Edelrid Mega Jul

Jake - did you alert Edelrid? I'm sure they would want to get your broken one back in their hands to analyze it and correct the problem. They had to expect that kind of failure mode for this device, so i assume something went wrong in their process controls.

I'd expect they'll send you a free replacement too.

Edit:

Contact form for Edelrid
edelrid.de/en/contact/

Not sure if this has already been covered in this thread but I couldn't read all of the responses...

On long rappels the device might not fully autolock once you get towards the end of the rope. I was lucky enough to get to test out the micro jul on 6.9mm twins and past halfway, it started feeding through like a normal ATC would on rappel so keep your hand on the brake!

Overall a great belay device though. I will get one for sure.

Cheers

@Jake Robert mashburn
Please check your PM box. I sent you a message regarding a replacement. My apologies for this incidence. It shouldn´t have happened. It is also important to note that the safety of the device was not compromised in this incident. Again, my apologies and please contact me. All the best!

Apparently not an isolated incident:
geoquest-verlag.de/?q=node/455 (German)

I own a MegaJul and am extremely happy with it. My favourite belay device. As noted above, the safety is not compromised at all, and I'd say even most of the functionality remains intact. The potential hassle of having to exchange it might be a consideration for some people though.

can you feed out slack with the wire out like that ...

id hate to be belaying a climber on a sketchy run out climb and not be able to feed out slack mid move ...

bearbreeder wrote:can you feed out slack with the wire out like that ... id hate to be belaying a climber on a sketchy run out climb and not be able to feed out slack mid move ...

_For me_ the MegaJul almost never locks up unintentionally, I can use it like a regular tube style device when feeding slack. The few times it does, you could unlock it by tilting the device, even without the wire. I don't need the wire for lead belaying. _For me_ the Mammut Smart locks up unintentionally a lot more.

That said, you can flip it around and use it like a regular tube if the wire breaks mid-multi-pitch and you're worried about engaging the autoblock unintentionally and not being as quick to unlock the device as you would be with the wire.

markus-bw wrote: _For me_ the MegaJul almost never locks up unintentionally, I can use it like a regular tube style device when feeding slack...

This certainly coincides with the experiences reported here, ie the device will not lock certain ropes without holding down the brake. On the other hand, it can easily lock other ropes unassisted.

markus-bw wrote: ... That said, you can flip it around and use it like a regular tube if the wire breaks mid-multi-pitch and you're worried about engaging the autoblock unintentionally and not being as quick to unlock the device as you would be with the wire.

If you happen to be belaying a leader on the kind of supple rope(s) that can lock up unassisted on this device, you will need to pull on the cable every time you feed slack, which means that if the cable is going to break, it is most likely to lock up in mid-move for the leader. A royal PITA in the best case scenario and potentially deadly in a sketchy runout section, as Bearbreeder pointed out.

Even without these potentially dire consequences, resuming belaying the leader after a cable break is also likely to be quite tricky. Keeping the device unlocked by tilting it by hand or with a biner in lever mode may be fine for lowering or rappelling but to keep feeding slack to the leader, you’ll need to figure out a way to loosen the device with the brake hand without letting go of the rope(s). Sure, once the leader can get off-belay, you can switch the device around to use like a regular tube but that’s too little too late, as far as I’m concerned.

jktinst wrote: ... If you happen to be belaying a leader on the kind of supple rope(s) that can lock up unassisted on this device, you will need to pull on the cable every time you feed slack,

Not my experience. With various ~10mm ropes from new to ancient.

jktinst wrote: which means that if the cable is going to break, it is most likely to lock up in mid-move for the leader. A royal PITA in the best case scenario and potentially deadly in a sketchy runout section, as Bearbreeder pointed out.

"Potentially deadly"??? Seriously, get a grip, that kind of hyperbole is unnecessary.
Plus, the most likely time for the cable break is during those _rare_ times, when you pull it continously. I only do that during lowering, some people might do it rappeling. (Not recommended by Edelrid AFAIK and potentially the cause of failure in the German case.)

Besides, all autoblock devices carry some risk of unintentionally engaging said autoblock and either require some fumbling when that happens or partially disabling the autoblock during feeding. So if it's a hyper-crucial matter of life or death whether you can feed smoothly ... just the tube please.

jktinst wrote: Even without these potentially dire consequences, resuming belaying the leader after a cable break is also likely to be quite tricky. Keeping the device unlocked by tilting it by hand or with a biner in lever mode may be fine for lowering or rappelling but to keep feeding slack to the leader, you’ll need to figure out a way to loosen the device with the brake hand without letting go of the rope(s).

