How to break into the 4th season

Dear ice kings and queens,

After two years of telling myself that I would not let myself get into ice climbing I have become absolutely fascinated by the sport. I am a budding trad leader that would like to break into the 4th season of climbing, have some adventure, and likely scare myself in the process.

Anyone have any recommendations on how to cost effectively break into the sport? I have a friend who can spot me crampons, and ice tools, but the biggest thing would be a pair of boots.

I have a full trad rack already, what else would I need to get into the cold?

I tend to have poor circulation in my hands/feet, so I feel a good pair of gloves will be vital. Any specific clothing I should look into? Reading FOTH over again, but it's no substitute for a mentor!

Edit: Currently live in Binghamton, but I call the Gunks my home and I live there for several months of the year.

Don't buy one pair of nice gloves

Get many pairs of cheap ish gloves

You don't list where you live in your profile, but on your tick list are a lot of Gunks routes. So, if you come through New Paltz much, you should definitely check out Rock and Snow's used gear exchange. They have a ton of used double boots for sale in there, and probably other winter gear also.

For gloves I like the two pair method. One thinner, more dextrous pair for climbing/leading in and another pair of fat, well insulated gloves for belaying in. Whatever pair you're not wearing at the time goes in your jacket pockets to stay warm.

Garret Nuzzo-Jones wrote:For gloves I like the two pair method. One thinner, more dextrous pair for climbing/leading in and another pair of fat, well insulated gloves for belaying in. Whatever pair you're not wearing at the time goes in your jacket pockets to stay warm.

Since you live the NE, amend this to be the four pair method. I usually take 3 pair of insulated thin leather gloves (covered in SnoSeal, of course) and one pair of shoveling-your-driveway-in-subzero-temps mittens. You WILL soak through a few pairs of the leathers in a given day, that's why you have extras in your pack.

If you have poor circulation, don't go cheap on boots. Get something warm that fits well. You don't want your heel to lift up or your forefoot to swim around, but don't downsize so that your toes touch the front of the boot when you kick your crampons in. Rock and Snow rents boots, and I think The Mountaineer in Keene (Dacks) does, too. Go to one or more of the ice festivals in the Northeast in Jan-Feb. They'll have the manufacturers there to let you demo some of the latest products - a great way to try before you buy. Check out NEice.com - they usually have a calendar of the events.

Have fun!

unlike gloves, just buy one pair of nice tools.

Don't buy an expensive softshell, but rather invest in a hardshell. It's always soaking wet in the NE. You can climb in a cheaper rain jacket if you have to like Marmot Precip (just wear layers underneath). Make sure the hood of the jacket is helmet compatible - you will be climbing in the showers sometimes. You can find cheap mid-layers in thrift shops (just check labels for wool/cashmere/merino content). For gloves, check out OR Extraverts - you can sometimes find them on a closeout really cheap. Just buy a couple - they're not waterproof, but are very warm and dextere, plus have leather palms. Guides in the NE love them.

I disagree with the idea that you don't need a nice pair of gloves. I would say to invest in a good pair of gloves for climbing (either BD Punishers or OR Alpine Alibis) so you have good warmth and dexterity while your on the rope. Hen have multiple pairs of cheapies to use for belaying. Always stick the gloves you're not using in between layers to keep them warm. (Though, if you're using down mittens with leather palms for belaying, you can clip those to your harness because they're so well insulated as is).

Another good purchase is a solid, vacuum-sealed thermos. I load mine up with 3 parts coffee, one part bourbon and that keeps me nice and warm in my belly.

Be sure to have an expert fit you for your first pair of boots. Rock and Ice or the Mountaineer have employees who are climbers. These guys will know what you need.

Get a warm belay jacket. This may make the diference between you enjoying yourself or freezing your ass off and saying F it this sucks! Buy this used and save some coin.

OR Alibi gloves and BD Punishers make a good glove choices. One pair for warmer days and one for colder days. Get a pair of cheap gloves for a spare pair. Be sure to pack mitts and a Balcava if the temps are really cold out. Again these will make or break a day out when its below 0F. Gloves can be purchased used from here or NEice.com.

When you have the money get some softshell pants. These will be warm and breathe. I personally stay away from anything hardshell while out climbing. Goretex is like wearing a trash bag.

The Blueprint Part Dank wrote: Another good purchase is a solid, vacuum-sealed thermos. I load mine up with 3 parts coffee, one part bourbon and that keeps me nice and warm in my belly.

+1 on the Thermos. I go with just coffee though. I save the booze for tailgating at the end of the day!

Something warm to drink can be priceless some days.

Thanks for all the help all!

Anyone have a recommendation for these "cheap gloves" for climbing?

I'll probably just use my snowboard gloves for belaying and such.

I will sometimes have 4 pairs of gloves with me ice climbing. It's not necessary, but it's a luxury. It really blows when your gloves freeze and your hands won't warm up.

Fleece gloves for the approach, BD punishers for climbing, I have a pair of neoprene type gloves that I'll sometimes wear to lead, and big fat belay mittens. When I'm not climbing, I tuck the punishers in my jacket under my arm pits to keep them warm.

Also, I got a insulated Nalgene holder. I got tired of my water freezing all the time. You'll also want a down jacket for belays, preferably with a hood. I also always use ski poles for the approach, when you're carrying this much shit and wallowing through waste deep snow, it helps to have some poles.

The trad rack won't help you much for ice, you'll want to buy some screws. I'd say a rack of 7 or so screws should get you up most pitches. They need to be sharp or you'll pump out trying to place them. I rack one stubby (10cm) a few 13cm and 16 cm screws and one 22cm screw to make V-threads.

As mentioned already, the two glove method is a wonderful thing. OR Alibis are great gloves for the actual climbing time, and then I've typically used my 1980's, neon print, snowmobile gloves (not recommended) for every other activity before and after the actual climb.

You'll be cold basically no matter what you do, but you'll love the 4th season.