Rumney ratings compared to the ADK?

Hey all, I just had a question that I couldn't find the answer to online so I figured I'd ask it here. I'm a climber in the Adirondacks that spends most of his weekends out at the local crags (Beer Walls, Creature Wall, Sunshine City). We mostly top-roped in past years but have been leading sport at Sunshine City and began leading trad a few weeks ago. We have sport lead comfortably up to 5.9- here and was wondering how Rumney NH is in comparison (grade wise). The reason I ask is my friend and I are planning on heading out this weekend and climbing at Rumney for the first time. We are trying to prepare a pre-trip ticklist of sorts and wanted to know what routes are in reach. I know Dack ratings can be pretty stout, but we feel our max grade to sport lead here in the ADK (assuming routes were bolted) would be around 5.10b/c. What would that compare to in NH? And would any Rumney vets have any tips for new climbers to that destination? Thanks in advance! Any response is appreciated.

I'd say up to easier 5.10 shouldn't be a problem. The wall with Junco on it has a sweet 5.10a that's balancy/not pumpy on the right end (something "Dove" I think), and a couple other climbs nearby. You have to get up there early to get your pick of climbs, otherwise expect it to be mobbed by 10AM. In general the bolting is done well, hard moves are protected and easier stretches allowed a little distance between gear. Don't bother seeking out trad, 95% of the quality climbs are sport. Trad might buy you an extra climb or two when it's peak busy though. Don't turn your nose up at easier stuff, Clip-O-De-Do-Dah 5.3 is a lot of fun.

Last time I went I was leading 5.8s there with no issue despite it being very early season (March) and not being solid in my head at the time. Check out the 5.8 wall for some fun moderate leads.

To answer your original question - the ADK ratings are everywhere. Rumney is no different. It really seems to depend more on when the FA was done then on the area. Early FAs from the 60s, 70s and 80s tend to be more stout and sandbagged as a rule. Once 5.10 was broken the climbing grades everywhere took on a mind of their own. I've seen featherbagged and sandbagged routes at the same wall. Different time and developers = inconsistency. From the few people I know who climb hard, they say Rumney is slightly feather bagged. Ymmv

Many say the grades are slightly softer here. Your mileage may vary. It depends on the climb, the wall, and what the guidebook author was able to build for consensus.

Most of the walls here that have 5.9-5.11 on them will also have lots of other grades close by. Head up to the Main Cliff, pick a couple moderates to get the feel for things, and then adjust accordingly. It's a very low investment to switch to an easier wall, or head over to a harder wall.

At the 5.9 - 5.10 grade, I'd say don't miss these routes:

Underdog (5.10a), Bolt and Run (5.9), Smokestack (5.9), Lonesome Dove (5.10a), Armed and Dangerous, Junco (5.8+ but highly worth the walk uphill). Couch Potato (5.9) at New Wave is also a nice intro to the overhanging pumpy style of Rumney. If you like it, try Yoda and Obi-Won-Ryobi at Lower Darth Vader.

I second the routes Peter listed. I'd also add my favorite moderates:
War and Piece (9+) and Masterpiece (10a) at Bonsai
Curly for President (9) at the Parking Lot Wall
Lies and Propaganda (9) and Hippos on Parade (9) at the Meadows
Metamorphosis (8+), although expect to wait in line (along with armed and dangerous)
Sweet Poly Purebred (10c) at Iron Man Wall

If you're feeling a little stronger I'd HIGHLY recommend:
Waimea (10d)
Know Ethics (11a) - Iron Man wall
Fucking the Dog (11a) - Kennel wall

Local beta: the parking lot wall, meadows and main cliff will all be packed. I'm sure bonsai will be packed as well, but sometimes you don't get the huge groups camped out on one route.

Have fun!

Sport climbs with a "traddie" feel to them -
P2 of Rock du Jour Direct, Stairway to Heaven, Millenium Falcon, Black Dog Crack, Smokestack (.9++).
I enjoyed all of them greatly.

For steep .10d, do not pass up Centerpiece, Peer Pressure, and Idiot's Deluxe.
For exposure, P2 of Tropicana (about .10d) is hard to beat. You can skip P1, if too difficult, by climbing Orange Crush to the ledge instead.

