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Geshidos for trad?

Original Post
GhaMby Eagan · · Heaven · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 385

I have yet to find the Geshidos in my size (13-14) to actually try on, but they sound like evolvs version of the miura which I think is a great trad shoe, but they don't come big enough for multi-pitch climbing unless I pull em off at every belay.

Anyone been able to compare the two shoes?

TJ Esposito · · San Diego, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 110

Fell my way up Cloud Tower in RR wearing them (velcro versions; unlike the Miura, the lace and velcro Geshidos are supposedly the same last).

Very comfortable, I wear my street shoe size and they're pretty neat, slight downturn shape that bends flat easily though, versatile for sport and trad. Also, the toe comes to a pretty slim point so they fit into finger-size cracks more easily than the TC Pro.

rging · · Salt Lake City, Ut · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 210

For boating or climbing?

TJ Esposito · · San Diego, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 110

Got the latest Climbing in the mail yesterday, there are at least three pics with people climbing trad or mixed climbs in Geshidos, starting with Steph Davis on the cover.

GhaMby Eagan · · Heaven · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 385

TJ: how do you suggest sizing for multipitch trad? Street size, +/-???

Rob Lilley · · Greensboro, NC · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 85

There's a good review of the Geshido's over on UKC which is worth a read to compare the lace vs velcro, here: ukclimbing.com/gear/review.…

Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,245

What is the difference between a trad shoe and a sport shoe? I thought the type of shoes you wear depended on the kind of rock you're climbing, not how it's protected.

GhaMby Eagan · · Heaven · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 385

When I think of 'trad' I think of at least a few hundred feet of climbing, preferably on splitter cracks that require a lot of jamming. Therefore I want a shoe that is comfortable without being baggy or sloppy. For sport I like a tighter fit, but I don't want my toes curled if I have them in the crack.

Salamanizer Ski · · Off the Grid… · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 21,424

Just wore out the pair I had. I only bought them because they were on sale for 50 bucks at Sports Chalet and needed something cheap for the gym. Turned out to be a pretty quality edger with a decent amount of stiffness to support your toes. My toes are fukked from years of hand drilling bolts while standing on dime edges so that support was much appreciated.
I like them better than the TC pros for cracks. Hand sized cracks and offwidths, no! TC's all the way, but for thin offhand, finger and thin edgy stuff they blow the TC's away. They seem to be a wider shoe than some so if you got narrow feet like I don't, then you might want to pay attention to that when trying them on.

The store didn't have my normal size, 10 to 10.5 but I tried on a size 9 anyway and they fit like a glove. Waz up wid that??? I'd try them on before buying.

I like the 5.10 Galileo's better for hard thin cracks, slab, edging, pretty much everything but they are narrower and not as supportive on my midget digits. If your toes aren't a problem and you got mid to narrow feet, try the Galileo's. The rubber is way better, lasts way longer and the toes are narrower for thin seams.

Evolv makes a similar shoe that's a lace-up or is just a lace-up version of the Geshido, don't remember or care enough to try but it looks similar and lace-up for trad is definitely the way to go.

If you can't find a shoe in your size, contact the company directly. I'm sure they will send a pair for you to try on, maybe even a couple and more than likely pay for the return shipping if they don't.

Ryan Williams · · London (sort of) · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,245
sweagan wrote:When I think of 'trad' I think of at least a few hundred feet of climbing, preferably on splitter cracks that require a lot of jamming. Therefore I want a shoe that is comfortable without being baggy or sloppy. For sport I like a tighter fit, but I don't want my toes curled if I have them in the crack.

But you live in Bishop. When I trad climb in the UK it rarely means splitter cracks. More like a lot of smearing and slopers, or a lot of crimps, pinches and techy face climbing. Can be anywhere from 50 to 300 feet.

While I agree with you about what you look for in shoes, you aren't really talking about trad versus sport. What you are talking about is single pitch versus multipitch, crack versus face, and different degrees of steepness. Those are the factors that determine what shoe you wear, not how you protect the route.

TJ Esposito · · San Diego, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 110

Everyone needs to post pics of their feet when posting about shoes. Then we know what we're dealing with. Would be a pretty fugly thread though...

Fan Y · · Bishop/Las Vegas · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 1,093

geishidos (laces) are excellent trad shoes imo. low profile, excellent all-around performance, great sensitivity...if they fit your feet, that is.

GhaMby Eagan · · Heaven · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 385

YO!

Part of why I'm asking is because I'm looking for something similar to the Miuras that hopefully fits a size bigger than the largest that they make (46), the other part is that the geshidos are on sale all over the interwebs in a size 13.5. I'm trying to find out if I can expect them to fit my foot tight at that size. From what I'm hearing it apears as though all of you have very varying opinions on how they fit.

Also I have a pair of Five Ten Galileos and I do not think the fit is narrow, I also don't think they fit into thin cracks well, but both of these issues are likely due to me wearing a size 13 where climbing shoe mfrs. start screwing up the toe box of shoes! I do love my galileos on vertical-techy routes, nothing edges as well while still being comfortable!

Maybe I'll start shooting pics of my feet in various situations so that TJ can start a blog on climbers feet, maybe a stone-feet calendar???

Salamanizer Ski · · Off the Grid… · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 21,424
Jake Jones wrote: I'm not calling bullshit outright, but I have a hard time believing this.

Well, you gotta pay for them first. Then they'll more than likely pay for shipping if you need to go up or down a size.

I bought a pair of shoes from Acopa a while back. Was looking for a 10 maybe 10.5. I paid for a pair and they sent two with a pre-paid box to ship back which ever pair didn't fit. Who knows if Evolve will do the same as Acopas customer service was legendary.

But I'd suspect if Evolve had any customer service qualities at all they would at least ship you out a pair you paid for and cover all shipping costs should the pair not fit and you needed to do an exchange. Especially for a somewhat hard to find borderline custom size clown shoe like dude needs.

Try calling them, I bet you're taken care of in under 5 minutes.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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