Edelrid Mega Jul

Edelrid Mega Jul:

I picked up a Mega Jul this morning and thought I'd post some thoughts and pictures. I'll update this with some more feed back as I use it.

Initial thoughts:

The Mega Jul is small, very small actually. If you've used a Mammut Smart or Alpine Smart the Mega Jul is probably 1/3 the size and weighs 2.5 ounces. The finish of the Mega Jul is pretty raw compared to a Reverso 3/4 or ATC-G.

As far as function, the Mega Jul feeds rope in and out with almost zero restriction. The Alpine Smart can be finicky with larger ropes requiring a harder pull, that is not the case with the Mega Jul. I ran a fuzzy 10.5, 9.5, and new'ish 9.8 through the Jul and there was no real difference. I haven't rapped with the Mega Jul yet but I did set up a rope to hang from, and when using a caribiner as the instructions show, releasing the device is pretty smooth.

Also worth noting is that the Mega Jul seems less sensitive to caribiner selection. Using a Metolius Element with the Alpine Smart creates a lot of focused wear and is kind of a PITA to connect. The Mega Jul sets up just like a traditional tuber.

redpointclimbing.com/shop/b…

I paid retail for the belay device and don't work for any companies mentioned.

Update:

Climbed a few pitches on the Mega Jul here is how it handles and stacks up against the Mammut Alpine Smart:

As I mentioned, feeding the rope in and out is very easy. My wife doesn't care for the Smart because it has more drag than her ATC and locks up too easily. I don't notice the drag on the Smart but I did notice the Mega Jul needs a hand on the brake to lock when the Smart will just lock up. Your hand should be on the rope anyway but it's still a consideration.

IMO, one of the best features of the Smart is how easily it is to pull in rope belaying a second/third off the anchor. Rope size does not matter unlike a Reverso 3 or ATC-G.

The Mega Jul isn't bad belaying from an anchor. Rope size does matter though, the 10.5 I ran through it had a lot of drag. The 9.8 I tried is pretty new with just a handful of pitches and worked great. Still more drag than the Alpine Smart but less than a Reverso 3.

Rapelling in auto-block mode took a little getting used to. Still easier than a Alpine Smart but quirky none the less. I started with a prusik back up to take the picture but it was a pain in the ass so after the photo I removed it. Using a caribiner as a handle and one hand on the brake strands gives a pretty effortless rap. The prusic isn't necessary. For short raps or low angle raps using the Mega Jul as a tuber is easier.
I didn't take a pictures but I rap'd the last two pitches to the ground using it as a tuber. There is less friction than an ATC so you need to be more careful but it is faster than using the auto-block on low angle terrain. On a two rope overhang rap like Monkey-Face the auto-block is ideal.
The Megal Jul does not seem to conduct heat. The device was cold while the caribiner was hot. I'm sure the internal surfaces of the device were hot but nothing from the outside.

Would be cool to try one of these and see how the SS holds up, pretty sure it'd be amazing. Also how it marks the rope vs alum

Anyone want to buy my Mammut Smart alpine?

Pretty sure I'll upgrade to one of these now.

Thanks for posting this, Ray... I've been thinking about one of those.

John Marsella wrote:Ray, what is the function of the strangely shaped plastic covered aspect of the retainer wire? Is it just a comfy place for your hand to rest?

http://vimeo.com/53332541

John Marsella wrote:Ray, what is the function of the strangely shaped plastic covered aspect of the retainer wire? Is it just a comfy place for your hand to rest?

The plastic thumb loop serves the same function as the long hook on the Mammut Smart, it disengages the auto lock feature. You place your thumb through the loop and pull it outward to release the rope.

Let us know how it handles! Very interested in picking one of these up.

John Marsella wrote:Seems somewhat complicated to use (initially) but the amount of options it offers looks good.

I updated the OP with more pictures and comments. It is slightly more complicated than a Reverso 3/4 but once you get it figured out it's simple. It works exactly the same as a Smart.

Hi Ray, thanks for the review, it's very helpful.

When rappelling in auto-block mode, is it possible to use it like an Alpine Smart, i.e. hook your thumb in the plastic thumb loop and release tension on the device in that fashion (without needing an extra biner as a "lever")?

Ray Pinpillage wrote: The Megal Jul does not seem to conduct heat. The device was cold while the caribiner was hot. I'm sure the internal surfaces of the device were hot but nothing from the outside.

lol pretty sure SS conducts heat :P. I'm no ME but my guess is that the SS does a better job of dissipating the heat.

NorCalNomad wrote: lol pretty sure SS conducts heat :P. I'm no ME but my guess is that the SS does a better job of dissipating the heat.

Aluminum conducts heat better than steel. Aluminum's thermal conductivity is around 220 and Stainless Steel is around 16.5. Obviously SS does conduct heat but it didn't seem to conduct heat from the contact surfaces inside to the outside surface of the device during a 30 meter rappel.

Jon H wrote:Hi Ray, thanks for the review, it's very helpful. When rappelling in auto-block mode, is it possible to use it like an Alpine Smart, i.e. hook your thumb in the plastic thumb loop and release tension on the device in that fashion (without needing an extra biner as a "lever")?

I didn't try it today but will tomorrow.

Ray Pinpillage wrote: Aluminum conducts heat better than steel. Aluminum's thermal conductivity is around 220 and Stainless Steel is around 16.5. Obviously SS does conduct heat but it didn't seem to conduct heat from the contact surfaces inside to the outside surface of the device during a 30 meter rappel.

Sweet.

The fact that it has to be levered away from the harness with the brake hand in order to pump out slack means that it will have the same drawbacks as the Smart for handling half ropes.

Although heavier, bulkier, and pricier, the Alpine Up is probably still the best device for half ropes.

When can I buy one of these?

Davis Stevenson wrote:When can I buy one of these?

This is the only place I know of that has them.

redpointclimbing.com/shop/b…

Ray Pinpillage wrote: This is the only place I know of that has them. redpointclimbing.com/shop/b…

Thanks!

My gym is an Edelrid dealer, too... I'll see what kind of timeframe it'll be before they have them here.

Hey Ray,
Awesome Post with a great review. Also Big thanks for mentioning Redpoint. I already got a phone order from someone in Fort Collins.

Thanks,
Eric

is it just me or is your smart alpine not set up properly for belaying from the anchor?

superkick wrote:is it just me or is your smart alpine not set up properly for belaying from the anchor?

Just you. You actually need to read the directions on the Smart before using it.

It would still work the other way, but pulling slack would be a bitch.

Look at the Mega Jul also - its basically clipped in upside down during autoblocking.

superkick wrote:is it just me or is your smart alpine not set up properly for belaying from the anchor?

Just you.