Thanks a ton for the quick replies/route suggestions! Makes it a lot easier to set a wish list. Another question though, is it worth picking up a guidebook or is the Rumney section of mountain project detailed enough? I was questioning if it was worth spending $30 for 2-3 days of climbing...

If you are only going to Rumney on the weekends then don't buy the book. There will be a million people everywhere and there are signs on the trails.

I find Rumney ratings are right on for onsight attempts -- the schist often has convoluted beta. If you see someone do a route or get beta on it, it may feel easier than what you are used to at that grade.

Also the copious amounts of chalk and tick marks on all the holds at many walls mean that true onsight climbing isn't even possible on routes that don't get rained on regularly (although you can't always trust the chalk). Not complaining, I love climbing at Rumney, but this is the nature of the beast.

Dylan Randall wrote:is it worth picking up a guidebook or is the Rumney section of mountain project detailed enough? I was questioning if it was worth spending $30 for 2-3 days of climbing...

You may have trouble finding a guidebook. They're sold out most places. If you find one, you may want to grab it just because you may not get another chance for awhile.

The Mountain Project guide is good enough for routes and route descriptions, but you'll want to find yourself an up-to-date trail map. The one posted at the kiosk is not up-to-date.

Lee Hansche's map is excellent, but also about a year out of date. Print it and take it with you, because its still pretty close to perfect. Updated Trail Map

The vast majority of climbers you meet at Rumney are going to be helpful and nice but do not be surprised if not all the local, regular town folks are equally welcoming. We bring pollution and congestion to the little corner of their world.
PLEASE take the parking restrictions/instructions SERIOUSLY, walk single-file, off the road, against traffic. And try not to add to the noise pollution and occasional thrash you see.
On the flip side remember to HAVE FUN.

One last question... Do all the walls here end up crowded by the afternoon? After browsing mp I realized Rumney has quite a few smaller less developed crags among the main classic walls. Should we expect crowds just about everywhere or just concentrated around the classics? The reason I ask is because my climbing partner and I have no problem climbing the lesser 2 or 1 star climbs when everything else is busy.

Dylan Randall wrote:Should we expect crowds just about everywhere or just concentrated around the classics?

Contrary to what many say, the crowds are not everywhere. Also, they're not always where you'd expect. If you're willing to walk and explore, you'll be able to find a spot that isn't crowded.

I've walked down the mountain from up high on a Saturday and found the parking lot wall empty at 1PM. People tend to move around a lot, so sometimes you hit the jackpot. Be willing to check back after people have moved on from their warm-up spot.

That said, the classics are usually busy.

Good luck!

Here's the last map dated 2013 I found online sometime early this year (forget where I found it):

Lee's map

I've found the best time to hit the classics is around/after 4pm. Most people are burnt out and/or looking for dinner by then. The late mornings tend to be busiest, but like Peter said, people tend to move around a lot, so you may get lucky.

As far as the farther crags go, yes, you'll find some climbing that's not crowded. You will find some decent routes, but nothing that I would drive all the way to rumney to seek out. The classics have spectacular movement on excellent rock quality. If you only have a couple days, it really is worth waiting 20 min to hop on the best that Rumney has to offer. Just my 2 cents.

I have found that I can lead at least a full number grade (sometimes 2 full) at Rumney as oppossed to the Adks. YMMV. Also If you start early down low and move up as the crowds assemble then work your way back down later in the day you can avoid the crowds. Pace yourself. Don't get your heart set on any single route and you should be fine. If you take a stick clip, you can "climb" anything. Have fun! You may want to check out Shelving rock near LG or shanty cliff if you want to stay closer to home. cheers to a fellow Smitty!

Yellow Knife and Prudential have some stellar routes. Long ones too!
Figure 30 minute hike from the Main Parking Lot if you do not get lost.

Hinterlands have many moderate, not very steep, climbs and is worth the hike too, maybe. Do not linger too long around the base of Jolt and Dolt tho. More rockfall is possible.

Don't know anything about sport rateings in NY but if you can lead 8+ at the gunks and 5.9 in the daks you are good to about 10b@ Rumny. If you can lead 9+ Great Dihedral Poko, real P1 of Overture etc in the Daks you should be good for 11a/b @ Rumny;)

S. Neoh wrote:Yellow Knife and Prudential have some stellar routes. Long ones too!

Drat. Now the secret it out. :)