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Help ID route at Broughton Bluff

Original Post
J Walker · · Bakersfield, CA · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 0

I was at Broughton Bluff a couple weeks ago with some friends. It was our first time there and I was wondering about a route we did. It was at Hanging Gardens Left and was to the right of Edges and Ledges by maybe 20-30 feet. I don't have a guide and have been going off of what is available on MP. We set up a top rope on the anchors/bolts directly beneath a big root.

PDub-Trad Forschizzle · · Corvallis, Oregon · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 246

If it was directly right of Edges and Ledges it was probably the Sickle & The Hammer. The two lines actually have a few different ways of going about them, because its not one defined crack, but the Sickle is a fairly obvious arching crack opposite E & L, while the Hammer is a set of cracks to the Sickles right hand side. The Sickle's crux is more obvious and visible from the base. The Hammer's crux hides the climber from the belay, but its actually just a simple stem problem that feels airy and a bit spooky till you hit placement and jam. If you've travelled too far to the right of E & L you'll hit Chockstone Chimney which looks just like it sounds. That would straying to far climbers right of E & L and I doubt you got as far as CC. Hope that helps, my best guess is Sickle & Hammer

Benjamin Chapman · · Small Town, USA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 19,754

Help wanted to locate a lost Nikon Coolpix camera in black leather case inside a black Lowe Pro zippered case. Last seen near restroom and water spigget in Lewis and Clark State Park. Last photo is of the poison oak sign near the stairs. REWARD! !

jeb013 · · Portland · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 10

If the anchor you set the top rope on is the one on the little slab where the 2 bolts are about 3 feet apart. To the best of my knowledge it is an unnamed route that the guide says is 5.7. I have climbed it quite a few times and would argue that the move coming out and over the little bulge 2/3 up is harder than 5.7, but maybe I am just doing it wrong.

Jeb

J Walker · · Bakersfield, CA · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 0

Thanks Jeb.

I was able to borrow a guidebook and thought it was the unnamed 5.7 but didn't agree with the rating at all so I assumed I was reading the guide incorrectly. I agree with you, there is no way that is a 5.7 unless I was missing something very obvious.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
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