Rainier via Kautz Glacier

Hey MP,

I'm headed up Rainier right before Labor Day weekend next month. I'll be going with 3 other gentlemen, two who have pretty extensive alpine climbing/rescue experience, WEMT, etc...

I am probably the least experienced, but have spent substantial time in the backcountry with some limited alpine climbing (no idea how to glacier rescue for instance) and zero experience ice climbing any real grade.

What should I expect to experience on this climb and what should I focus on learning/practicing in the 6 weeks ahead of me? Is this climb anything to worry about?

Thanks for the insight MP!

Have you ever used crampons, an ice axe or practiced self-arrest? Learning those things would be a good start.

Ever kicked steps in the snow? Another thing to practice.

Crevasse rescue knowledge is also helpful.

Have you read, "Mountaineering - Freedom of the Hills"? If not, you should.

Don't know what your snow travel experience is, so I thought I'd suggest those things. Have fun.

Thanks!

Only messed around with crampons, and self arresting, no serious practice. Also, living in Virginia at the moment so it will be difficult to practice. Kicking steps in, I've done that.

Living in Virginia it might be hard to practice those things but I'll definitely pick up the book.

I have glacier travel experience but in retrospect it was probably ignorant/dangerous, and not at all steep.

If your friends have extensive experience, they will be essentially guiding you and shepherding you through this. Hopefully, they will give you some minimal instruction, too.

For example, what it means to move your ice ax when you are "in balance."

Or how to properly use the French technique for walking in crampons.

And how to hold an ice ax and use it in different terrain. These are covered in that book I recommended, but some practice would be advised.

In addition to reading, work on your cardio. Legs and lungs is what gets you up big peaks. Rainier is a serious and a big mountain. I suggest two types of cardio workouts - one is typical running or treadmill type work, and two - just as important if not more important, is carrying a heavy backpack up hill - either on a hike, stairs - wherever you can find a vertical training ground. I would typically train with 50 to 60 pound packs. Carry rocks or water on the uphill - dump the weight to save the knees and the body coming back down.

Also work on your equipment. You want to go up there with good gear, but not overburdened with too much sht. Lightweight approach, within reason, the best approach.

I have summited Rainier via the Emmons, Kautz Glacier Icefall route, and Liberty Ridge. It is an unbelievably cool mountain. Hope you have a great experience. Wally

I did Kautz last year, it is a big time route if you are just starting. It's an intermediate route but if you dont know the basic you will be over your head. The climbing is harder than you think. Check out SummitPost. Just my opinion, take it for what it is worth.

Came down the Kautz 6 days ago. The 50 degree (rotten) ice pitch certainly wouldn't be fun without ice experience. Worst case you should go find a big dead tree and climb around it with crampons/axes.

Note: downclimbing sucks. It probably would have been a lot of fun going up. We went up the Fuhrer Finger.