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Suggestions on where to climb Southern Utah for a new climber

Original Post
r3lamar Ellsworth · · Holladay · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 0

Friend and I are heading to St. George/Zion's to climb and hike for 5 days. We are semi new to the fun. We are hitting up Sand Dunes on Island in the Sky and Black wall/rock(?). Nothing more than a 5.10 or so at this point. Is there anywhere else we should go? Thanks in advanced.

zoso · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 798

Dogwood.

Garret Nuzzo Jones · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 1,436

I would say Island in the Sky is gonna feel a little stiff compared to other St. George areas. Black Rock is great for getting a lot of different climbs in. On the other hand the routes are all short and fairly polished from lots of love.

I highly suggest you check out the Prophecy Wall (prophesy on MP). Lots of multipitch varnished sandstone routes. Pretty much all sport climbing there with nice bolted belays. The grades feel a little soft there so don't be too afraid to try something challenging. Gets afternoon sun.

ClimbingUte · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0

Just go climb and stop asking questions... Just kidding, I was the friend that joined r3lamar down there this last weekend and it was awesome! Thanks for all the advice guys.

Mark Paulson · · Raleigh, NC · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 141

Second on Prophesy (sic). Great easy-moderate single and multipitch sport. Plus, it's BLM land so you can just camp at the base by the pipeline. If you're feeling good, don't miss Harbingers (11b, but more like 10c/d). Great exposure.

ClimbingUte · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 0

We didn't make it out to prophesy this last time. We opted to hit blackrocks since we had been there already and had 4 other new guys with us. I keep getting feedback that prophesy is a great place to go. Definitely will make that the top priority for the next visit. Thanks for the info on the BLM land bit.

John Cameron · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 285

Kellys wall, black n tan and sunrise(?) all at the woodbury road crags.
Good variety, well bolted and even some top roping.

Trevor · · La Grande, OR · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 830

If you wind up going to Island in the Sky at Snow Canyon, do Pigmy Alien, that wa one of the best 5.7s(more like 5.8) I've ever done

ddriver · · SLC · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 2,175
last weekend and it was awesome

dogwood

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern Utah & Idaho
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