1 arm belay

I used a Mammut Smartbelay this weekend, and I was specifically thinking about this post!
A Mammut Smart has assisted lock when someone falls, and no need to use a second hand to unlock to feed rope. Just push it up on the thumb catch, which is what you do to feed rope on lead. I think this could be it.

Momoface's ice ax arm is pretty cool! But I don't know if TimmyMo can use it because of no mobility on his shoulder.

So I've got an appointment with the neurosurgeon on Aug 6 so I'm going to ask him when he thinks it'll be safe for me to start climbing and running again again. I cant imagine climbing inside will be too much risk as long as someone keeps the rope tight. tho I will be essentially Dynoing everything so I might have to wait till fall to start climbing again. Its the sudden jolt when the rope catches or me catching myself when I grab on that is going to irritate the hell out of my nerves. But the pain is getting better everyday and I get to start cutting back on my painkillers this month :D
I also need to get my harness back from a buddy of mine so I can start trying some of these belaying techniques. I think I might try the Mammut Smart first cause they sell it at MEC, our main mountaineering shop in Canada. I could probably try one out at the store too. Tho I may order one of those Hewbolts. that looks great, needs to be a bit brighter of an orange colour tho. lol

I threw up some more pics under Beginning Climbers too or just check out my profile. :)

CJC wrote: Hope no one reading this gets the idea that this is in any way acceptable. OP, best of luck seems like you got a lot of good resources here.

I mean, it's not the worst. I think it depends on if by 'jumping' the hand is leaving the brake line, but when I have a fast climber I'll certainly use my whole body to bring in slack. Hand stays on the brake the whole time (obviously).

We had an adaptive climbing clinic tonight in Boulder, where we taught another one-handed gimp to belay.

WATCH OUT, WE'RE EVERYWHERE!

TimmyMo wrote: hahaha that's hilarious. definitely let me know when your coming up to Calgary and we can meet up and you can show me a thing or two. :D I love that Pic with your axe. that thing is killer. you should bring it with you if you come up this way.

Will do, it's always super fun to bring on a plane :)

Momoface wrote: WATCH OUT, WE'RE EVERYWHERE!

Good thing, too! You're totally the keystone to my Zombie Survival Squad... :)

CJC, you cut out the quote to make it look really bad as if I was endorsing this! (the quick jumping of the hand up the rope to take i slack). Like video edits to take something out of context.

I've actually been telling him to not do this, so I will show him what you wrote. he's a guy (and bc we are comfortable w/ each other) he won't listen to me. He tells me he has fast reflexes but I don't want to rely on anyone's "fast" reflexes, otherwise I'd let some ppl do it this way but not the "slow" ones? No one thinks they are slow. Plus he may have an "off" day. I prefer if there was friction on the rope at all time. If I am falling and rope is running a rope burn could happen and he could drop me.

I agree w you and have discussed w him about this, but please don't quote me out of context.