Grand in a day

Are we crazy? We're 50-some year old climbers, yet we're considering a climb of the Grand Teton in a single shot. We'll be in pretty good shape, non of us are crippled yet, but is this too much to bite off?

Which route?

It's a loooong day and the weather can jump up quickly. I've done it both car-to-car and with a campsite at the Caves. Suffice to say, the Caves experience involved much less Type-2 fun.

A lot more info is needed before anyone can even attempt to answer your question. And even then, internet responses are notoriously unreliable. But if you seriously want a bunch of internet wankers (myself included) to assess you're ability to climb the Grand in a day, I'd at least answer the following..

• What's your climbing experience?
• At what altitude to do you live?
• How long does it take your party to climb a 5.6 pitch in an alpine environment?
• Are you comfortable simul-climbing?
• What route are you planning on climbing? If the Exum, both Lower and Upper?
• Have you ever climbed a grade IV in a day?

As Mark said there are a lot of factors that will impact this situation. But i can tell you how long it took me.

I did upper exum only. We were a group of 7 with 3 teams and half the group were beginner climbers but in good shape. We camped 4 miles in. Were hiking towards the route by 3am. Got to the roped climbing by ealry morning. We summited and made the descent to our camp by 4pm. Packed up camp and hiked back to the car by 8pm. Now my group was definitely slow, but however you do it, it will be a very long car to car day for the average mortal.

30 hrs. Estes Park to Estes Park via the upper exum.

justin dubois wrote:30 hrs. Estes Park to Estes Park via the upper exum.

Was that supposed to be helpful or were you just bragging? Really I'm just teasing you....well sorta.

EDIT:
...though to be honest, 30 hrs. from Estes is a pretty nice accomplishment. I tried to do Sykes Sickle car-to-car from Santa Fe one summer when I had a day off and half off. Almost made it too until my partner snoozed at the wheel for a second on the way home and we ended up with a flat tire outside of Pueblo, CO at 3 am. I ended up missing the first shift of my job at 6 am, but made it back for the second shift later in the day. Ahhh to be 22 and stupid again.

Done it in about 12 hours. Definitely doable although the doing an overnight up there in Gannett would be pretty sweet

I spent more time sitting in my tent than climbing on GT. I would've gone car to car if I had known how fast I was going to go, and it sure sucks hauling camp in. But I considered camping my summit insurance.

Last month, two friends and I did Mt. Owen via the Koven route in a day. Took 22 hours car-to-car, mostly because it require 10 rappels. This route is a bit harder than Owen-Spaulding on grand, so it's definitely doable, but be prepared for an epic.

For my first time up the grand, I took a friend who was less than an experienced climber. We were able to go car to car in 16:30hrs. We took the upper exum route, got off route a few times and lucked out with a great weather window. All in all, not to bad and very do able if you are in good hiking shape and can keep moving. I you take a technical route, try to use as few of belays as possible as pitching it out will slow you down. I say go for it and try hard! Oh and your ganna die!!

Thomas Dickey wrote:We're 50-some year old climbers, yet we're considering a climb of the Grand Teton in a single shot.

Go for it.

Plenty of folks do it car-to-car. Easier than messin' with a permit, luggin' heavy campin' gear, etc.

Just be realistic about the miles, the vertical gain, and, if you've never climbed in the park before, the routefinding. If its your first go on the Grand, consider the O-S as it climbs fast and you can reverse it quickly if need be.

Also be aware that its been raining mid afternoon, so, do the math to put you on the top before noon if possible.

If you run out of juice, you can always just pass out near the trail for a few hours to recharge.

J. Albers wrote: Was that supposed to be helpful or were you just bragging? Really I'm just teasing you....well sorta.

He asked if it was doable in a day. it is.
we were trying for 24, and its way doable, but I won't Hijack the thread any more.

@Nick, its 8hrs each way

Go for it Tom, and keep an eye on them thunderheads!

Thanks for the comments everyone. I realize now that more information is needed for you to judge completely, but it sounds pretty doable. Marc - we're all pretty fair climbers with moderate alpine experience. Our leader has done the Upper Ex several times - I've done it once - but all have been with a camp on the saddle. I see our main problem being our elevation - we're lowly Nebraskans! Hopefully, we can take a few days before the actual start to acclimate.
We'll just take off and watch the weather (and crash by the trail if need be!

Tom