Futura or Shaman???

I am looking for a new pair of top of the line bouldering shoes. Between La Sportiva's Futura and Evolv's Shaman, out of climbers who have used either shoes, which ones would people advise to get?

Big fan of the Shamans...on my second pair. They fit my higher volume foot better than almost any other shoe I've worn in 20+ years of climbing, and perform better than any other shoe also. Great for heel hooking and overhanging routes, but also surprisingly well for edging and slabby climbs too. Make sure to try them on before you buy though, especially if you have a narrow foot. Some folks with narrow feet have told me that there is too much empty space for them in the Shamans, and others with narrow feet claim they climb just as well as the Solutions (which even the biggest size wont fit my foot). I have no experience with the Futuras though, so cant help you there.

Solutions...a friend has the Futuras and says the toe is similar but the heel just isnt as tight. Never tried the Shamans but Evolvs rubber doesnt compare to Sportivas in my opinion.

whatever fits your foot ... doesnt matter what anyone here says if it dont fit

FUTURAS!!! Depends on what you are looking for. The Sharman's are actually quite a sung fit and tend to fit low volume feet just fine. The biggest difference is that Sportiva uses the no-edge technology (pretty much achieved through slip lasting) which gives a much more sensitive and precise feel. I have been rocking these sweet rigs coming on three months and DEFINITELY feel that they have improved my footwork and foot awareness (no more getting away with standing on a platform, you gotta actively push and place.) They are also ridiculously comfy for a high performance shoe.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D1y7KMtniAc

The Shaman has a more traditional aggressive offset and camber similar to other high performance shoes, like the Solution or Testarossa in the LaSportiva fleet. Just depends on what you are looking for...

Try em both and and see which feel better. You know what they say, if the shoe fits...

Good luck

Make sure to try on the Shamans first if you chose to get them. Evolve sizes tend to be bigger than other shoe brands.

Wow you guys went a whole week without a shoe question!!!

JonathanHillis wrote:Wow you guys went a whole week without a shoe question!!!

What gear would you like to discuss??? Climbing shoes make the biggest difference to climbing than any other gear.

Jake Jones wrote:Yeah, except for ropes, shells, packs, draws, cams, nuts and harnesses. Shoes are right up there.

True, I always fall off of climbs because my harness wasn't the right tool for the job. We already know the answer to all of those questions:

Ropes: Sterling or Mammut (unless you're poor maybe edelrid or whatever is on sale this week).

Packs: Mistery Ranch (BD if you like to replace your pack every year).

Shells: Whichever one fits and costs the least

Draws: For Sport;Petzl Spirits on one side of a Petzl dogbone and DMM Spectre 2 on the rope end, for Trad; whatever lightweight biner and spectra sling you can find cheapest.

Nuts: Whichever is cheapest, but probably DMM.

Harnesses: Misty Mountain; Turbo if you like fixed leg loops and Cadillac if you like a million gear loops, Yates Astroman if you are a bigwaller.

sweagan wrote: We already know the answer to all of those questions: Ropes: Sterling or Mammut (unless you're poor maybe edelrid or whatever is on sale this week). Packs: Mistery Ranch (BD if you like to replace your pack every year). Shells: Whichever one fits and costs the least Draws: For Sport;Petzl Spirits on one side of a Petzl dogbone and DMM Spectre 2 on the rope end, for Trad; whatever lightweight biner and spectra sling you can find cheapest. Nuts: Whichever is cheapest, but probably DMM. Harnesses: Misty Mountain; Turbo if you like fixed leg loops and Cadillac if you like a million gear loops, Yates Astroman if you are a bigwaller.

Thanks for your personal opinions. To bad there is plenty of gear out there and you came off sounding like a know it all.

Will the Futuras, with their no-edge technology, lend themselves well to resoling?

What about the 5.10 team?