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Squeezing the lemmon II - anchors??

Original Post
Ohrockclimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 0

I bought Squeezing the Lemmon II since it was the most recommended climbing guide for this area. But here is my question, we are sport climbers and do not climb mixed, many of the climbs in the book are marked bolted but are missing the "C" marking in the book indicating there is an anchor of sorts.
Can someone help me out here? Are there fixed anchors on all of the sport climbs marked as such on Mtn project? (not sure if I should trust the book as it is quite a few years old. Or perhaps I am reading this book incorrectly?
Please let me know if you have any info for me, we have never climbed in AZ and are headed there in a week for a 2 week trip.
Additionally, best places to camp would be nice info to have also!!

Thanks in advance

BRZ · · Arizona, Tucson · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 105

I have found that a mix of that book and using mountain project are sometimes the best. The book has been In print for a while so it is not totally accurate. There are chain anchors/ mussy hooks on most of the sport climbs on the mountain. Also for a good chunk of the climbs you can see what your dealing with before you leave the ground.

Scott M. McNamara · · Presidio San Augustine Del… · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 55

Perhaps you might e-mail "1Eric Rhicard" and ask your question?

Ask him what he recommends, too.

I am sure he would be happy to bend your ear.

Best Wishes,

Scott Mc

Robbie Mackley · · Tucson, AZ · Joined May 2010 · Points: 85

Good answers about anchors above.
I would add that, IME, if the write up doesn't include gear and/or anchor options the route may share an anchor with another route.
From what I know EFR is a great dude and I doubt he would send anyone up a line that requires a gear anchor without telling them.
If you have your skill set in check, this shouldn't be a problem.
That said, if you're only used to 2 bolt/2 draw anchors SoAZ probably isn't the best place to learn more (without a guide).
If you're apprehensive (?) ditch SQ2 and just climb the sport areas listed on mp.com.
As far as camping goes, it's all relative to where you want to climb and what ($) you want to spend.
Pm me and I can help you work any of this out.
Have fun and enjoy climbing in AZ!
-Mackley

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Arizona & New Mexico
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