new Rock & Ice (*Jake Jones*)

Hey Jake Jones,

Saw your published comment in the new Rock & Ice. Good work! You definitely set the record straight.

Shout out for multimedia bad-ass-ness!

post it up!

The Phoenix wrote:post it up!

what he said

Awesome letter Jake!

Jake Jones wrote:I just wanted a free rope bag.

I hope it was a nice one.

"I don't subscribe to Rock and Ice to have a very good writer and climber tell me the pitfalls of Internet forums."

Curious to know the back story. The reason you wrote in. Feel like posting that link for lazy-me?

Nice job, Jake! This has been one of my major complaints about print media - they are all lazy. There is no value added information in that piece except for the author's tongue in cheek POV. Everyone could be a pundit, there are no reporters and journalists any more. The very least he could've done is go climb the route, if could not interview CW or TB personally.

Looking forward to seeing this thread summarized in next month's issue

Interesting. Quite a controversy.

I like how the author of the R&I article calls internet-posting about FA ethics "a complete waste of time". Maybe so, but it gave him something to write about for his magazine!! Also the forums are a great way for the community to work out its problems. I thought it was interesting how many people chimed in on the original Archangel thread. I mean, even John Long was getting toasted.

In his explanation of the Bachar Yerian, Bisharat says the route is "just less than vertical" making it sound like a steep slab route. The headwall on the first pitch is dead nuts vert and the brain scrambler second pitch is a degree or two past vertical. The angle eases on the last few pitches.