Not sure what you're responding to here, it certainly isn't the point where I said that I only rarely need to loosen the device. With the leading hand if the cable wasn't there.

jktinst wrote:Sure, once the leader can get off-belay, you can switch the device around to use like a regular tube but that’s too little too late, as far as I’m concerned.

"Dude, my belay device just broke a wire. Grab something, place something that holds bodyweight whatever, while I tie off the rope, flip the device and then we're good to go on. Or keep going, but anticipate that I might take a little longer when feeding slack. (You know, like on those days when I haven't had enough sleep or too much beer the night before or am watching the girl climbing over there.)"
I don't see a problem, just a hassle. Maybe I don't climb hard enough.

markus-bw wrote: ... "Dude, my belay device just broke a wire. Grab something, place something that holds bodyweight whatever, while I tie off the rope, flip the device and then we're good to go on. Or keep going, but anticipate that I might take a little longer when feeding slack. (You know, like on those days when I haven't had enough sleep or too much beer the night before or am watching the girl climbing over there.)" I don't see a problem, just a hassle. Maybe I don't climb hard enough.

Maybe you're just not too clear about what it means for both the leader and the belayer when they are in a sketchy trad runout situation

Ray Pinpillage wrote: Rapelling in auto-block mode took a little getting used to. Still easier than a Alpine Smart but quirky none the less.

Ray, what rope diameter and biner were you using on rap ? I assume you were on 2 ropes ?
I've had terrible problems with the mega jul locking up and not releasing. Details here:
rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/fo…;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;forum_view=forum_view_collapsed;page=unread#unread

I've rap'd on a bunch of ropes with it but that comment was on a rocklight and element locker.

Ray Pinpillage wrote:I've rap'd on a bunch of ropes with it but that comment was on a rocklight and element locker.

Do you mean one of these ?
metoliusclimbing.com/elemen…

Nice rounded cross sction, like the only biner I found to be successful.

Yeah.

By the way, I want to see the cable pull tested. The thumb loop is an integral part of the functionality of the device. Even though there isn't a safety risk if the cable pulls out it sure is a pain in the ass. As far as I'm concerned the device is off my alpine list until until I see something substantial from Edelrid.

well put it this way ... if yr using a device for trad multi or alpine we all know that means scrumming, some chimneys, offwidth, etc ... not to mention all the branches and cracks for it to bash against and get caught on up here in squamish

any belay device needs to be able to handle this ...

bearbreeder wrote:well put it this way ... if yr using a device for trad multi or alpine we all know that means scrumming, some chimneys, offwidth, etc ... not to mention all the branches and cracks for it to bash against and get caught on up here in squamish any belay device needs to be able to handle this ...

The cable on the Mega Jul is more integral to to its function than an ATC.

Ray Pinpillage wrote: The cable on the Mega Jul is more integral to to its function than an ATC.

also .. while the cable on the ATCs/guides/reversos has pulled before, its pretty rare considering how many they sell and how many years theyve been around... here we have TWO juls cable pulling within the first few months of being on the market ... that weve heard of anyways

After first seeing this new device I was kinda intrigued, but holy hell... 'integral' or not to the operation, I don't want sh!t that is gonna fall apart. Reality is that Edelrid cuts corners with their products - hell, I had a gear loop break on a six month old harness of theirs on me under a light bit of wiggling in a chimney that sent my approach shoes on a long ride. Definitely will be avoiding their products...sketchy!!!!

Weston L wrote:After first seeing this new device I was kinda intrigued, but holy hell... 'integral' or not to the operation, I don't want sh!t that is gonna fall apart. Reality is that Edelrid cuts corners with their products - hell, I had a gear loop break on a six month old harness of theirs on me under a light bit of wiggling in a chimney that sent my approach shoes on a long ride. Definitely will be avoiding their products...sketchy!!!!

I think that is unfair and a misrepresentation of what is happening. I need more information why the cable is coming loose and what it is rated for. I think the cable is pulling out because it wasn't designed as the only means of releasing the device. Unfortunately end users don't want to mess with caribiners and are probably pulling super hard on the cable. That's why I want to see pull testing, are the failures isolated or are they indicative of a design or implementation limitation?

The design has a lot of merrit and I would like to hear from Edelrid what exactly is going on.

Ray Pinpillage wrote: ... I would like to hear from Edelrid what exactly is going on.

So would I. I've written to them, but no reply.

Any updates on the Mega Jul? I stupidly dropped/lost my Alpine Vader on rap the other day and would definitely consider one of these as a replacement if they've addressed the issue. Has anyone heard of other gear mfrs coming out with similar designs?