fixed ropes in NC for projecting routes

what is the general attitude toward fixing ropes on hard sport or trad lines around NC. Is it looked down on or is it something that is a-OK at crags. Sometimes I think I'd rather not punish my partners belaying me (read holding me while I "catch my breath") on some hard sport climb around the area and rather just TR solo it while I'm working it getting ready for the redpoint (after having given up going for the groundup onsight attempt and thoroughly entrenched in projecting mode). For the sake of the discussion lets assume we're talking about a route very much out of the mainstream paths (at small lesser known crags).

Also for the sake of discussion lets say the rope would be up for 5-7 days (enough time to span enough sessions with rest that one could actually make substantial progress on their project).

Is this a despicable practice? Is somebody gonna throw my rope down in the mud? :D

Just curious,
samadhi

Depends what level you are climbing at, but I'd say most would call it booty.

Tyler Tylerson wrote:Depends what level you are climbing at, but I'd say most would call it booty.

Yeah, there might be a few remote areas where a rope would stay in place for a few days but I wouldn't count on it at most crags.

I don't think I've ever seen a fixed rope on any climb in NC in the past 15 years. Even leaving draws hanging on projects is generally frowned upon. Can't imagine a rope would be left up.

wow so you think other climbers would steal my rope? Seriously!? That thought didn't even enter my mind. Haha.

Edward Medina wrote:I don't think I've ever seen a fixed rope on any climb in NC in the past 15 years. Even leaving draws hanging on projects is generally frowned upon. Can't imagine a rope would be left up.

Thanks for the thoughts. I have climbed about as long as 15 year and I have actually seen quite a few fixed lines though only ever for cleaning new routes, and for aid routes in mid process...just not sport routes.

Would it matter if the routes were originally bolted top down and not ground up?

Thanks for the thoughts everybody, keep them coming if you have a perspective...I honestly never heard the idea discussed (maybe cuz its a stupid idea?).

I've taken down fixed ropes in Alabama, on hard sport, that were left in a pristine area with limited access...a lesser crag. I would do the same if I came upon a fixed line anywhere I frequent in NC. No doubt you are climbing hard, but still.....don't be that guy. I TR solo a lot...typically I find an appropriate route. 'Appropriate' means one you can clean.

^yeah I agree with your mentality.

Thankfully one of the routes can be accessed by reaching over the edge and clipping/unclipping the anchors...the really hard one I want to practice at least...that would require going up behind the cliff before and after but then I wouldnt be "that guy" :D

That leaves the other route I would like to practice on...but maybe I'll just wait til next year and I can just lead it (or never haha).

5.samadhi wrote:^yeah I agree with your mentality. Thankfully one of the routes can be accessed by reaching over the edge and clipping/unclipping the anchors...the really hard one I want to practice at least...that would require going up behind the cliff before and after but then I wouldnt be "that guy" :D That leaves the other route I would like to practice on...but maybe I'll just wait til next year and I can just lead it (or never haha).

If it's that easy, why even ask the question...? Spurt climbers that lazy these days?

Patience is a virtue.

please dont leave fixed ropes in NC...generally ruins the "natural feel"

I was out in yosemite last month and frankly was appalled at the number of fixed ropes i saw in tuolumne. It's not your rock so practice LNT's. Its really not that hard to put up a line especially working something ground up on bolts

oh and obviously dont leave fixed ropes in state parks...land managers hate that
my 2 cents.
happy climbing

Br'er Rabbit wrote: If it's that easy, why even ask the question...? Spurt climbers that lazy these days? Patience is a virtue.

ha troll :P but yeah I clip more cams than bolts fwiw (probably why I suck so much at sport routes).

5.samadhi wrote: ha troll :P

Touche.

I guess no one remembers the years of fixed ropes on "Rubber Ducky" on the North Face of Looking Glass! Oh, never heard of that climb. it is now called "Glass Menagerie". I must be the only lifer on this site, but it sure is fun!

Or most of us have left the 20th century and moved on

Now, now T.
If we compiled everything Shannon has divulged over the years around the campfire, there would exist an expansive and detailed tome on climbing in NC, Tn, Al, Ga, etc. beyond the scope of anything yet put together....heavy on the traditional styles.
It's good that there's representation from those that were there to see it.

shannon stegg wrote:I guess no one remembers the years of fixed ropes on "Rubber Ducky" on the North Face of Looking Glass! Oh, never heard of that climb. it is now called "Glass Menagerie". I must be the only lifer on this site, but it sure is fun!

Dammit! Now I'm going to have this stuck in my head all day...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mh85R-S-dh8

Br'er Rabbit wrote:Now, now T. If we compiled everything Shannon has divulged over the years around the campfire, there would exist an expansive and detailed tome on climbing in NC, Tn, Al, Ga, etc. beyond the scope of anything yet put together....heavy on the traditional styles. It's good that there's representation from those that were there to see it.

Ben,

you know i'm just flaming the fire for amusement purposes mostly...i'd like to see all of this history put down on paper and published.

T

Hey T, I thought you were backing Mr. Shull for that job! Just have not seen him much latley around!

shannon stegg wrote:Hey T, I thought you were backing Mr. Shull for that job! Just have not seen him much latley around!

I just want more information out there and less bickering amongst the various personalities that have helped establish climbing historically and today. Is that too much to ask really? I think constructive conversations are great and historical debate is great fodder for a guidebook intro to an area. I think NC needs a good comprehensive guide book especially with all the newer development and old forgotten routes.

So many people have said they are working on various guides. I'd like to see someone follow through on that.

Edit: Frankly the only person that has truly impressed me with his documentation is Andrew and i appreciate the topo's he's funneled to me over the few years i've known him, even if i cant climb most of the routes.

Hey Shannon,

was the whole climb called rubber ducky or just the first pitch? I heard the pitch1 was rubber ducky but maybe I was misreading the historical bit when I read that.

Your clarification is needed! thank you!

I second that I'd like to read more historical pieces on our beloved north side climbs (and other areas I'm just partial to n side since i live 15 minutes away and thats the only climbing other than the Red I like to do).

Come on Shannon!!!