DL speed challenge/ after party at group camp Saturday, July 21st

Devil's Lake Climbers: I have the group camp (Site G2) reserved for Saturday July 21st. I was hoping to do something fun considering there is 20 spots to fill at the campsite. We would like to get a group of climbers together that morning, draw names from a hat, and do some rock climbing with a randomly chosen partner. Routes climbed will be tallied for points. Followed by beer drinking and climbers spray at the campsite afterwards.

We are hoping to get climbers with lead climbing experience to come out and climb with some one new for a day.

If you are not comfortable leading, but are a competent climber and lead belayer, exemptions will be made.

(IF we have to we will draw names from two separate hats: Lead climbers and climbers)

I have room for at least 12 people to camp that night and about 4 total vehicles.

Camping will be dished out to first come first serve.

If your interested in climbing with us that day and or want to reserve a spot at the group camp please leave a message on here or you can email me at Strongv03@gmail.com

I will also create a Facebook event, but probably not until later tonight. I will post a link to that page accordingly.

Josh Knapp wrote up a " Rule Sheet" and it reads as follows.

1st Annual
Devil’s Lake Route Point Challenge

Rules.

Overview:

Where: Devil’s Lake Wisconsin. Group Camp (Near CCC trail on East Bluff) Site #

When: Saturday July 21st, 2012. Competition starts at 10am and stops at 5pm. Please get there at least 30 min early to be present for a partner drawing and a quick briefing

What: The goal of this competition is to accumulate as many “Route Points” as possible. Route points are accumulated based on several factors; route difficultly, style (i.e. lead or top-rope), and completion. The best style is on lead with no falls. More on scoring below.
Each climber will have a partner selected at random. Exceptions will be made if a team is without a member with the necessary equipment and/or expertise. In this case a simple redrawing of a partner will occur.
The comp will start promptly at 10am from the group camp. Climbers may climb anywhere in the park, but must return to the group camp by 5pm for their scores to be counted.

Scoring: Route Points are base on route difficulty, style, and completion. The route difficulty correlates with route points in the manor. A route only counts one time toward your route points. However, if one climbs a route more than once the highest route point value will count. Ex. A top-rope ascent of Thoroughfare 5.11a, with a fall would only count as 3.5 RP’s. A no –falls lead after a top-rope will result in 14 points.
Grade Route Points Grade Route Points Grade Route Points
5.0 1 5.10b 11 5.11d 17
5.1 1 5.10c 12 5.12a 18
5.2 2 5.10d 13 5.12b 19
5.3….ect 3 5.11a 14 5.12c 20
5.9 9 5.11b 15 5.12d 21
5.10a 10 5.11c 16 5.13a 22

Leads vs Top-rope: Climbers who lead will obtain full route point value. Climbers who top-rope routes will only acquire 50% of the route points available.

Send vs Fall: An climber who falls on a route will only acquire 50% of route points available to them. Multiple falls will incur no further point deduction, however one must summit an attempted climb with no points of aid to obtain any route points. Ex. A lead of Sometimes Crack (5.10a) with a take, will result in 5 route points. A T.R. of the same route with a fall will results in 2.5 route points. (10rp x .5tr x .5fall). A Yo-Yo ascent will count for full point value. A Yo-Yo ascent is defined as an ascent when a fall occurs on lead, the leader lowers to the ground, then top-ropes to the highest piece, and sends on lead from there.

Best Climb Scoring: The higher route point total of each team will be taken, but both climbers must attempt the climb. Ex. A T.R. ascent of Acid Rock (5.12a) by partner #1, and a failed ascent (no summit) by partner #2 will result in 9 route points.

R, X ratings: Leading an R rated route will result in +1 bonus route point.
An X rated climb will results in +2 route points. Beware! A fall may mean more than a deduction in route points!

Solos: Routes soloed won’t be counted toward total.

Route Point discrepancies: Route points with be determined by the grade of the climb in the most recent addition of Sven’s guide to devil’s lake. R/X ratings will be determined by Mountain Project consensus if a safety rating is not listed in the guide book.

Awards:

Bragging rights and a cold beer.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AuA8GfeNCwkLdFp4Rk5BcG1wbWpUS0VWVHJ1QWpuS1E#gid=0

Scorecard Example. (copy and paste the link)

The scoring might seem confusing, but if you come and fill out the card some one competent (Josh Knapp) will help tally up and total your points.

We have one more rule when we do DL Marathons: if you have to go the the Emergency Room, you are DNF and have no points.

Sounds fun, wish I was going to be in town.

Hey Ryan.

Count me in for this. It sounds like alot of fun.

One question about the rules? Do the rules require that the belayer follows the route on second? Just wondering.

Burt Lindquist

You should clear up your intention, Ryan.

It looks to me like, for any given route, only one climber earns points for the team: whichever has the stronger performance.

Yet the rules require both members of the team to "attempt" the route. Seems like if the second stepped up onto the route and "failed" (stepped back to the ground) within a few moves, the team could move on quickly and still have full points?

I don't think that is the intent here? (edit:) I guess I would specify that the second must ascend the route "by whatever means necessary."

And what if the "comp" starts with an odd number of climbers?

(note: the Park's working policy is that informal "comps" like this do not require any special permission, but a formal comp would require a permit. It is not totally clear where the line between informal and formal should be drawn.)

Also, this will not be the first annual but the inaugural event. I wish I were there because I would climb the weakest and spray the hardest!

Sounds fun but there should be a mechanism to account for how much fuk -news you consume before,during and after each lead and tr. Also taking into account what type of swill or jacknes you are consuming and if there are any other fuk-nes,s involved....extra points if you puke also! Peace and f-nes. Steve S.

Doug, Burt. I hear what you guys are saying for the 2nd climber. And as far as resolving it I am open to any suggestions. Josh is in Yosemite right now but should be back any day now, hopefully he will be able to clarify the "rules" better.

In the event of having a odd number of climbers ( which im sure will happen) I will remove my name from the hat and I'll just shoot photos all day.

Spread the word to the hoofers, campsites are definAtly availible.

I'm hoping create a Facebook event for it tonight , and I'll post a link to it on here.

Hopefully doing that we can have a better idea of attendance.

I guess the second would just recieve points for a TR ascent under the above rules I am guessing after thinking about it twice (and more in-depth) time....

Steve Sangdahl wrote:Sounds fun but there should be a mechanism to account for how much fuk -news you consume before,during and after each lead and tr. Also taking into account what type of swill or jacknes you are consuming and if there are any other fuk-nes,s involved....extra points if you puke also! Peace and f-nes. Steve S.

Spoken in true club style.
Sounds like a great plan but I've got a family wedding to attend that weekend so I'm out totally.

Man this sounds like a blast and a great way to meet some other fellow Dl climbers.

Unfortunately I have to go to a family event that day =/ You kids have fun.

http://www.facebook.com/events/377733568960926/

Link to "Facebook event" feel free to invite whomever

So how'd it go?