North Carolina climbing help

Headed to NC in a couple weeks to visit family and had a couple questions. I have family in the Charlotte area and the Greensboro area. If you only had 1 day to climb where would you go? Also, what would a standard rack include for that area. I've been sport climbing around 5.9 lately, but would prefer to find more moderates. My partner is more into the 5.7-5.8 range. Thanks for your help. Don't really care if it's toprope, trad, or sport. Just can't go for a week without climbing.

I would head up to Stone Mountain for some good ole NC granite slabbin. super classic and lots of routes at your grade as long as you don't mind run-out low angle climbin. It may be too hot though; the classic routes all face south so check the forecast.

in which case go to Moores wall. shady north facing overhung quartzite. a few moderates, but bring yer trad skillz. no sport routes to speak of.

other wise there is Crowders, which is closest but also kinda crowded and not as classic as Stone or Moores.

you can get by without a huge rack in NC. One of everything up to #3 camalot + doubles of your favorite pieces should do. in fact at Stone you hardly need any rack at all!

I dunno why everyone recommends Stone. I lived in NC for 7 years and only climbed there once on a rope. I sort of see the appeal, but personally I thought it kinda sucked. If you like "regular" climbing, aka using your arms at all and placing pro more than every 70', you should avoid that place. Plus it will be hot as hell. Go to Moores, which is also closer to your family destinations. 5.7-5.8 at Moores is amazing. Bring a rack of singles plus tricams (or doubles on cams) and you will be fine.

There are some good moderates on the south face of looking glass as well. From Charlotte it ends up being about 2 hours to either looking glass, stone or moore's.

DO NOT go to stone mountain. It is only tolerable when temps are below 50. Moore's is definitely the place for you. If you are going to be here in late June, you might also entertain some of the highcountry crags. Ship Rock and Hawksbill are approx. 2.5 hours from Charlotte, and stay cool when the rest of the state starts getting too warm. Crowder's is close to Charlotte, but only go there as a last resort.

I think the best stuff is going to be NW of the Charlotte area if you have time to make it there. Rumbling Bald and Ship Rock were my favorite areas, but I was already in the Asheville/Boone areas.

As I recall, Moore's has good climbing, Pilot Mtn has decent sport routes, Crowder's wasn't fun (for me anyway, don't remember why), and Pilot made me want to quit climbing altogether.

If you find yourself in the Denver area before your trip I have a couple NC guide books you'd be welcome to look at, borrow, photocopy.

dylan

Dylan Hettinger wrote:and Pilot made me want to quit climbing altogether.

• Stone Mtn, that is.

Moore's is your best option. It's only 45 min - 1 hour from Greensboro.

That helps narrow it down. Thanks for the input. We were thinking stone, pilot, or moore's wall. We will see what happens as the date gets closer. Out of curiosity, why don't people like pilot mountain?

Pilot is a popular crag to take large groups of inexperienced climbers due to easy top rope access, proximity to metropolitan areas and a nearly nonexistent approach. It's south facing and can get pretty hot in the summer. The rock quality is also mediocre. It honestly just gets too crowded. Pilot on a 50 degree January weekday can be pretty enjoyable.

Standard NC rack for moderates would be .3-3 BD size approximately, rack of nuts, tri-cams, and plenty of 2' runners. Moore's is awesome, but the 7's and above are steep and may feel sandbagged if you aren't used to it. I would say somewhere like Table Rock in Linville has way more moderates to romp on that aren't that steep, mostly slab, but there aren't as many classic climbs. It will be a lot cooler than Moore's as well. Not to mention the view of Linville Gorge is amazing! Ship Rock also has a days worth of moderate climbing and it is much more classic than TR. Either way, you will have fun at Moores or the Linville area.

right on. I grew up in the area and climbed there a few times as a kid, but have been in Colorado for about 12 years now. I'm looking forward to showing my girl some of the beauty of the Carolinas. Thanks for all of the input. We are used to climbing granite slabs out here in Colorado, so I am hoping it won't be too much of a learning curve. Looking forward to it. Should be good on the rack. I have about 1/2 dozen tri cams, C4's from 0.3-3 and about a set and a half of stoppers. Thanks again

Mike Smyth wrote:That helps narrow it down. Thanks for the input. We were thinking stone, pilot, or moore's wall. We will see what happens as the date gets closer. Out of curiosity, why don't people like pilot mountain?

I think you've been led astray my frined. Stone is great when you're feeling brave and when you have a craving for friction slab, but it's main appeal is how much of a sun trap it is in winter. DO NOT go there this time of year!

Just the thought of Pilot makes me want to puke. Enough said.

For exciting and unique trad on some of the best quality rock you'll ever touch, I can't recommend Moore's Wall enough. Plenty of 5.5 to 5.8 classics and likely perfect conditions this time of year. It is my favorite crag on earth. Period. If you need any info or any more convincing, please shoot me a PM.

PS, on the other hand, if you can make it to Linville or Looking Glass, they are stellar as well. Most of the climbing in NC is quality... I just didn't want you leaving the state having only been to Stone or Pilot :) Stone is quality climbing, but it's a niche and it's not the time of year. Pilot... well, it just sucks. For a lot of reasons.

Have a great trip and like I said, shoot me a message if you need any beta.

Thanks for the tip. I try to get out to NC every year, but it's usually around Christmas to see family. Happy to be getting out there this time of year and get on some rock and not sliding down icy passes. I will do my best to convince the others that Moore's wall should be the destination. Is there any sport there or is it all trad?

Mike Smyth wrote:Thanks for the tip. I try to get out to NC every year, but it's usually around Christmas to see family. Happy to be getting out there this time of year and get on some rock and not sliding down icy passes. I will do my best to convince the others that Moore's wall should be the destination. Is there any sport there or is it all trad?

Another vote for Moore's. There are a few very hard "sport" climbs... But there's enough ultra-classic 5.7-5.9 trad to have you planning your next trip back before your finish the first route ;) Enjoy!

"Hodadical Master" is a bolted 5.9 (first pitch) but it's not sport - quite spicy for the grade. I would recommend for you guys: the circus wall - Zoo View and Air Show.