Turning bolted lines into trad lines, who does that?

Caroline Ciavaldini, that's who.

cruxcrush.com/2013/04/23/ca…

I have, on a couple of my own early efforts.

Maybe the translation is poor, but is working a project on bolts and getting it dialed and then sending it on gear really trad?

When you're high above your own pro it is.

Ah yes. The "Green" point.

kevin deweese wrote:When you're high above your own pro it is.

Hahaha should we really start another what is really trad discussion?

redlude97 wrote:Maybe the translation is poor, but is working a project on bolts and getting it dialed and then sending it on gear really trad?

Of course it's trad, it's just not as impressive as if she'd grabbed the rack from the start.

Ian Stewart wrote: Of course it's trad, it's just not as impressive as if she'd grabbed the rack from the start.

I'm sure she lowered to the ground and pulled the rope after every fall on her project.

Ken Nichols

CJC wrote: The French, that's who.

How the tables have turned. They used to turn trad routes into bolted routes.

Can you say "retro"

BITD when one freed an aid line one would often rename it, ala Astroman. So if one does a bolted line sans bolts do they get to rename it?

FWIW I have probably done a dozen routes sans bolts while placing trad gear.

Monty wrote:Ah yes. The "Green" point.

I always thought that was a silly and misused term. In modern culture the word "green" is used to describe an object or practice that is economically friendly and aims to minimize adverse impact on the ecosystem. Climbing a sport route on gear, by no stretch of the imagination, accomplishes a reduced impact on the environment. I suspect the term was incorrectly coined by climbing magazine editors in an effort to generate increased discussion.

20 kN wrote: I always thought that was a silly and misused term. In modern culture the word "green" is used to describe an object or practice that is economically friendly and aims to minimize adverse impact on the ecosystem. Climbing a sport route on gear, by no stretch of the imagination, accomplishes a reduced impact on the environment. I suspect the term was incorrectly coined by climbing magazine editors in an effort to generate increased discussion.

Word.

Climbing bolted routes on gear is cool, and great style (not as great of style as a ground up fa, but still pretty rad). But it is not traditional, and has nothing to do with low-impact environmental consciousness. I wish that stupid "greenpoint" term would just die.

The term "green" point is incorrectly used and has been since Climbing or whoever published it first. For a proper "green" point, one must first smoke a fat bowl and then send the route.

Ian Cavanaugh wrote:For a proper "green" point, one must first smoke a fat bowl and then send the route.

~ While wearing hemp clothing, using a hemp cord, thumping Bob Marley's "Legalize It" on the crag blaster, and ONLY while the belayer chows on double-stuff Oreo's.
Oh, and said stoners pushed their Prius to the cliffs while wearing recycled flip flops.
That would definitely be a Greenpoint.

In Sedona we have a few lines with bolts near thin cracks/seams. One of these is a stellar mixed route that was lead only with gear, skipping bolts, with no falls. The leader had previously climbed it with the bolts.

Another good climber tried to onsight the crux pitch with gear only, fell and ripped seveal pieces falling beyond his belayer headfirst. He was fine, the rock was damaged. His response: "After this experience, I understand why the bolts were placed. The rock is quite soft, and even equalized placements blow out on finger-sized pieces. For the sake of preserving this beautiful route for people to climb for decades, I think leading it on gear is perhaps an irresponsible choice. I will be returning to redpoint the pitch, but will be clipping the bolts next time. It isn't worth marring the route, especially for onsight attempts, which have a good chance to leading to more falls.

Sonny Trotter

I think what Caroline did would be considered a headpoint.

CJC wrote:Peter Tosh wrote 'Legalize It'

Correct.
I meant Bob Marley's October 1975 National Stadium, Kingston Jamaica Live version with Peter Tosh and Bunny Wailer.
It's a full 7 min. long song (2mins more hang time than Tosh's standard cut).
:-p

I think it's pretty inspirational when bolts are skipped and the route is done in the traditional manner. Here is one of my favorites:

Didier Berthod on "Greenspit"