Infinite Bliss anyone?

Anyone want to hop on Infinite Bliss sometime this month? It looks like quite the adventure. Down to give it a serious go; the hardest pitches are within my leading ability but I'm happy (read: prefer) to swap leads and simulclimb the easy stuff. I've a rope and 12 or so draws to contribute gear-wise.

Let me know if you'd like to give it a shot and when you're able to. My schedule is pretty flexible so most weekdays are good but I need to plan far enough in advance regardless.

This route is a fun adventure but ....... When my wife and I did it 4 years ago we noticed that the bolts are not stainless steel. In an alpine environment I don't think the hard wear will be safe for 2 many years... So just because it is a clip up check what your clipping!!!

Thanks for the info! I'll keep my eyes peeled when I get up there.

Go check cascadeclimbers.com
If I recall correctly most of the bolts on infinite bliss have been replaced in the last year or two.

I'm definitely interested in climbing it at one point. I'm comfortable leading 5.10c, but I've never simulclimbed, and have little multipitch experience. Have a 60m rope and 18~ draws.

The crux of that route is finding the right trail on the approach and carrying enough water.

I did it on a 90 degree day - we ran dry on the 13th pitch. The whole route is like a solar oven and collects the sunlight. It gets HOT.

The rappels take forever. Tossing double ropes on a slab is an exercise in frustration. Fastest way to do it is to lower someone off each anchor on a super-munter. That way you don't have to toss the ropes.

Good luck!

Thanks for all the advice! Yeah, I figured I'd go check out the approach before I give it a go. Getting lost in the pre-dawn darkness looking for the climb doesn't sound like much fun.

Still looking for a partner...

I've done the raps in sub 3 hours (not simul rapping). The bottom 6 pitches are fast as you can toss the ropes no problem on über smooth rock. Some pitches are also straightforward (crux 10c, lower 10). The loose slab pitches and a few tricky pitches up top require that the first down rap with the ropes coiled or stuffed in a sack. It keeps tangles down and, arguably more important, keeps the amount of loose crap you send down the chute to a minimum. Tossing the ropes on those bolt-less upper 5.0 pitches will send tons of crap down on anyone below which is hazardous.

Bring a metric ton of draws (I had 32) to simul link the entire lower slab in one LONG pitch. That saves a TON of time. There are certain other sections you can link as well. Doing that will get you up and down comfortably.

No longer in WA or I'd do it again. A good adventure. Watch yourself on the traverse pitches in the middle. They cake going up but hairy going down as you have to 4th class it. I used bushes as "pro"