Extending a top rope anchor?
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How would i set up a top rope anchor if the trees/boulders are far away from the edge? |
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Static rope (can be bought by the foot at climbing stores) is probably the most popular way. Be careful to pad any edges that the rope runs over to avoid abrasion; th |
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so create a master point and use a static rope to extend it beyond the edge? |
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No. Use the static rope to create the anchor. Tie the masterpoint in the line itself. This is only one example of such a situation: books.google.com/books?id=I… |
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perfect. thanks. yeah my friend has that book i think. i'll take a look. |
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The link you posted said they were using 10 mil. Dynamic rope. Is there any real benefit/detraction to using dynamic over static or vice versa?? I have always figured having as many dynamic pieces in your anchor was best. I have usually chosen to use nylon over dyneema for this reason but a few of my friends definitely use static rope for this set up. |
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chefMatt wrote:The link you posted said they were using 10 mil. Dynamic rope. Is there any real benefit/detraction to using dynamic over static or vice versa??Re-read the caption. It says 10 millimeter-diameter static rope. There are some threads on here regarding static vs. dynamic cord for anchors...but in a case such as this, a static cord is going to abrade less (theoretically). |
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Static rope is a little more resistant to abrasion and is tougher in general. I use static for rigging highlines and topropes because it lasts longer than dynamic would. When a dynamic rope slides over an edge (which it will every time a climber takes or falls) it can beat up on the cord and cause it to wear in that spot. Pad your edges that the anchor rope runs over well with backpacks or if the climb is close to the car use the floor mats from your car. |
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Ooooohhhh OK. Makes sense now. Appreciate the explanation |
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Another good alternative for extending anchors is to use basic webbing. Its cheap, light, packs well, and you can easily link multiple stands together with simple water knots. Im pretty sure you can find it by the foot as well. I used webbing today to set up anchors about 25 feet from the ledge with no problem at all. |
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Thom S. wrote:Another good alternative for extending anchors is to use basic webbing. Its cheap, light, packs well, and you can easily link multiple stands together with simple water knots. Im pretty sure you can find it by the foot as well. I used webbing today to set up anchors about 25 feet from the ledge with no problem at all.I second this suggestion to use 1" tubular webbing. It is more utilitarian than static cord. Getting the correct length is easy via a water knot. |
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ARowland wrote:Static rope (can be bought by the foot at climbing stores) is probably the most popular way. Be careful to pad any edges that the rope runs over to avoid abrasion; th+1 to that for sure man Static is the way to go. I recently took an AMGA SPI assessment and static rope is pretty much all we used to set up TR. My anchors usually consisted of a tree and maybe a couple gear placements in a crack with the master hanging over the edge. Or two trees work just as good, when you have a 30m static you can pretty much do whatever. Be weary of boulders though. |
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A key point to emphasize for people new to set-ups/rigging is that top rope set-ups (especially long anchor lengths) need to be STATIC because of the sawing motion over the edge due to any dynamics in the system --as someone said, webbing is better than line for this. Unless you have rollers over the edge, using a climbing rope for top-rope anchors is not recommended. Regardless, frequently check the status of your anchor to ensure that the settling, equalization, and wear is proper and how you expected it to be |
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Mark Pilate wrote:...webbing is better than line for this. Unless you have rollers over the edge, using a climbing rope for top-rope anchors is not recommended.This is the first time I've ever heard of this being "not recommended." Has testing been done to prove this, or is it just a personal opinion? When I think about testing abrasion resistance of tubular webbing vs static rope (for example, by repeatedly loading and unloading it over a sharp edge), it doesn't make sense that a flat, thin piece of webbing would hold up any better than a 10mm static line. I could be wrong. I'd love to see the test results. |
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I always use 1 inch webbing..Double runners. Same length, but 2 identical runners from whatever anchor I have, no matter how far back it is. Runners over the edge instead of any static line for me...because it seems to be foolproof and doubled up security. Of course, double 'biners too, one of them is a locker for sure, on all runner connections and for the climbing rope once over the edge. Been using this for over 35 years for top ropes at DL. |
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in general thicker static ropes are more abrasion "resistant" than webbing ... see the link someone posted above |
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Thanks for the link, olddog. Here's a snippet from the paper: |
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Ryan - Just to clarify what I said is "not recommended" - using climbing ropes (dynamic) for a long top-rope anchor. |
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Thanks, Mark. I thought you were referring to static ropes. Either way, wasn't trying to start a pissing contest. Thanks for chiming in! |
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I usually have a few different 20-25 sections of various mm cordellette. For a TR like this I use both 8mm and 10mm cord. |