More ARCing or Projecting?

Thank you for even more suggestions.
I'll be sure to look into more of Steve Betchel's stuff as I get a little more expendable income (student loans and all that are due.)

Another source that I like a lot for videos on lead (and other climbing) techniques is this: climbinglife.com/rocks/inst…

Of course, a good book like the one mentioned above is definitely one if the best places to start, and it really helps to have a friend who has a lot of outdoor climbing experience that you can learn from as well.

Thank you again everyone. I have been reading, watching, learning and utilizing all of the information you've been giving to me.

I had a bit of a random question regarding climbing frequency though. Everyone seems to say that my frequency is too high, yet on a whim I looked up how often Adam Ondra Climbs. He goes for hours 7 days a week. I'm not trying to be condescending or posh (far from it, I am just genuinely curious) but what does he do that I, and a majority of climbers, do not in order to be able to do this, and why can't I?

Again, not trying to sound high-and-mighty, I am just downright curious as to what the thoughts are.

Gary.Taylor717 wrote:Thank you again everyone. I have been reading, watching, learning and utilizing all of the information you've been giving to me. I had a bit of a random question regarding climbing frequency though. Everyone seems to say that my frequency is too high, yet on a whim I looked up how often Adam Ondra Climbs. He goes for hours 7 days a week. I'm not trying to be condescending or posh (far from it, I am just genuinely curious) but what does he do that I, and a majority of climbers, do not in order to be able to do this, and why can't I? Again, not trying to sound high-and-mighty, I am just downright curious as to what the thoughts are.

climbing friend,

if you attempt to train like world class climber after only 7 month passing, your weak, puny, and undeveloped tendon will surely do the ripping into shreds. Climbing friend Ondra, he build up to this incredible volume over many years. With many years passing as a child he strengthens his tendons.

In conclusion, it takes many years passing to strengthen your tendons enough to take punish from this many hard training days. Many, many, years, climbing friend.

climbing friend,

also climbing friend ondra he has the building of a small dwarf or a horse-jockey, so perhaps he is not loading his tendons as much as a heavy man climber, and instead more like young deer lightly leaping over a fence.

A cautionary tale....
I was in the same boat around age 26. Climbed real hard with poor technique while relying on power for about 3 years then came down with bad elbow tendonitis/ finger arthritis. Took a year off and slowly got back into it. Now I don't put as much energy and focus more on footwork and technique. I climb harder stuff than I ever did when I was beating my elbows and finger joints up back then. YMMV

climbing friend,

If you very much like to get strong tendon, you would utilize your crushing grip of iron fist relentlessly on the climbing rocks boulders for many years, like angry wolf about to tear out some poor animal's throat.

This is probably rude, but I want to understand why do climbers think the average climber could even consider train like a world-class one?
Would the average biker/runner/swimmer think they could handle the volume and workouts of an Olympian or world-class athlete in their respective sport?

I am always surprised when I see a 5.10 climber thinking they need to train like a 5.15 climber.

SMR wrote:This is probably rude, but I want to understand why do climbers think the average climber could even consider train like a world-class one? Would the average biker/runner/swimmer think they could handle the volume and workouts of an Olympian or world-class athlete in their respective sport? I am always surprised when I see a 5.10 climber thinking they need to train like a 5.15 climber.

Not rude at all, but I was trying to imply as well that I WASN'T trying to compare myself to Ondra or anyone at elite level. I was simple curious what the differences were and why. I know there are a lot of differences. I was just curious as to what they were.

Gary.Taylor717 wrote: Not rude at all, but I was trying to imply as well that I WASN'T trying to compare myself to Ondra or anyone at elite level. I was simple curious what the differences were and why. I know there are a lot of differences. I was just curious as to what they were.

Do you really think there is an answer to that question? Sometimes I swim laps. Can you explain to me what Michael phelps has that I don't that lets him eat 12,000 calpories a day and swim 50 miles a week in addition to significant cross training? muscleprodigy.com/michael-p… The difference between me and Michael is in literally EVERY single thing that could relate to our ability to swim.

Nathanael wrote: Do you really think there is an answer to that question? Sometimes I swim laps. Can you explain to me what Michael phelps has that I don't that lets him eat 12,000 calpories a day and swim 50 miles a week in addition to significant cross training? muscleprodigy.com/michael-p… The difference between me and Michael is in literally EVERY single thing that could relate to our ability to swim.

I must say, that was an enjoyable reqd. Yes, I heard the multitude of reasons why Phelps is as good as he is. I've also looked into just elite athletes in general and how they can manage their training and levels of skill. It comes down to three components apparently: time (they've done their sports since forever and put extreme dedication into it), genetics (because that's a huge factor truthfully) and enough support and outside help to train, coach and essentially run their lives for them. They don't have to think, they are told what to do and just do it. And are genetically gifted....with no other stresses in life...and lots of extra time haha.

But I digress. I actually have taken everything everyone has said on here to heart. And yesterday I onsighted 2 5.11s. And it was done because I have focused more on technique, built power endurance and just studied other climbers.
Thank you all again.

Don't know if it helps with climbing though...</quote
I hear it improves your dead point ability by making everything feel alright.