Waddington or Bugaboos??

Want to do something big during the short Canadian alpine window. Waddington (1st choice) or Bugaboos highest on the list for now. I could be available by ~ August 1. Seattle-North Cascades-ish until then. About me- I've got a ride, a rack, & a rope. Good safety record, bad humor. Lead 5.10ish, WI4, C2, etc. etc. on a good day. Climbs I've done include all of the CO & CA 14ers, Pothole Dome, 56/58 of the CA county highpoints, Half Dome, Nose & Salathe routes, ... Easy to get along with. Totally down to do some cragging before committing to these big objectives. Anyway, if either of these objectives sound as incredible to you as they do to me & you're up for an awesome adventure, THE TIME IS NOW- carpe diem!!! Let me know!

Hi there,
I just posted about the Bugaboos, then saw your post. I'm looking for a partner August 1st to 5th or so. I'd be happy to go cragging, perhaps in Canmore the couple of days before that. I'm hiking around Jasper and Banff until then, headed to Squamish after the Bugs. I have led 5.9 trad, feel solid on 5.8 always, but might want to step it down in the back country a bit. I have a rack and double ropes. Let me know if you'd want to talk at all! I should have cell coverage tonight and tomorrow, then am hoping my phone will still work in Canada.
202-355-3148, kmanagan@hotmail.com
-Katrina

Hi diggler,

I'm also looking to get to the Bugs from August 5th - 11th. I can climb 5.10 gear. I'm located in Seattle area, have car and can drive. I have a good background of alpine climbing and glacier travel NF Shuksan, CNR Stuart, Baker, South Face of Prusik... hit me up if interested. I'd like to climb some classics.

Dave

bugs are a lot cheaper than waddington. if you go in there make sure you get to the base of the summit pyramid really early (reeeaaaallllyyyy early). As soon as the sun hits the route is extremely exposed to falling ice and rock, like it was getting swept every 5 or so minutes when I was below it. the views from the base are excellent though and that area is incredible.

Thanks for the hits & the beta. As things stand right now, I'm climbing with a friend until the 12th WA/Canada-ish, then free until the 19th (Bugaboo plans starting then).

Anybody free from the 12th - 19th? Squamish? Bugaboos or stuff around Banff/Canmore??

Is it too late in the season? I haven't climbed in Canada, but I'd be interested in doing mountainproject.com/v/west-…, if I could find a partner. I'm in Montana right now, will be around for a couple of days if anyone is interested.

Steve