do you train heavy pull ups? Help w/ elbow pain.

J-
You mentioned a bad bouldering injury twice in your post, what was the nature of the injury?

Collagen supplementation hasn't been show to significantly aid in tendon healing.
If anyones interested here's a collection of research from someone's who's been interested in connective tissue research. It's a FB page for the general public, so you'll have to make the call on whether the research is worthwhile.

facebook.com/tendinosis.org…

Brent Apgar wrote:J- You mentioned a bad bouldering injury twice in your post, what was the nature of the injury? Collagen supplementation hasn't been show to significantly aid in tendon healing. If anyones interested here's a collection of research from someone's who's been interested in connective tissue research. It's a FB page for the general public, so you'll have to make the call on whether the research is worthwhile. facebook.com/tendinosis.org…

The last injury was just bouldering outdoors doing a somewhat intense lock off reach. Just had intense pain from bent arm climbing after that. 1-3 weeks off got rid of most pain. Either lateral epicondyle or brachoradialis I think. In the past it came from 2-3 days of intense climbing outdoors. Always seems to cause the same pain.

Still appreciate the responses, but I'm probably not going to attempt anything too unorthodox and I've never been big on supplements. I will try anything with evidence to back it up though. Also I'm also not planning on resting because it doesn't help. The pain terms to come back the day after I climb, even with weeks off and months easy. It's not hurting right now and I didn't take time off. If you think I need to take 12 months off I just don't believe our bodies are that slow at healing. But it sounds like most advice is antagonist of some kind of nerve gliding, trigger point, etc. Which I do plan to look into.

Thanks for all the suggestions. I probably won't post anymore but hopefully others can use this info as well if you have other ideas to add.

will ar wrote: What happens when your body digests collagen? It is broken down into the same amino acids as any other protein product you eat. Don't bother wasting your money on expensive supplements, just eat a well balanced diet.

+1. Essential amino acids don't just come in a jar.

Will S wrote:We always hear about how isometric doesn't translate to full range of motion, that strength gains are joint-angle specific with about 10degree carryover either side, etc.

Some studies have found that the carryover angle varies with the joint and the angle trained. Some have large carryover ranges, some have small. I have a feeling load could factor in as well.

I used to have bad elbows after climbing quite regularly until I found this product called frog finger. I use it to warm up before climbing and in case of any pain in the elbows. Your elbows might be a bit worse, but it worked wonders for me. frogfingers.weebly.com/ Basically it's just a rubber thingy that adds resistance to opening your hand.
Hope that helps

Have you Focused on your shoulders? Had some very deep elbow pain and i could not understand why.. Tried warming up longer, icing it, heat pad, ibuprofen, etc and it would not go away. I then ran into some information from Doctor Lisa Erikson from some CM post awhile back and with this video she was able to shed some light on the elbow, youtu.be/4E0iTuYtLd8 , which helped me relieve the pain after about 2 weeks of rest and daily shoulder stretches. Hopefully this helps and hope you get better soon