Free standing or leaning crack machine: anyone built one?

I want to build a crack machine for outdoor use as I don't have room in my house. anyone ever built a free standing crack machine, or one you lean against a house or tree?

ideally, the angle would be adjustable, but if its fixed id be shooting for around 50-60 degrees. I want to have fixed crack width, with three different sections at 3 different widths (basically 4 2x10's running parallel).

I'm basically wondering what could be done to stabilize the high end. leaning against a house or tree would mean adjustable angle, but also falls into the tree/house and wasted room up top (unless you want to do some chimney-ing). freestanding seems to mean fixed angle and a lot more wood(unless yall have some ideas) but also room to fall.

so, any input?

I've tried google obviously. almost all of those supertopo posts are about vertical OW cracks, which is not what im trying to build. the problem is not finding crack machine designs, there are hundreds. its finding a FREE STANDING or LEANING AGAINST A STRUCTURE crack. basically, something I can build without fastening it to a support.

Two 2X12s threaded rods and bolts. Stand it up and lean or otherwise fasten the top to a structure.

Lean it away from the building and guy it to the ground.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1197468&msg=2444899#msg2444899

BOW BEFORE MY MIGHT AND AWESOMENESS!11!!11!!!!

thanks adam. you are the man

JD Borgeson wrote:thanks adam. you are the man

You have no idea.

Seriously, though - this thread also has some discussion on construction/texture/etc supertopo.com/climbing/thre…;tn=0&mr=0

If you can tolerate the low testosterone, you can probably get some beta on building a decent setup from a couple/three people there.

It is adjustable with all thread, but because of the varying thickness of the cultured stone, it ranges from thin hands to wide hands as it is. It is secured with rope around the tree. I used a galvanized pipe through the top to leverage the stabilization of the rope around the tree. There is angle iron fastened to the outside to reinforce it. Aside from being narrow, it also works for face/edge climbing training. It leans, which makes it harder.

kevin: could you explain this a little further?

" It is secured with rope around the tree. I used galvanized pipe through the top to fasten the rope to."

was the rope fastened to the top of the crack and looped around the tree and fastened in the same place. or do you mean you put galvanized pipe in the tree somehow? or did you attach the galvanized pipe to the crack and run the rope through it and join the rope to itself to make a loop?

I drilled through the very top of the crack and used a pipe about 3' long with elbows on the end so the rope wouldn't slip off. The rope is wrapped around the tree. The pipe leverages the stabilization of the rope. I did add eyebolts halfway up and wrapped another rope around the tree. I didn't drill into the tree. I intend to straighten the crack since leaning destabilizes it a little. I also intend to add cable in addition to the rope in case a squirrel chews on the rope.

Hey Adam, That is awesome! What dimension are the yellow boards, they look like 4X4's from the side. In which case wouldn't your hand jam go right thru the crack ha. A friend and I are attempting to come up with plans for a cheap crack machine.

Also what size cracks are people making. finger? thin hands? off hands? fist?? various off widths?

That's not my rig...to help train to send that Rig. Looks nice, though

Other questions, from those with experience. Are 2X8's wide enough so your hand doesn't go thru the crack? or are 2X10's a must?

Also what angle (beside roof) have people been using? we were thinking 60 to 65 degrees from the ground.

small hands-2x8 long hands-2x10

Just to follow up on this, we finished the machine and here it is. we decided to add the extra support to the bottom, which really made it functional. something I didn't consider was how HEAVY this thing would be, but all in all, its pretty damn good.

how did you keep your boards from flexing? we don't really wanna use metal bolts and nuts (or make it adjustable) but we definitely don't wanna have to shorten moves due to wooden blocks in the from tot the crack.

We used wooden seperater blocks. They are only a couple inches every two or so feet so I haven't noticed them too much. Actually helped some less proficient crack climbers get established haha

When I made mine I got the idea from a mountain project post. It was free standing base. And I suspended the top part from the roof section of my climbing wall or the rafter of the garage. To keep the boards spaced I used 1/4 PVC pipe cut them to sizes from 3/4 inch to 2 1/2 inch. Eight of each. Then I just slid them over the bolts/threaded rod then tighten them up. Worked well form me.